Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 27th May 2021

Independent eyewear: classic shapes revived

Square, round, browline or aviator inspired…these four shapes are more slick than ever

The evolution of the classic glasses styles is something of a wonder for 2021. Even where the colours are minimal, delicate and pared down, the designs express a contemporary attitude and showcase an incredible range of materials, with details atuned to modern design enthusiasts.

The square shape is traditionally recommended for round and oval faces, and its versatile, so many of us can carry it off. In crystal tones, the style has a special charm, reminiscent of a look that has been much loved, and easy and flattering for hair colourings and varied tones of skin.

Round glasses are most often suggested for rectangular or square shaped faces but these rules can easily be broken, and the material and thickness of the design can really transform the style and how it looks on different faces. Meanwhile aviator glasses with a square or rectangular eye shape usually flatter oblong and rectangular faces; the double bridge typically has the effect of widening the face and creating a bold statement style. The traditional 1950s browline design (with a heavier line over the top of the front) can be suited to an oblong, oval or diamond shaped face; its expressive statement styling and generally quite large construction is popular with men who seek out vintage style glasses. Above: Nirvan Javan’s London collection – model 09-16 – a classically inspired square shape in a clear crystal acetate, www.nirvanjavan.com

Pismo by l.a. eyeworks: custom acetate components give this incredible round style its totally unique character

l.a. eyeworks interpreted the classic round  in titanium this season: handmade in Japan, their Pismo design has a confident, intellectual air with its perfectly circular eye shape; custom acetate components on bridge and temples ensure that this frame gets noticed wherever it pops up! www.laeyeworks.com

Fresno by Blackfin: a streamlined aviator inspired design from the Razor line by the Italian label

Model Fresno is a roomy, square men’s aviator style with the classic double bridge – clearly vintage inspired with a three-dimensional sculpted nosepiece. The colours lend a stylistic integrity to the look, with modern muted tones of gunmetal, army green/silver and brown/silver or combinations with a flash of brighter colour on the inner surface such as blue/red and black/blue. www.blackfin.eu

Suave and sophisticated: Adrian by Fleye Copenhagen

A traditional browline shape, the combination frame ‘Adrian’ at Fleye has a refined contemporary design – resulting from some very attractive advanced materials. Made from carbon wood and titanium, the colours of dark blue, dark red, dark wood or carbon pattern exemplify this Danish company’s capabilities in special and spectacular finishes. The tiny rivets add to the aesthetic of the construction as well as the robust, and durable quality of the frame. Find out more at https://fleye.dk

  | Eyestylist 23rd May 2021

Sustainable, natural and award-winning: Rolf Spectacles’ Substance

The eco-friendly Substance collection by Rolf Spectacles has won the prestigious EUROPEAN GREEN AWARD Gold Trophy

With its consistent leaning toward sustainable design and 100% natural materials including wood, buffalo horn and stone since its creation in 2009, and a hugely endearing, intuitive ‘slow fashion’ philosophy built on time-honored handcrafting techniques and artisan design, Rolf Spectacles has quietly achieved numerous awards and accolades for its elegant, timeless frame design. Their most recent  – the EUROPEAN GREEN AWARD Gold Trophy, is perhaps the culmination of their journey in eyewear and how much they have achieved so far – in a landscape where questions over sustainable “authenticity” and transparency in fashion and eyewear have become increasingly relevant.

Sustainable eyewear by ROLF Spectacles – the substance collection is plant-based

Their winning entry – the Substance collection – launched in 2020 – is plant based and eco-friendly, produced locally in Austria in an environmentally respectful way from a raw material – beans from the Euphorbiaceae family – that regrow quickly and easily. Created with minimum waste 3D printing technology, these contemporary frames are also free from screws and other parts thanks to the brand’s signature Flexlock hinge. This technical detail – a feature in other collections by Rolf – ensures the frames have qualities of robustness, durability and easy maintenance as well as delivering on design. The hinge can also be printed at the same time as the frame using 3D printing technology, meaning Rolf can make its new glasses all in one go – keeping the number of external suppliers to a minimum. In addition to the high performance of the screwless and patent-pending Flexlock hinge, glasses wearers benefit from the flexible, natural, skin-friendly properties of the plant-based frame.

