Eyestylist

Silmo 2023 delivered a lively showcase of new directions for 2024, thanks to the creative designers and independent labels from around the globe who continue to set the innovation agenda within the world of optics. 

Silmo 2023 was a positive and dynamic event for companies across the optical business. Official figures published in the last few days report that the fair attracted a total of 31,337 visitor-buyers, including 15,902 from abroad. In total 929 companies were present in halls 6 and 7 at Paris-Nord Villepinte for the 4 day event. Creative and independent designers were well represented with companies travelling from far and wide including Japan, Australia, Canada and the US, as well as Europe.

Design and colour trends offered much choice and diversity in terms of inspiration, key colour directions and frame architecture. A particular interest in the interpretation of larger architectural and 3-dimensional frames was evident but there were also many new ideas for smaller closer-fitting shapes, multi-sided and organic structures and the beginning of a re-evaluation of rimless eyewear for 2024. Colour trends included some bright blue, yellow and lilac stories while lots of new ideas for finishes and textures offered food for thought for our trend analysis coming up. Above: The stunning Ouvrage by Lafont Paris in collaboration with Maison Sekimoto – created as part of a celebration of the company’s 100th anniversary – was awarded the Prix Special Du Jury – read more about the frame here: https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/09/silmo-preview-lafont-paris-designs-with-sekimoto/

The Rigards stand at Silmo Paris was, as usual, filled with beautiful and iconic designs with new highly accomplished work including the RG1009TI finished with guilloché, a technique requiring particular savoir-faire and which was used in the past to decorate articles of beauty such as Edwardian enamel lockets. Their styles with colourful precious stone inlays were also out of this world, revisiting artistic work of the past (reminding us of the ethereal qualities and light effects of stained glass windows) to create something newly refined for the eyewear connoisseur. Read more about the RG1009TI frame here: https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/09/silmo-preview-rigards-new-work/

MYKITA won SILMO’s first ever “Responsible Company” award, which has been designed to recognise progress in social and environmental responsibility. The category was assessed by an independent CSR jury. Among MYKITA’s achievements in this field are their full switch to the sustainable eyewear material – Eastman Acetate Renew in 2022, and full circularity with their stainless steel supply since 2022. In 2023, the company has introduced a corporate purpose and new strategic platform focused around CSR topics, to guide the company through a sustainability transformation going forward. www.mykita.com

A delightful collection by Italian designer Cleto Munari – his first ever work in eyewear design – has been created in Vicenza, Italy with the collaboration of experts in the art of goldsmithing in Montecchio Maggiore.

The collection is made of premium Italian cellulose acetate by Mazzucchelli 1849. The colour combinations have been carefully conceived to create something unique: the multilayer acetate plate is custom made by Mazzucchelli exclusively for Cleto Munari. Stainless steel hinges ensure resistance and performance while the design of each element meets a commitment to a sustainable, ethical, transparent supply chain.

Cleto Munari, who was presenting the collection at the stand at SILMO, is 93. Since the 1970s he has worked in the field of design collaborating with renowned designers, architects and artists including Carlo Scarpa and Ettore Sottsass. Find out more at www.cletomunarieyewear.com

Capote Eyewear showed a captivating titanium collection that offers balance, harmony and original lens/frame colour combinations. New model ‘Ginga’ – meaning Galaxy in Japanese and “rhythmic dance” in the vocabulary of the Brazilian Capoeira dance, was an eye-catcher with an attractive undulating shape and cut-out detailing  at the bridge. The line is wearable and distinctive – with precision in all the small details. www.capoteyewear.com

The small design label Minchillo Occhialeria was a new highlight for those seeking handmade one-off fantasy pieces. Minchillo frames are completely bespoke and handmade in Puglia in Italy. Find out more by checking out their page on Instagram www.instagram.com/minchillo_occhialeria

The small independent label RAPP, presented this year at SILMO by Founder Mel Rapp, had some extremely fun-to-wear styles including brilliant cat’s eye shapes; this round frame called Maggs features a raised dotted line around the rims in a contrasting tone to the base structure. The designs are made exclusively in Canada. Find out more at www.rappeyewear.com

