Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 27th April 2022

RCA student Maria Nava wins at 100%

‘Spectral Objects’ recognised for innovative design combining a futuristic concept with modern making techniques and traditional craft

Maria Nava, a second year student studying Fashion – Wearable Technology, has won the RCA x 100% Optical competition in 2022. The competition asked the  students to reflect on the past “to see into the future”, using – specifically – repurposed acetate. The brief stated that the eyewear designs needed “to feel good and make us feel good, sexy, attractive, defining who we really are”. They pointed to fit, facial type, head measurements and relevant styles based on head size, prescription and context for the wearer and their lifestyle and habits.” All designs had to be made using the recycled acetate.

Nava’s design was characterised by a structure that fits over the head. The purpose of the artifact, explains the designer of the winning work, was to trigger conversations about our bodies, and question how our identity can morph, change and evolve in a direct relationship to contraction and expansion movements over a human face. The headpiece contracts and expands in three main areas, at the ears, nose and eyes. Freedom is given to the wearer to adjust or modify selected pieces in these three main areas. This allows each individual’s anatomy to fit in but also experience comfort and discomfort.

Maria Nava, RCA – the winner of the RCA x 100% competition in 2022

The designer achieved the flexible structures by combining traditional and modern making techniques such as 3D printing, CNC machining, painted gradients, sculpting and hand finishing.
Upcycled materials such as acetate sheets (from Algha), repurposed acrylic pieces and resins are used in the elaboration of the design piece. For more details about the artist: https://wip2022.rca.ac.uk/students/maria-fernanda-nava-melgar

This feature was written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved

  | Eyestylist 26th April 2022

Italian independent eyewear: Tree Spectacles

Contemporary. luxurious and minimal, by design

A dynamic brand that continues to propose a minimal Italian design style with intriguing, playful colours. The most recent Tree Spectacles collections include a balanced mix of materials, and most importantly Japanese titanium and Mazzucchelli acetate. A combination of pure titanium and beta titanium ensures a light and comfortable fit while a unique aesthetic is based on reflections and effects of light in specialised colours and modern combinations. In the acetate collections, Tree has evolved a subtle mix of materials where the bold and structured acetate front is combined with titanium temples. Above: Tree Spectacles uses fine quality Italian acetate from Mazzuchelli 1879

Tree Spectacles: bold constructions with shiny and matt surfaces

For MIDO 2022, the Italian optical trade fair which takes place this coming weekend, the Co-Founder of the brand, Marco Barp told Eyestylist that he is preparing to present four further models – two for men and two for women. The new styles expand on the current success of the collection at Tree. The women’s styles have a bold and striking look with thick acetate structures which frame the eyes.

“We have continued to introduce vibrant colours, with more transparent effects. For the first time we have introduced acetate temples on acetate fronts as normally we combine materials such as acetate with titanium. This is a new series with temples that have a strong fashion look always with a structured and yet minimal design aesthetic. The men’s models are real classics with a 70s look. Here we are also introducing full acetate for the first time  – and we have worked on a very particular finish with an artisanal execution that is really exclusive.”

Tree Spectacles: model Midas comes in some dramatic, super modern colour combinations as well as timeless colour mixes

“The 1970s forms and shapes are returning. We are developing ideas influenced by this direction. With Tree, we can present almost any type of shape while always being coherent with our philosophy of design. All our ideas, from the finishing and the colours, right through to the overall design, are presented according to our very particular view point…” Marco Barp, Co-Founder, Tree Spectacles

With its clean and minimalistic approach to design and strong Italian identity in terms of style and colour, Co-Founder Marco Barp expands on this coherent evolution of the collections, always respectful of the core values of Tree. “Our DNA is very much about a very modern approach with a minimal aesthetic and we continue on this path as we put out new products. We like everything to be very clean and we will continue to evolve this style occasionally adding very different flashes of colour or details that are inspired by the world of fashion. As Italians we are completely surrounded by the world of fashion …but we try to continue also to produce our ideas guided by a clean and minimal style. Our collections will evolve like this, even if we will introduce 1970s inspired designs – something we are already working on for the season ahead.”