In powdered form, not only does the natural material of the Substance collection meet all technical requirements, it boasts impressive sustainability credentials – down to the last detail. The plants are grown in tropical climates without any kind of genetic engineering; they don’t compete with food crops; and they can grow very tall at speed.

Details of the eco-friendly “bean” frames which have a soft finish that is very comfortable on the skin

The Rolf team told Eyestylist that they expect this collection to have increasing success in their local markets such as Austria, Germany and Switzerland, where consumers have a strong and increasing interest in and desire to buy sustainable products that are traceable and natural as well as produced locally in an environmentally friendly way.

The EUROPEAN GREEN AWARD (an initiative by the European Institute of Applied Sustainability) brings national and international recognition for special sustainable achievements of companies as well as individuals and honors – via an international jury of experts  – green products, projects, events, hotels, marketing and change makers who have done excellent work for sustainable development in Europe. Find out more about the award-winning Substance collection at www.rolf-spectacles.com This article was written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved.

  | Eyestylist 21st May 2021

Exclusive: sustainable eyewear Ziggy Chen x RIGARDS

A fresh installment in the Ziggy Chen x RIGARDS sustainable eyewear collaboration for 2021 : the design is made from buffalo horn, bamboo paper and repurposed wood

The Chinese menswear designer and the Hong Kong eyewear brand have looked at new ways of working with ethically sourced solid horn, with the usual visual and artisanal approach typical of their creative designs developed together with inimitable style and craftsmanship.

With skill and dexterity, the horn material is sculpted by hand to create the form, characterised by shaved bevels inspired by fluid brush strokes of East Asian calligraphy. The frame has then been coated in gossamer-thin bamboo paper and hand-painted using a complex traditional lacquer technique which requires several stages of drying, sanding and smooth between each layer. The final matte top layer is applied to produce lacquer with a less shiny finish, delivering a unique rendition of the time-honored art form.

The RGO161ZC by Ziggy Chen x RIGARDS is sculpted from buffalo horn – pictured in antique brick

In an audacious contrast with the front, the temples are cut from beta-titanium with a hollow-back construction for the most advantageous lightweight comfort while the temple tips are finished in wood from off-cuts sourced from high end furniture. A typically evocative colour palette offers the final touch of elegance to this model which is produced in antique brick, antique black, and antique white, in celebration of natural beauty and hidden poetry. Such finishes and colorations are a signature of the RIGARDS eyewear brand and testimony to the aesthetic sensibility and commitment to innovation of the brand as it continues to explore new design possibilities through ancient processes and rediscovered crafts.

Ziggy Chen x RIGARDS: RGO161ZC – in antique black

Premiering at Ziggy Chen’s Fall/Winter 2021/2022 presentation entitled Sugardens at Paris Fashion Week, the model us released as a limited edition of 100 serialised pairs. RIGARDS designs are available worldwide at the most exclusive optical retailers and fashion boutiques. For more information visit www.rigards.com

  | Eyestylist 19th May 2021

Square and oversized: Essedue Italian sunglasses

A smart pair of square and oversized sunnies pulls everything together!

For anyone who’s got a little bit bored of the same old accessories in lockdown and a lazy form of dress, an upgraded pair of sunnies could change your outlook for summer! Sunglass trends are bold and brazen for the months ahead, with plenty of good, cheery colour combos, fantastic patterns and interesting voluminous forms to add a modern spin to any look.

Those who do not yet have a pair of large sunnies could look to a square eye shape which is polished and stylish and oozing retro distinction. The Series 4 sun style by the Italian label Essedue Sunglasses, an Italian artisan brand, is one of those styles in traditional Italian acetate, that works with the glamorous distinctive shape in amazing colours.  A classic black frame with beautiful bright graduated lenses is elegant and contemporary as is their red/tortoise combo (above and below) with a light pink tint lens.

