Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 3rd May 2018

Well-Dressed in Victorian Albany: 19th Century Haute Couture

Haute couture on an international scale was flourishing long before the era of globalisation. A fascinating exhibition Well-dressed in Victorian Albany: 19th Century Fashion from the Albany Institute Collection, illustrates how fashion design and changes in style evolved during the reign of the British monarch, Queen Victoria (1837-1901). (Top image:men, women and children’s fashions in a Victorian setting)

Creatively curated by Diana Shewchuk at the Institute, the galleries showcase an extraordinary selection of dresses and accessories of the era, that were purchased in Paris, and also made by skilled home seamstresses in the Upper Hudson Valley. Albany is the capital city of New York State, and Ms Shzwchuk explained: “Many of Albany’s well-to-do families went abroad either for a grand tour experience, or to have daughters presented to Queen Victoria. I think these dresses survive because they were considered masterpieces. The Institute has examples by Charles Frederick Worth; Emile Pingat; Callot Soeurs; Mme Amédée François; and others. The costumes on view tell stories of notable New Yorkers and illuminate their world of fashionable affluence.”

Luxurious materials and lace accent elegant designs in 19th Century fashion

The presentations are displayed on custom carved mannequins. “Everything is surrounded by objects from the Institute”s rich collection of paintings, furniture, and decorative arts which create scenes of nineteenth century domestic life,” noted Shewchuk, “and the addition of art and objects that were made during the Victorian era creates an atmospheric context to the exhibition.”

The vibrancy of the raspberry coloured dress (foreground) was possible with the invention by English chemist William Henry Perkins of the first aniline dye, which transformed colour in fashion.

From wedding gowns (it was Queen Victoria who popularised the idea of white as the colour choice for a wedding gown – women used to wear claret or green dresses) to walking suits, ball gowns and tea dresses, the exhibition presents a selection of extraordinary designs. Garments for both daily life and special occasions reflect the amazing, sumptuous fabrics utilised and include taffetas, shimmering silk satins, plush velvets, lace and luxurious trimmings.

Victorian atmosphere in fashion and home decor. The wicker baby carriage (background) is from the 1890’s.

“Garments like the ones in this exhibition survived because of their sentimental associations, their aesthetic beauty, and sometimes by chance, because they were put away and forgotten,” said Shewchuk. For those who appreciate and love fahsion and social history, these elegant dresses reflect the wide-ranging impact of the Industrial Revolution on the principles, technology, and social history of the time. Continues through 20 May 2018. www.albanyinstitute.org JG

| Eyestylist 1st May 2018

Vive sunglasses!

Summer and sunglasses are synonymous and this season’s presentations offer stunning choices in materials, styles and colours. Tinted lenses bring additional zip to sun specs in glamorous, unexpected shades. Cat-eye shapes; graphic and angular frames; round shapes in mini and oversized designs; plus aviators – a perennial favourite – feature in varied selections. It’s time to celebrate summer with beautiful, distinctive sun specs from international designers.

Götti Switzerland has accumulated numerous awards for their innovative designs. The latest accolade is Frame of the Year 2018 for the elegant rimless model DC05, from the Götti Perspective collection (top image). “For me, rimless glasses are the most prestigious discipline in the design of glasses,” says designer and owner Sven Götti, “and achieving the technical requirements with so few materials took over eight years of development.” The captivating shape with tinted lenses is constructed without soldering or screws. Explore more Götti technical innovations at www.gotti.ch

Norma from The Diva Collection by Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei

Drama, beauty, intrigue – Opera has it all, and is the influence for the striking designs in the Diva Collection by Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei. The Divas are glamorous sunglasses with haute-couture touches in Mazzucchelli acetate. Norma has round, expressive shaping, further enhanced with tonal colour explorations. www.resrei.com

Lobster from The Signature Collection by Fleye Copenhagen

The Danish smorrebrod concept – delicious layering on sandwiches – inspires a distinctive Limited Edition sunglass design from The Signature Collection by Fleye Copenhagen – Lobster. Sculptural shaping, meticulously handcrafted in beta-titanium, ensures a slim, very light, and extremely comfortable frame. Fun and playful! www.fleye.dk

Seine by KBL Eyewear

Summer days on the river in Paris inspire KBL with Seine – a contemporary, sleek sunglass design in Tortoiseshell acetate and gold metal. Seine reflects a refined, timeless design that embraces new technology. www.kbleyewear.com

LINDBERG model 8412

LINDBERG’S latest sunglass designs for men are debonair, slim line and expertly crafted in the finest materials. Model 8412 highlights an architectural sensibility with a double bridge. All LINDBERG sunglasses are suitable for prescription lenses. www.lindberg.com

The Garden by Anna-Karin Karlsson

The Girl in the Garden Collection by Anna-Karin Karlsson includes luxurious sunglasses in 24K gold-plated titanium, totally handcrafted. Japanese titanium artists individually sculpt the lush flowers that embellish The Garden. www.annakarinkarlsson.com JG

| Eyestylist 30th April 2018

WOOW Eyewear: behind the brand

In 2011, the French eyewear company FACE A FACE launched a second brand, WOOW, a colourful stylish line of off-beat frames with engaging messages on the temples. Eyestylist met the young designers behind the catchy concept, Claire Ferreira and Marianne Dezes (above).

