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Future icon: Kuboraum X-Series mask: X10 and X11

Powerful asymmetric statement mask design by the Berlin-based creative label

In fashion, asymmetry is daring, whether for the cut of a neckline or the drape of a hem. In eyewear, the effect on the face is positively dramatic so much so that most of the great designers have tried it. Pierre Cardin was drawn to the concept in the 1960s in oversized styles with immeasurable wit (a square eye shape next to a circle), while iconic designers, from Silhouette to Mikli, Casanova to Cazal have all taken their turn to reinvent the frame with an asymmetric line or colour mix that completely challenges the norm.

This season, the Berlin designers at Kuboraum have created one of the eye-catchers of the year in their X-Series, taking a clean-cut, iconic shape and revitalising the shape in a new and progressive unisex mask, one that will be a reference for those who follow the fashion history of frames. Above: girl wears the unisex monochrome X11 – with asymmetric shape and colour scheme in white with smoke

Kuboraum: the all black matt version of the X11 mask

The X10 and X11 masks come in the form of asymmetrical silhouettes, oversized (X10) or slim and narrow (X11), played out in bold proportions with the accentuation of volume through a vertical sharp cut precisely which brakes up the shapes into two diverging levels of chunky 5mm and 7mm thick acetate. Each of the lenses is marginally offset to the other completing their dynamic statement. 

X11 by Kuboraum in Havana

X10 and X11 come as part of a Spring release that also embraces variety and diversity – and beautiful balanced colour. Highlights for collectors (as well as the above) will include the H92 mask, an acetate and metal ‘frame within a frame’ design with the authentic handcrafted traits of the Kuboraum style.

Kuboraum is one of the featured outstanding independent brands in the Eyestylist sunglasses bulletin, published this month – click on the link to read the features: https://www.eyestylist.com/eyestylist-trend-bulletin-issue-3/ Find out more about Kuboraum’s new concepts and current music and shop-in-shop activities at www.kuboraum.com

Sunglasses trends SS21 on our radar

Eyestylist TREND bulletin cover frame: a white retro beauty by LAPIMA, Brazil

Sunglasses trends are always inspiring and this year our imaginations have been caught by the most luxurious design direction and exciting new bright colours that lift the spirits. Highlighted in the sunglasses TREND bulletin several different directions in the independent collections were a focal point in a season that offers a wide choice of cool styles, immaculate design details and pick-me-up colours with which to fall in love. In 2021, the most striking hues are bright, bold and beautifully flattering for the face, not forgetting a palette of pretty pastel shades – for lenses as well as frames they might match. While the oversized shapes are stealing the space in the press, vintage-inspired designs are totally on trend, whatever the dimensions, with refreshed versions of cat eyes and narrow frames, as well as eccentric shapes or asymmetrics adding to the creative mix. Above: model Nina in natural white vintage – off white acetate with yellow lenses – www.lapima.com

To see what’s new, we’re delighted to extend our sunglasses content through Issuu…click on the thumbnail to read our insights and forecasts for what’s hot for the season of 2021 and beyond : www.eyestylist.com/eyestylist-trend-bulletin-issue-3/

Thomas Lafont

Behind the scenes with Thomas Lafont: SS2021 collection

The creative director/designer says that the 2021 Lafont Paris collection was crafted under extraordinary circumstances which prompted him to explore new perspectives.

Thomas Lafont, chief creative director and designer of the eponymous Parisian family-owned eyewear house, has taken his creative path into new realms in the last 12 months, as lockdowns and disruption required brand new ways to work and develop ideas. The designer told us that while it had been difficult to navigate this new environment initially, particularly when it came to introducing the collection to opticians, he had learnt to develop new ways to preserve the rhythm of his creative style.

“I am lucky that I was able to continue to work from my Paris studio even if I was by myself,” Thomas Lafont told Eyestylist. “In fact with no travel during this period, and not even the usual disturbances of everyday life that we encounter in more normal circumstances, I actually had more time to work on the collection. For me it represented an opportunity to do something different. Looking back it was quite a delicate and precise design concept – partly influenced by new forms of communication online and the inevitability of less feedback from outside in this unusual time – but in a way I experienced more freedom. It was very helpful for us through these last months that we have such a strong relationship and understanding with our manufacturing partner in the Jura here in France. We are also lucky that with lockdown our team adapted from one day to the next, this was impressive.”

New designs for SS2021: Harmonie by Lafont Paris – a fusion of stunning colours and patterns and a modern interpretation of Lafont’s signature ‘lace effect’ with flowers etched in metal – an innovative decoration that was dear to Thomas’ mother Laurence Lafont : Thomas looks for new ways to use it to express the classic charm and elegance of the signature style

The lack of trade fairs or any opportunity to provide an intimate ‘window’ on the image and mood of the Lafont world also prompted something new.  Thomas explains: “Since last April, I have used social media, and particularly Instagram, to express myself. Everything I used to do in terms of creative expression for the shows is now something I have developed through digital. This is interesting. It’s like a new tool of expression for who we are. It has definitely opened my mind. It’s very cool and I’ve found it surprisingly creative.”