On colour, we asked Barp to explain his current favourites in the collection. “I’m very enthusiastic about the brilliant colours for women like fuchsia and red, and certainly tones of lilac and pewter blue that we have introduced in recent collections… for men, we focus on a palette that is more subtle with dark blues, browns, and transparent grey or solid black. We also have some very distinctive opaque finishes that we will show this weekend in Milan.”

About Tree Spectacles – Marco Barp, Co-Founder of Tree Spectacles has grown up in a family of eyewear producers in Belluno, Italy. His first collection launched at MIDO in 2012, the result of intense R&D to create niche ‘Made in Italy’ products in layers of wood ‘sandwiched’ with carbon fibre – a design innovation which was quickly praised (and patented) for its lightness, comfort, flexibility, and unique beauty. Today the company produces a wide variety of collections including luxury and design series in titanium, beta titanium and cellulose and bio acetate. 

For more information about Tree Spectacles visit www.treespectacles.com

 

  | Eyestylist 20th April 2022

Cat’s eye …of the season!

l.a.Eyeworks cat’s eye Cowgirl – a feline beauty

Exceptional angles, keen edges, pointy corners, and a classically oriented inner eye shape: all the details of the Cowgirl offer a “sharply-tailored” design for ’22, as the cat’s eye frame shape gets a fresh vote of confidence as one of the staple looks for Spring. The frame is proposed in several different luxe patterns and deep, infused colours, each one conveying a particular mood and character, an edge with elegance, or a perfectly individualistic and alluring style.

“Although inventive variations of cateye designs are deeply ingrained in the house codes of l.a.Eyeworks,” notes Brent Zerger, Director of Communications, “the expressive, angular brow of Cowgirl performs an especially fancy rope trick of projecting both power and elegance.” Above: ad campaign featuring LA-based DJ and poet, Mia Moretti in the Cowgirl in colour “Comet” – Moretti is one of the latest faces to feature in the brand’s portrait campaign of artists, actors, activists and muses, from LA.

 

Cowgirl by l.a.Eyeworks – top, in the colour “Threads” and below in red “Bottle Rocket”

With so much history that has gone before, the Cowgirl cat’s eye pays homage (with respect) to the idiosyncracies of the iconic feline shape while also playing out a dramatic statement in contemporary colours and patterns which all come together in a powerfully provocative way. To get your hands on one of these styles, which, from what we hear, are already flying off shelves, find out details at http://www.laeyeworks.com/detail/cowgirl CN

  | Eyestylist 19th April 2022

The eighth edition of 100% Optical London

23rd to 25th April 2022 – ExCel London – extended opening times, from 9am

The long-awaited London fair , 100% Optical will take place this coming weekend at its usual venue, ExCel London after being postponed from dates earlier this year due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The fair promises a lively come-back for Spring, with a wide variety of new product categories, both fashion and technology, highlights in the sustainable and independent eyewear segments, the return of the Love Eyewear Awards, and the colourful 100% catwalk shows, sponsored this year by Transitions.

In the independent eyewear category, Eyestylist presents s selection of collections to help visitors navigate some of the best and most unique labels and creative ranges  showing from around the world at this event. Above: TREE Spectacles from Italy will be represented at the London fair for the first time – this independent brand produces their frames exclusively in Italy and Japan; the  frames are minimal, refined in their details, and propose a mix of bright, pastel and natural colours. www.treespectacles.com

Forsyth by Erker’s 1879

ERKER’s 1879, St Louis, Missouri, USA – Erker’s 1879 will be represented in London by the Erker’s family, Jack, John and their father –  the heritage brand from St Louis has an exciting history and is proud of its consistent approach to high-quality and timeless design. The collections this year propose a diverse and multi-colored collection with many elegant nature-inspired  and patterned acetates alongside the classic Erker’s metal frames which are slim, lightweight, and contemporary in form. https://erkers1879.com

