Eyestylist

M4 Am Friedrichshain

1st January 2015

ic! berlin

A good example of the clever colorations in the autumn/winter acetate release by ic! berlin. Five subdued and shadowy acetate colourways are represented, each one offering a cool earth tone such as flint grey, yellow sand or brown driftwood, as pictured, inspired by driftwood washed up on the beach. Frames can be fitted as opticals or sunglasses with slick matching graduated lens colours. The natural finish of the material is modern and mature. See more images at https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/11/trends-the-two-tone-front. www.ic-berlin.de CN

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Sahara

1st January 2015

L.G.R.

African beauty and mystery influence L.G.R.’s Sahara sunglasses. The bold character of the design is characterised with superb quality cellulose acetate in Havana brown that extends to the temples, and a black stainless steel lower rim and nose bridge. Tempered mineral glass lenses are an important feature in sunglasses, and the Blue High Definition lenses in Sahara are exceptionally fine quality. For more L.G.R. eyewear excitement, visit their new website at www.lgrworld.com JG

Boutiques

Suzy Glam Opens Boutique In Amsterdam

1st January 2015

1st January 2015 The enthusiastic crowd jostled for shoulder space, while enjoying the music and festive atmosphere. The occasion was the opening of the Suzy Glam Boutique in Amsterdam – a cause for celebration for the Swiss born-Netherlands based designer. The boutique is the culmination of months of work by Susanne Klemm and her partner Etienne Frederiks. “We’ve done everything ourselves,” said Frederiks, “and that includes all the electrical work and painting, and Susanne did the design. The previous owner of this shop – which was a sport shop specialist with lots of fishing items – really didn’t do anything to the space for probably forty years. It’s been a lot of work, but we enjoy it.”

White and Wood - Pure Elegance at Suzy Glam Boutique — White and Wood – Pure Elegance at Suzy Glam Boutique

The shop location is close to the Museum District, and the famed Concertgebouw, and easily reached by Amsterdam’s convenient and marvellous trams. The shop interior is refined and uncluttered – just like the exquisite eyewear designs by Susanne Klemm. Walls are pristine white – a perfect backdrop for the collection. The previous shop owner left his fine wood shelving and glass-fronted cases, which turn out to be ideal for eyewear display and stock.

It is just two years since Suzy Glam was launched, and her frames are now sold internationally. Suzy Glam was awarded Gold in The Hall of Frames/Eyestylist Newcomer Award in 2013. The opening night showcased the SG collection and the guest collection of Paulino Spectacles from Portugal, with designer Ramiro Paulino present.

Susanne Klemm, Ramiro Paulino and Etienne Frederiks at Suzy Glam Amsterdam boutique opening

The event was an exhilarating occasion for the presentations of exciting collections. Eyestylist wishes Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks every success with their new boutique. Along with Van Gogh and The Rijksmuseum on your Amsterdam to do list, remember to include Suzy Glam Boutique! Roelof Hartstraat 32 1071 VK Amsterdam www.suzyglam.com JG

Photos: Photo of Susanne Klemm, Ramior Paulino and Etienne Frederiks by Dervin Curiel All other images by Dick Kikstra

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Zac Posen

1st January 2015

Zac Posen launched his modern American glamorous fashion collection in 2001. The award winning designer is recognised for his artisanal craftsmanship and masterful use of textiles.

Do you have any favourite inspirations for designing clothing and eyewear? “I’m inspired by everything that surrounds me – people, places, art, and even a mood. I recently created a colourful gown in my ZAC Zac Posen collection that was inspired by a sunset I saw while taking a vacation in Harbour Island. I wouldn’t say one influence has driven the design of our eyewear collection. I’ve drawn inspiration from the essence and DNA within the Zac Posen brand. The collection, both men’s and women’s, is infused with the notion of modern American glamour that is always present in everything I create. Translating that to eyewear has been an exciting process for me.”

Marcelo by Zac Posen — Marcelo for Men in Tortoise by Zac Posen

What is your favourite material in which to design clothing – and eyewear? “That’s hard to say, I’ve used so many wonderful and highly innovative materials and fabrics from all around the world over the years. In eyewear I’ve always loved the use and look of metal combined with other materials. We always try to use it in innovative and interesting ways to create a bold and distinctive frame that exudes sophisticated glamour.”

What do you find the most interesting aspect in eyewear design? “Form and function within the design of eyewear has always interested me. The use of certain methods when designing eyewear fascinates me. It’s essential that you consider the function of the product when introducing certain design elements or materials to the frame.”

Nico in Maroon by Zac Posen from the women's collection — Nico in Maroon by Zac Posen from the women’s collection

You are now designing Bridal wear – are their other items you would like to design – perhaps beyond fashion? “Of course! Design and my love for creating is definitely not exclusive to fashion. I’ve been fortunate enough to create many other things outside my Zac Posen brand. I’ve designed cars, technology products, and even a Barbie! I always look to stretch my design skills outside of my everyday role so I am continually inspired and challenged.”

Do your fashion designs ever inspire frames – or frames a fashion piece? “Yes, quite often one influences the other. Both the dramatic and subtle gestures of our pieces can be translated across to the eyewear. We also design our exclusive runway eye collection to fit into the overall design theme of that particular season. The design consistency across the categories allow us to maintain the common themes that build brand recognition.” www.zacposen.com www.kenmarkoptical.com JG

Arts + travel

Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire

1st January 2015

Victorian & Edwardian Mourning Attire at Anna Wintour Costume Center New York City

1st January 2015 “She was beginning to find that everyone had an air of remoteness; she seemed to see people and life through the confusing blur of the long crape veil in which it was a widow’s duty to shroud her affliction.” Edith Wharton, “New Year’s Day,” in Old New York (New York; D. Appleton, 1924

Mourning after the death of a loved one was an intricate part of social mores in the 19th Century. Throughout this period, the duty of wearing mourning fell primarily on women, whose sartorial choices were seen as a reflection of the family’s collective grief, as well as their social status, economic standing, and level of respectability. A woman in full mourning dress became the emblematic icon of bereavement in Europe and America. Mourning dress served as a visual symbol of grief and respect for the deceased.

Children were often put into mourning as well, participating in their family’s memorialization of the deceased.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York traces the mores and fashions of this period in Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire. The mourning period could be up to a year; however, after being widowed in 1861, Queen Victoria limited her public appearances, and dressed in shades of mourning for the remaining forty years of her life, presenting an image of chast widowhood, in her “widow’s weeds.” The thematic exhibition is organised chronologically and features mourning dress from 1815 to 1915, primarily from The Costume Institute’s collection.

Mourning and Fashion coexist - Elegant Harmonization - — Mourning and Fashion coexist – Elegant Harmonization –

Formal rituals of bereavement aided in memorializing the dead, and mourning attire was subject to increasingly complex codes of etiquette and fashion. For Queen Victoria, in her forty years of widowhood, her mourning never lightened. When King Edward, Victoria’s son died in 1910, The Palace issued messages that wedding celebrations should take place as scheduled. The weddings did take place, but most guests still wore black. Even in sadness and grief, fashion played an influential role. Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire continues at the Metropolitan Museum of Art through 1st February 2015. www.metmuseum.org JG

All images: Gallery View Anna Wintour Costume Center, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery Copyright: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Eyestylist

M4 Am Friedrichshain

ic! berlin

Sahara

L.G.R.

Suzy Glam Opens Boutique In Amsterdam

Zac Posen

Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire

Victorian & Edwardian Mourning Attire at Anna Wintour Costume Center New York City