Work in progress with new colours and new styles / Lafont Paris

For SS21, the  resulting frames are characterised by intriguing colorations and delicate shapes, and styles that are accessible, easy-to-wear with beautiful quality and bright and colorful design features. “I have worked on the shapes, always playing with colour,” says Thomas. “People want artistic design products from Lafont that are easy to fall in love with and a little bit different – unique style and passion are important too.”

Harriet by Lafont Paris: total elegance in a feather effect acetate

 

Heritiere by Lafont Paris: the model showcases the new ‘terrazzo’ pattern in the collection

Highlights in the line include an outstanding feather effect acetate and a ‘terrazzo’ pattern across several models, two details we asked Thomas to tell us more about. “What I like is the balance between the material and the way we see it. The ‘terrazzo’ has a natural look, and quite a special irregularity, and what was nice was to play on the shiny effects contrasting with the opaque. The light tones such as light pink are still really working together with a touch of black, it’s like the best natural tortoiseshell where you can have small black details next to little spots of brown. With the feather effect I was looking for sophistication and a really impressive 3d effect. The superimposed colour has an artistic feel. As a designer I don’t like to be limited in what I do! Not at all! I am always looking for a way to go out and away from limitations and constraints.”

The new collection is now available to view online at www.lafont.com – for more details about the company in Paris read about our visit to Lafont HQ at  https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/10/lafont-paris/ Clodagh Norton spoke to Matthieu and Thomas Lafont on Zoom in early 2021. All rights reserved

Jean-François Rey design: colour boost in acetate

Jean-François Rey’s JF 1497, glowing colour effects inspired by silk fibers and textured threads

Eyewear designer Jean-François Rey’s design acetate concepts explore the patterns and textured effects of fibers and threads. The husband and wife design team have pioneered creative concepts in metal and acetate since the 1990s. They continue to play with colour and design possibilities in eyewear, inspired by the arts, and everything else they love! For their recent models in acetate, a personal passion for fabrics and textiles has translated into studies in pairing colours, transparencies and linear details. The frames come in elegant shapes such as hexagons and ovals and capture a chic and glowing tonal effect and sheen. This adds Spring-infused radiance and style. Above: the JF 1497 is available in a range of delicate combination colours including the light brown with blue pairing (pictured above).

 

Jean-François Rey design – JF 1497 in light brown with blue (above) and gradient pink with brown lace (below)

Jean-François Rey JF 1497 comes from a series of acetates with elaborate colour schemes and patterned effects. The Jean-François Rey designs for women feature delicate colours with rich graduated effect. A leaning towards soft, pastel or powdery tones is evident here. The finishing touches such as the shaping of the temples and the metal flex hinge ensure sophistication and comfort for everyday wear. Find more of the Jean-François Rey design styles at the website: www.jfrey.fr

Mood-changers: Spring stripes are a new staple

Hairline, nautical, pencil or pin? Graphic stripes are always current, enhancing frame tones, adding surprise or brightening spirits.  A recurring theme for creative eyewear, this season a myriad of fresh new stripes with beautiful artistic colorations and amazing individuality add pattern and movement, colour and depth.

Above: from FACE A FACE, Bocca Pixies 1 – a sophisticated horizontal needle stripe effect on the Bocca Pixies, combined with the exciting Escher-inspired edging – creates a delicate feel of movement across the frame front – the transparent striped amber coloration is fresh, chic and subtly bohemian:  www.faceaface-paris.com/en/products/suns/bocca-pixies-1/?variant=transparentstripedamber

Kola by l.a.Eyeworks – unique mismatching – timeless tortoise has a different look when paired with playful horizontal stripes

For men and women, smarter, bolder glasses are the confidence boost that some have just discovered in our new world of working from home. An exciting colour combination, a mix and match design, or different striking styles of stripey acetate are therefore fresh and bold for Spring – and bring polish to a look. For men, and a cool new way to wear your stripes, l.a.Eyeworks’ model Kola balances timeless tortoise with a hint at horizontals  – like a tailored suit enlivened by a pin-stripe shirt. The frame is defined by a strong angular shape with smart tailored edges. Find out more: www.laeyeworks.com

Girl 8025T by Lafont Paris – combining solid black and light and ‘airy’ striped crystal

Dipping into an archive of historic frames, the Girl 8025T at French design house Lafont comes from a tradition of exploring fabric and texture with special effect in sparkly crystal acetate paired with a defining black upper rim. The lightness of the stripey pattern gives it a glistening sheen that is feminine and luxurious and eye-catching when worn. www.lafont.com

The square-shaped Erika by Tree Spectacles from the Stripes Capsule: artistic and uniquely styled, the frame combines chic transparent crystal and a delicate stripey top in soft yellow, grey and black

At Tree a new capsule highlights vertical stripe detailing on the upper rims. The three new models in this series are characterised by a lightweight chic design with minimal lines and the characteristic decorative flourish which is modern and different. For more on this range visit www.treespectacles.com