This year the winners of the Silmo D’Or prizes were: Children’s category, Etnia Barcelona with Ba-Baang; Sport category, Marchon with Nike Fly Free; Vision Visual Health, EssilorLuxottica with Varilux XR Series; Vision Optical System: Morrow with Morrow EProgressives; Material/Equipment: Saargos with QuickSee Free from Plenoptika; Optical Frame Brands & Label: ODLM-Seaport with CC 1086 Vedo, Carven; Ecological Innovation in Eyewear: Sbrusset & Co. with Meyro-Nde; Sunglasses Eyewear Designer: Andy Wolf with Blossom; and Optical Frame Eyewear Designer: Cutler & Gross with 9126 Lunettes Cat-Eye in the After Party collection. The Premier Classe Show Award went to Veronika Wildgruber with Lane and the Special Jury Prize to Lafont Paris with their elegant Ouvrage design.

SILMO Paris 2024 will take place on 20th to 23rd September 2024. For more details about the show and the Silmo D’Or awards visit www.silmoparis.com – Further analysis, notable new launches and trend insights will be available at Eyestylist in the weeks coming up. Watch this space!

The Colorist Collection is informed by a detailed study of colours and the effects when they are combined

Italian brand Tree Spectacles has gone deeper into colour with their latest line called the Coloristic Collection, a significant launch for the Italian independent eyewear company comprising 24 ophthalmic models in acetate and bio acetate. Based on a detailed study of colour and colour combinations rooted in the theory of colour, the models in the line are the result of different thoughts on and research into how colours can be combined, balanced and manipulated to convey unique sensations, moods, and special effects.

Considering not only the choice of the colours – each colour evokes different feelings and associations -, but also the harmony of colours, in combinations which are complementary, analogous or monochromatic creating many effects, a special dynamic contrast or a light and harmonious balance was sought out in every unique design. Above: sophisticated colourations are a feature of the new line by Tree Spectacles

The Orfeo style has a large round elegant eye shape. Details include a pretty sculpted temple tip and a fusion of colourful tones on the upper front rim. The four colorways offered include lilac, pink, blue and purple.

The Coloristic collection is further distinguished by made in Italy quality and a surprising complexity of the model production.

Every detail, from the initial design to the final assembly, is addressed with painstaking attention and artisanal savoir-faire. This dedicated approach manifests itself in the creation of glasses that are not just accessories, but functional collectibles with a timeless appeal, the result of an uncompromising commitment to excellence. Find out more at www.treespectacles.com

With just a day to go until the Paris show opens, eyewear teams and designers are descending on the French capital with new launches and premieres for the coming season and Spring/Summer 2024. Our final feature ahead of the show rounds up some of the latest products to be launching during what looks set to be a very warm and sunny September weekend.

Silmo Paris, the annual optical event which provides a global platform to showcase eyewear from around the world, opens on Friday 29th September at 9am and runs through the weekend until 2nd October. The creative talent of the independent eyewear segment looks set to surprise and amaze visitors during the event again this year through their work and dedication to the production of specialist, quality-driven eyewear collections in all manner of materials, colours and designs – for all tastes and personal styles. Those who take risks in working with new sustainable materials or with new techniques or advanced technology, never before seen in the eyewear business, as well as those who adhere to the strictest finessing of traditional eyewear production will be among those we will be seeking out during the show to ascertain what’s next for the industry – as sustainability pressures continue to grow. Above: LEINZ Eyewear – www.leinzeyewear.com – the Berlin-based brand – will release new styles at Silmo including a special edition collaboration with Parisian fashion designer, Guillaume Larquemain – the styles feature Larquemain’s signature Apple Skin Pattern – Larquemain uses an innovative apple bio-material produced with apple waste from the beverage industry in his bag collection 

One of the new styles from SALT. Optics (C4 2023 collection) is men’s frame Teton, an acetate design with four colorways of black, coastal fog, desert fog and matte woodgrain. SALT. Optics has made a feature of the frame’s custom Japanese core wire, via a stamped organic pattern that can be seen beneath the frame. This hand polished detail represents “nature’s effortless beauty”, the principal design focus that informs the whole SALT. collection. www.saltoptics.com

Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses will release models Carters and Irwin as part of their much loved Oliver Goldsmith Winter Sun Collection. The two sculptural pieces offer powerful silhouettes that capture the personality of the collection which is characterised by a ‘re-imagining’ of classic sunglass profiles. Find out more: www.olivergoldsmith.com