Kirk & Kirk: colour and unique acrylic for eyewear

KIRK AND KIRK, UK – The bold shapes and colours at the UK independent label Kirk & Kirk are always a big attraction at the London show. Jason Kirk will be present to show Kaleidoscope and the vibrant Centiles, which combine two colours and a chunky “out-there” statement style. The frames are all made in custom acrylic, described as recyclable and custom made in France. www.kirkandkirk.com

Sustainable eyewear trends: the new Mikonos by Sea2see – the frame is made from 100% marine waste

SEA2SEE – Sea2see is a pioneer in the creation of circular  “seastainable” eyewear, producing stylish designs in Italy in 100% marine plastic collected by Sea2see through communities in Africa. A winner of the Optician Award in the UK for its Positano frame in 2020, Sea2see is already an established name in British optical stores, exhibiting that recycled, sustainable materials are key for the future – and can rival other materials in terms of their functionality and fashion style. Founder Francois Van Den Abeele will be at the fair in person. www.sea2see.org

Bird Eyewear from the UK – a new trendy olive tone for model Tawny – which features triple ply wooden temples and a bio-acetate front
BIRD EYEWEAR, UK – For 100% Optical, creator Ed Bird will be launching a new competitively priced bio-acetate range with “ultra-low carbon frames available in a number of classic styles and colours”. The brand has also added a number of vibrant new colourways in the Clarity collection, and will be showcasing their new Birdies range – plant based eyewear and sunglasses for kids, made from Castor seeds. www.findyourbirds.com
The Sunrise by Struktur – an iconic characterful design from the French brand

STRUKTUR, Normandy, France – A recent preview of the Struktur collection from Normandy in France – revealed wonderful developments in the colour palette which – using distinctive matt and shiny finishes – proposes statement neons in red, green, lilac and yellow. The bold architectural fronts are combined with sculpted temples in matching and contrasting tones.  The whole collection by Struktur offers an interesting exploration of French eyewear made in traditional ways and according to highly-skilled artisan traditions. For further details visit www.struktur-eyewear.fr

ANY DI from Germany – using repurposed leather materials from past collections – Suncover Ocean Diamonds

ANY-DI, Germany – Any-Di is a German accessories label with a signature case design that has become well-known in optical circles.  Their most recent collection is made entirely from recycled leather from previous ANY DI releases. Velour and nappa leather are set in an alternating patchwork pattern that creates the effect of waves.  Find out more about the collection at https://any-di.com

100% Optical will take place on 23rd, 24th and 25th April with a new opening time of 9am across the three days. A ribbon cutting ceremony at 9am on Saturday 23rd April will take place to welcome all exhibitors and visitors. 100% Optical’s Love Awards will be announced on 23rd April 2022. The shortlist can be viewed on the 100% website. The organisers have announced this week that the 100% Optical  fair will take place from 25th to 27th February in 2023. For more information about attending the 100% Optical event, visit the site at www.100percentoptical.com

  | Eyestylist 14th April 2022

Glasses trends: larger and bolder

A 1970s makeover in women’s eyewear brings back the XXL statement styles

Larger frames, thicker rims and an overall bold appearance, with geometric, playful details are in for 2022, as designers enjoy a celebration of eye-catching eyewear that draws attention to, and “frames”  the face. For women, the styles are based on the large oval or geometric multi-sided vintage designs with exciting structures. Above: a new campaign from JF Rey, featuring the JF1514, a frame with a strong 70s vibe, that illustrates the look that’s back in vogue

JF Rey 1514 – large and eye-catching in graduated colours

The model JF 1514 shows the way in which these graphic styles can now feel modern. An oversized and angular front is combined with chunky acetate temples in contrasting thicknesses. Rich graduated colours and transparencies, also inspired by the 70s, are featured with the occasional flash or glow of ultra modern neon (see top image). JF Rey is a French eyewear design company, with a wide selection of on-trend styles and colourful acetate frames. Find out more at www.jfrey.fr