Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 16th September 2016

The past makes a lovely present

This delightful slogan appears on a shopping bag from the Wien Museum in Vienna Austria, and ideally relates to the 90th birthday of Oliver Goldsmith – the celebrated British Heritage eyewear company. Claire Goldsmith, the dynamic, resourceful, energetic and enthusiastic director, believes that “the best is yet to come. We fully intend to make the next decade more important than any other.” Claire (above) has graciously granted an exclusive interview to Eyestylist on OG’s potential insights and plans for the next decade…as they elegantly march towards their Centennial Anniversary.

Tortoise Split by Oliver Goldsmith
Tortoise Split by Oliver Goldsmith

In your opinion, why has vintage – eyewear styles from the 1950’s, 60’s etc. – continued to be so in demand? “They say out of adversity comes innovation, and the war years brought about huge adversity. What came off the back of that were decades of huge innovation in many walks of life. In the design world, everything from eyewear to car design and furniture to architecture – it’s all remained relevant from that period, and I think that comes down to what was going on in people’s lives at that time. Post war optimism and the feeling that anything was possible. Nothing had yet been done. Quite unlike how we feel today! Saying that, I see some designs coming out of new companies that I truly believe will stand the test of time themselves, and in sixty years from now will be hailed as vintage classics from 2016!

"I love the INGEMA - the feel of it"
“I love the INGEMA – the feel of it”

What are some of the differences between the OG frames created sixty-seventy years ago – and today? “To be honest we try hard to make no differences. There are some things like lens technology which has come a long way with improvement. We also have access to things like hypo allergenic hinges – but we make them in the old pinned hinge style! The Oliver Goldsmith brand is about clean and classic styling, and I don’t see us straying from that. The old saying ‘they don’t make ’em like they used to!’ does not apply to Oliver Goldsmith.

The OGLE "handmade in England to order...but watch this space."
The OGLE “handmade in England to order…but watch this space.”

Are you planning any special celebrations or events for the 90th Anniversary of OG? “We have had a great year doing small events around the world to mark this special birthday, but as we draw closer to the completion of that year, we are focused on the new decade ahead of us. As a 4th generation Goldsmith heading up this side of the business, I want to ensure that the next ten years in the lead up to the company’s centennial celebration, we create and produce some collections which show that we still set the standard. We have so much planned already in terms of design and development of a new collection called OG DECADES. But I can’t say any more about that right now. We also have tonnes of new treatments planned for the much loved OG ICONS collection – a bunch of characters in their own right. The OG FAMILY collection is also continuing to grow with new relatives joining the line up each season. So really the message is let’s start the new Decade! 100 here we come!”

What is your favourite OG frame and why? “That’s like asking which of my children I love most! I have a couple of favourites: I love the Y-NOT because it’s just a total statement frame and it’s so OG! I love the OGLE – but we have never put it into production. Its only ever been handmade in England to order. I might consider it for ready to wear – watch this space – but I LOVE this frame. I love the INGEMA – the feel of it. It’s got 3-dimensional hand built temples. It was originally made for Michael Caine in the IPCRESS FILE. It’s another design that has only ever been handmade in England to order.”

OG: Goldside Editions Lord sunglasses
OG: Goldside Editions Lord Sunglasses

This month Claire launches the stunning OG: Goldside Editions – with two defining designs from the family archive – Manhattan and Lord. The Limited Edition of only 500 pieces will be made in raw black and gold, with flat gold flash mirror sun lens – to mark the end of one OG decade and the start of another. Happy 90th Birthday Oliver Goldsmith! Discover more at www.olivergoldsmith.com JG

| Eyestylist 15th September 2016

Smoke x Mirrors: eyewear with artistry and attitude

Smoke x Mirrors – the New York label that launched last year – is the creative endeavour of two cousins: David Shabati and Roi Ironi (above). Roi tells Eyestylist how they started their business.

Please give a brief history of how Smoke x Mirrors was created? “It started in Mexico when I lost my glasses. I went out to replace them, but couldn’t find anything I liked – it all looked the same to me. After this, I couldn’t help but to explore, and that’s when I recognised the lack of innovation in the industry, and the white space waiting to be tapped into. After working in the watch business, a very traditional industry from a manufacturing standpoint, I saw eyewear as an opportunity and vehicle to really express creativity, and push technology to reach the desired design level.”