The Paris based designer Jeremy Tarian will launch new products in his mainline collection, including the bright blue version of the Cateri, a limited edition with a 3-layer acetate construction where an optical illusion is created between the thickness of the acetate and the finesse of the frame’s lines. The bridge is characterised by an artistic colour design. www.tarian.paris

Rolf Spectacles told Eyestylist that they will release new colours in the Substance collection including new stonewashed  graphite and jade tones. They have also announced their new Wire collection which promises progressive design and an interesting take on bold colour and colour combinations – a fresh departure for the Austrian brand. www.rolf-spectacles.com

Normandy-based artisan eyewear design label Struktur produces an eyewear collection that is exclusively made in France according to traditional artisan spectacle-making practices. A frame like the new Nova offers a distinctive sculpted look thanks to expertise in variable step bevelling, while the 5 -claw hinge is integrated for a sturdy functionality and ideal pantoscopic angle. Struktur states that each frame is created with 80 specialist steps carried out by experienced artisans. www.struktur-eyewear.com

The sustainable eyewear brand from Northern Sweden – EOE Eyewear – will show a collection created in collaboration with jewellers from Lannavaara (Swedish Lapland) who work with natural stone. The stones featured, which include quartz and mountain crystals, have been used for decorative elements on the frame structures and temples with dramatic results. www.eoe-eyewear.com

Australian label AM Eyewear will return to Silmo after several years absence, owing to the pandemic. The collection they are showing for Spring/Summer 2024 pays homage to British brand New Order’s 2001 album release ‘Get Ready’, and features several on-trend squared and edgy rectangular designs – a popular look in eyewear this season. There are eight new sunglass designs in total with shapes offering a “defiantly young modern aesthetic”. This collection uses sustainably produced bio-based custom coloured ZEISS sun lenses in tones of Brit Green, Rust Red and Navy Blue. Italian-made bio-based acetates carry the traditional tortoiseshell and black frames, while introducing a heavier new palette across the crystals with Wheat, Maple, Khaki. The collection also introduces new block colours in Nude, and pastels in Baby Blue and Baby Pink. www.ameyewear.com

THE AVANTGUARD will launch The Rewilding Sunglasses Collection in Paris this weekend, their 3-part ‘bloom, grow + blossom’ fashion range, made in Japan with a “sustainable approach” – the launch campaign has been created solely using AI

Emerging label, THE AVANTGUARD, founded by Faiza Seth, heads to Paris this week with a striking collection and new campaign, with imagery based on the powerful use of AI. The campaign presents the collection of 11 sunglass designs, made using recycled, bio-degradable and plant-based acetate exclusively. Above: the campaign for The Rewilding Collection is inspired by the  positive connection between nature and fashion – when working in harmony. All the frames are produced in bio-degradable, recycled or plant-based acetate: “we celebrate nature and our role within it, with zero environmental impact” THE AVANTGUARD

“I’m really proud of this collection because it shows that fashion can be beautiful, on-trend and good for the planet” Faiza Seth, Founder, THE AVANTGUARD

The collection includes the Neroli sunglasses style, an upswept and deliberately oversized cat’s eye design, produced in 8mm premium Italian acetate and handcrafted in Japan.

The Wildflower sunglasses (above) offer a hexagonal silhouette, designed for “the free spirited, independent thinker”. The colour story is interesting for this model, with a choice of tones from trendsetting Viva Magenta to a fun ‘patchwork effect’ matt tort.

The multiple details featured for all the sunglasses in the line have been curated with care and expertise, and include bespoke, triangular hinges and customised metal wire-core temples. The temple tips are laminated in a highlight colour and the inner temple tips feature lines laser etched onto the acetate to add grip. The EYE FOR CHANGE is also lasered etched and ink filled on the inside of selected frames.

About THE AVANTGUARD – the brand was founded by the London-based entrepreneur and philanthropist, Faiza Seth. Her vision is to create a beautiful sustainable collection that is both fashionable and accessible. Creating the collections in micro-batches (300 pieces per style) in Japan, the aim is to commit to minimising waste while maintaining high standards of production and design. Find out more at www.theavantguard.com