Essedue Sunglasses – Series 4 – oversize is always a safe bet in sunwear

The frame is substantial and well built, but not so big that the comfort would be compromised. The CR39 sun lenses, as is typical this season, come in tints that do not completely obscure the eyes and several chic graduated colours of grey or pink that are soft and delicate and easy to wear. Visit the Essedue online store for more information about model Series 4 at www.esseduesunglasses.com/product/serie-4/

  | Eyestylist 17th May 2021

Independent brands & 100% Optical Online (UK)

The UK trade event for the optics industry is taking place online on 23rd-24th May 2021 via an invite only platform / independent artisan labels from Italy, Switzerland, UK and USA are highlighted as part of the carefully coordinated line-up which also includes CET accredited sessions

Headlining with a catwalk show filmed in central London, designed to showcase new eyewear lines to an audience of opticians at home in the UK and further afield, the 100% Optical Online will take place over two days. The event is designed to re-connect buyers and brands and encourage opportunity for new meetings and discoveries after difficult months of shop closures and lockdown and cancellation of numerous trade shows. The fair organisers have dedicated energy and enthusiasm to the online format, and exhibitors and participants include a selection of independent labels that shine the light on innovation and design for the Spring/Summer 2021 and Autumn 21 seasons.

On Monday 17th May, 100% will premiere the “100% Optical London Fashion Show” ahead of the fair.

The 100% virtual platform will provide networking opportunities via AI powered matchmaking, meeting request scheduling, video calls and instant messaging. A one-day programme will feature editorially led content in partnership with the AOP, CET accredited sessions as well as brand spotlight videos and interviews.

Above: The independent label Erker’s 1879  from the USA are regular exhibitors at the live 100% shows in London and this year they are taking part in the upcoming online event which will allow a chance to to discover their very latest new styles. Visit the Erker’s 1879 website to preview this heritage brand’s new collections: www.erkers1879.com

This season is all about colour and stepping out with a fresh look: Maplewood at Erker’s 1879, comes in a stunning burgundy tone with gold metal

The distinctive artisan qualities of the Erker’s 1879 collection are highlighted in their new Maplewood spectacles, a combination design in stainless steel with a softly shaped acetate brow line. This type of retro infused design with handmade details works beautifully through the seasons and can be worn will a variety of apparel tones – from a slick black suit to colorful separates.

Bouganville by L.G.R

Among the brands from Italy that will have products to view during 100% online is Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s prestigious handmade label L.G.R, the ultimate purveyor of high class acetate sunglasses and glasses with beautiful lines, proportions and rich tonal sophistication produced in traditional ways in family-run workshops. www.lgrworld.com

1984 from Portrait Eyewear  in tortoise – the Italian label is distributed in the UK by Framed Eyewear

Portrait Eyewear is a small artistic label from Italy, with a style that is experimental and individualistic. The 1984 glasses come from their Art-Fakt series inspired by retro futurism and based on minimalistic shapes, clean geometries and flat elegant colours. https://portraiteyewear.com

Caspar in denim by Gotti Switzerland

Gotti Switzerland’s collection are a highlight at the 100% annual event, offering versatility, variety and beautiful lightweight comfort. The Swiss brand will exhibit during the event and is one of the highlighted labels in the catwalk presentation. Gotti is a hugely successful brand in the UK, with an aesthetic and colour palette that is subtle, sophisticated and very accessible for all ages. www.gotti.ch

100% Optical Online will take place on 23rd to 24th May 2021. The two day virtual event has been designed to offer an opportunity to opticians and optometrists to reconnect and meet suppliers. Independent brands will be well represented via UK distributors and agents and include the following highlights: Ahlem, Anna-Karin Karlsson, Blake Kuwahara, Booth & Bruce, DITA, Erker’s 1879, Gotti Switzerland, Kaleos, LA Loop, Line Art (Charmant), L.G.R, NW77th, Paul Smith, Portrait Eyewear, + Thom Browne.

The 100% virtual platform will provide networking opportunities via AI powered matchmaking, meeting request scheduling, video calls and instant messaging. A one-day programme will feature editorially led content in partnership with the AOP, CET accredited sessions as well as brand spotlight videos and interviews.

A physical event is planned for 22nd to 24th January 2022 at ExCeL London. Find out more at www.100percentoptical.com