Smoke x Mirrors GeoII
Smoke x Mirrors GeoII

How would you describe the fashion concept and philosophy of Smoke x Mirrors? “We approach eyewear as a means of fashion innovation. Outside of our core collection, we release diverse, radically different capsule collections, and collaborations that don’t necessarily adhere to a set identity – that’s where the name comes in. It gives us the freedom to play and experiment with design, to push boundaries on the technical and aesthetic level. ”

Artful geometrics: GeoII
Artful geometrics: GeoII

What is the customer profile – and consumer marketplace – of the Smoke x Mirrors frame wearer? “Our glasses are genderless and ageless. Simply put, my girlfriend and my father wear the same frames.”

As newcomers to the eyewear industry – what are the biggest challenges so far? “The classic industry is not relevant as it is today, but is undergoing a seismic shift that we’re set to lead.”

Double bridge sunglasses with a difference: GeoIII by Smoke x Mirrors
Double bridge sunglasses with a difference: GeoIII by Smoke x Mirrors

In the next three years, how do you foresee Smoke x Mirrors developing your own identity, and distinguishing your brand in the eyewear business? “In terms of identity, time is not relevant – whether’s it’s now or in three years, we’ll still be Smoke x Mirrors.” www.smokexmirrors.com  Smoke x Mirrors will present their latest capsule collection – GEO –  at Silmo in Paris 23rd-26th September. www.silmoparis.com JG

 

| Eyestylist 14th September 2016

Nonconformist eyewear: RIGARDS

Sculptural details crafted into amazing shapes, and sci-fi aesthetics, characterise the spirited collection that RIGARDS by Ti Kwa will present at Silmo 23rd-26th September in Paris. The designs are bold and strong, yet surprisingly light, and extremely comfortable to wear – the secret…hollow-back construction. Nuance, mystery and glamour are key in RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Black (above). Creative shaping enhances the rich, über-cool dynamic in the sunglasses.

RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro
RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro

Dramatic flourish in horn brings new flair and originality to designs. Signature finishes and daring craftsmanship are vividly expressed in RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro (above).

RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome
RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome

Optical flair with a dashing fluid shape highlights RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome. Expressive…Bespoke…Nonconformist…expect the wonderfully unexpected with RIGARDS. www.rigards.com JG

 

| Eyestylist 12th September 2016

Peter by JF Rey

French brand JF Rey has launched new designs in the Au Masculin/leather line. The sleek frames include sunglasses in a trio of Italian leather, acetate and metal. Intricate detailing highlights Peter – with its stylish leather bridge and distinctive frame shape. The complete JF Rey Au Masculin collection can be viewed at Silmo 23rd-26th September. www.jfrey.fr www.silmoparis.com JG

| Eyestylist 12th September 2016

Timeless and authentic: genuine horn

More than two decades ago when Sven Götti started designing eyewear, his first frame was in bona fide horn. “I love to work with this material, and I know people appreciate the product. This target group has found its personal style, and seeks the appropriate accessory to emphasise their individual character. They appreciate sophisticated, high-quality designs,” says the Swiss designer. Above photo: Borg in grey natural horn

Handcrafted by artisans: Götti horn frames
Handcrafted by artisans: Götti horn frames

Genuine horn has been used in eyewear since the middle of the 15th century. The horn featured in Götti frames is ethically and ecologically produced from Asian water buffaloes that are kept as farm animals. Nowadays, technological improvements ensure that horn eyewear is even more durable. Specialists create the frames entirely by hand – so each pair is a one-of-a-kind treasure.

Götti horn polished to a unique sheen
Götti horn polished to a unique sheen

The frames are incredible works of art, crafted with passion, diligence and love of detail. It takes three days to refine the surface with polishing paster and wood elements, and the frame finish achieves its unique sheen from an expertly trained artisan’s hand in a small German atelier. “Besides stylish creations, customers also appreciate sustainability,” observes Götti. The elegant authentic horn collection by Götti will be presented at Silmo 23rd-26th September. More Götti innovations at www.gotti.ch www.silmoparis.com JG