How did you come up with “WOOW” eyewear? In 2011, we had been working on the possibility of creating another brand in addition to FACE A FACE. We wanted it to be young and fresh with an accessible price. We started with the concept of the frame, and focused on the temples or arms which face each other – the original focus of FACE A FACE. We imagined them starting to chat to one another – and that was the beginning of this very different idea. We now see the WOOW label as the child of FACE A FACE.

WATCH OUT1 by WOOW Eyewear

Why WOOW? Woow is a palindrome, a fun “sound” that people use as an expression for many different things. You can say it any way you want and it is totally spontaneous. As a collection name, it works perfectly with the witty phrases on the temples. We wanted to see if we could create a new relationship with eyewear through this name, inspiring happiness, joy and hope through British inspired humour, colour and the personal touch of the words on different frame styles.

How are the frames styled? The shapes are always trendy and fashionable, for the young and the daring. The touch of colour is really specific in the combination of materials. Our inspiration came from London, but always with a strong influence, naturally, from our own French taste. One of our idiosyncratic design details – highlighting the words at the temple tips – came from the design of the old-fashioned typewriters and their classic round keys.

Make Sense1 by WOOW Eyewear

As designers, you have created something completely different. Are you pleased with the results? WOOW is like our baby, it’s a collection we adore! When we were training, we didn’t only learn about shape and colour and product design, for us designing means thinking too – and coming up with new ideas. With WOOW we had the chance to oversee all the steps, from the concept to the creation of the actual frames, giving life to a brand with an evolution that we hope our wearers will truly enjoy. you don’t just choose a frame with WOOW, it’s really about choosing a lifestyle!

Watch Out3 by WOOW Eyewear

Tell us about the styles releasing this month? The new collection includes different looks: a more “working girl” styling, through to architectural shapes and, on the other hand, some very feminine frames. Bigger trendy silhouettes and a mix of more unusual colours stand out. Our frames are tempting like sweets –  it’s difficult choose which one to go for! For more details about WOOW, visit www.wooweyewear.com CN

| Eyestylist 27th April 2018

Anna-Karin Karlsson Jewellery treasures

Bold and beautiful, dash and daring characterise the eyewear designs of Anna-Karin Karlsson. Now the prolific Swedish designer has launched a jewellery collection – abundant with AKK’s inimitable, imaginative dreams steeped in strength and statement. “There is so much half-hearted stuff out there,” said the designer, “and I wanted to create something that was strong, graphic, beautiful and enduring.” Top image: Anna-Karin Karlsson

Rose Noir Necklace by Anna-Karin Karlsson

The Anna-Karin Fashion Jewellery Collection includes necklaces, bracelets, and earrings of distinction. Flowers are a particular inspiration for Karlsson – and she enlarges on this theme with the Rose Noir Necklace crafted in resin and 24k gold plated metal. The sculpted design sits elegantly and comfortably on the neck.

Bug Cuff Bracelet by AKK

Karlsson has a delightful sense of humour that she portrays in her eyewear – and the jewellery as well. She is curious and fascinated with life, the environment, and animals. A wide cuff bracelet in plated white gold is enhanced with a handpainted colourful bug.

Chain mania by AKK

The timelessness of gold chains is elegantly interpreted by Karlsson in 24k gold plated links that can be worn with variety. Currently, Anna-Karin Karlsson’s Fashion Jewellery Collection is available in Russia, France, Portugal, Sweden and South Africa. With her prodigious talent, it is intriguing to contemplate what Anna-Karin’s next exciting quest may be…www.annakarinkarlsson.com JG

| Eyestylist 27th April 2018

Lovely Waste: Milan Design Week

WooClass – the small design focused eyewear label from near Florence was one of the highlights at Lovely Waste, Milan Design Week 2018 – a pilot project from Source, the Italian Design and Networking Agency. The project is the first in a series of events focusing on circular economy strategy, sustainability (product development  and production) and technology. The exhibition focuses on the development of design concepts using production waste, by three product designers: Alberto Ghirarello, Filippo Protasoni and Sebastian Tonelli. Above: Sebastiano Tonelli’s NOVO.

“We put the scraps of our production on the table…to stimulate the designers into working on a different type of process or product…” WooClass

NO LENSES by Alberto Ghirardello

The three designers interpreted, according to their own way of designing, in accordance with the production processes of WooClass, the re-use of the waste materials, suggesting different ways to optimize the production process and / or to make use of the material intended for waste.

Work in progress : MAKI VIEW by Filippo Protasoni
MAKI VIEW by Filippo Protasoni

What emerged is a twofold development: the creation of new accessory products and new ways to experiment with the re-use of waste in the production cycle using it as a new material from which the frames could be cut. For further information, visit WooClass: www.wooclass.com CN