City guides

Opti Munich: the May edition 2022

The show in Munich takes place from 13th to 15th May 2022

opti 2022 looks forward to welcoming visitors and a host of exhibitors to their event in May, the first opti show to take place since January 2020 following the lengthy Covid disruptions. The fair will take place at its traditional venue – Messe Munich and promises a complete panorama of the whole of the optical industry, with areas for lens and contact lens companies, low vision, shop fitting and technology – as well as for eyewear in a variety of categories.

The 2022 edition will feature a “mixture of new and well-established elements” in the four-hall concept that visitors are used to. Halls C1 and C2 will contain the frame collections of licensed brands and manufacturer brands, the YES independent design area and the opti BOXES will present exciting start-ups and small independent labels. Hall C3 will feature a further choice of licensed brands and manufacturer brands in the frame area, as well as all other types of product for the optical stores. In Hall C4, focus will be on spectacle lenses, contact lenses and accessories, refraction and diagnostics, as well as IT and machinery.

Opti is always supportive of eyewear start-ups and new labels and this year, it will host a dozen young designers via the opti BOXES initiative. The labels will compete in the first opti BOX AWARDS, the criteria for which is design, sustainability, functionality, technology and marketing. Among those taking part is LEINZ Eyewear from Berlin – https://leinzeyewear.de. The awards ceremony for this event will take place live on site on Saturday 14th May at 12.30 pm in Hall C2 in the opti BOXES area.  / Above: JF Rey from Marseille, France will return to opti for the May edition with their labels, JF Rey, BOZ and Volte Face – their stand is located in HALL C2.

Rolf Spectacles’ award-winning eyewear: evolved collection

Rolf Spectacles will exhibit a bold new collection with many distinctive elements: brand new frames for kids, the very first texture in the 3D printed plant-based line substance mount, and a refined handcrafted wood collection where different colours and textures are combined with an inventive, and totally unique style of design. www.rolf-spectacles.com

Rigards’ award-winning RG1911AG .925 Sterling Silver – edition with Royal Selangor

Rigards’ collection this year is bursting with innovation in materials and structures and their dazzling design works, all made by hand should not be missed at opti. The brand is a leading innovator in reinventing the traditional craft of handmade spectacle making with completely new ideas about material possibilities, architectural aesthetics and avantgarde shapes. www.rigards.com

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Acetate style Claudius by Ørgreen Optics

Ørgreen Optics is a highlight at the opti fair each year, and for 2022 comes highly recommended for anyone who seeks a look at a diverse portfolio of Danish design collections in polyamide, stainless steel, titanium and acetate. Their expertise in colour thanks to resident colorist Sahra Lysell, remains a real highlight across these quality collections. www.orgreenoptics.com

LEINZ Eyewear will show in the opti BOXES – the frames “combine the old and the new”

Beate Leinz of LEINZ Eyewear combines state-of-the-art 3D printed material and  acetate in her designs, which allows for a completely fresh aesthetic based on the subject of “contrasts and hybrids”. To read more about Beate Leinz visit our interview at https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/11/beate-leinz-my-brand-is-me/

Weareannu – panto design for 2022 – one of our favourite German labels

A particular highlight at opti will be the vast selection of smaller creative independent brands like Weareannu, producers of very light 3d-printed frames that prioritise maximum comfort with a minimalist feel. Find out more at https://weareannu.com

Opti takes place on Friday 13th May to Sunday 15th May 2022 at the Munich Messe (trade only). There are no longer any access restrictions following the pandemic and masks are not required but are highly recommended. To find out more details visit www.opti.de  Eyestylist will have more tips and recommendations to share on opti in the coming days.

 

100% Optical (UK)

A lively “coming together”: for the optical community / independent eyewear segment represented by brands from Europe and the USA

100% Optical – the British optical fair which took place over three days in April (23rd to 25th) following a postponement from its usual slot in early Spring – has confirmed the 2022 event recorded excellent attendance following the Covid pandemic – at the ExCeL London site in East London.

Alongside education seminars, special presentations and initiatives such as its famous catwalk event and the Love Eyewear Awards – the event also offered a much needed first chance for colleagues and customers to reconnect and meet with industry colleagues.

A further highlight at 100% Optical this year – and one of the fair’s most unique and well presented opportunities for visitors with an interest in innovation and design was the chance to view work submitted for the 100% x RCA Eyewear Design Competition, held in collaboration with students at the Royal College of Art (RCA).

Above: Gotti Switzerland’s new campaign, a feature on the Swiss brand’s stand at 100%. Gotti’s success with lines like the Dimension and Perspective collections in the UK owes much to its careful fusion of technical excellence, lightweight comfort and contemporary, versatile styling

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This year the students were asked to follow the theme ‘reflecting on the past to help us look at each other now and help us see into the future’. The competition was won by Maria Nava for her work “Spectral Objects”.

Thor by Kirk and Kirk: the frame won “men’s frame of the year” in the ‘Love Awards’

Representing the independents of eyewear design were creators and labels from far and wide who presented their new collections at the show. Among them were European and American designers including innovators like Gotti Switzerland, TAVAT, and Lafont Paris;

Morel 30277L: the French eyewear company showed its new collections in London

sustainable eyewear brands like Sea2see and Bird and much loved creators who have an international following including Kirk and Kirk, Erker’s 1879, Struktur, Any Di, l.a.Eyeworks, Ørgreen Optics and Morel. The next edition of 100% Optical will take place on 25 to 27 February 2023. Find out more at www.100percentoptical.com

The eighth edition of 100% Optical London

23rd to 25th April 2022 – ExCel London – extended opening times, from 9am

The long-awaited London fair , 100% Optical will take place this coming weekend at its usual venue, ExCel London after being postponed from dates earlier this year due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The fair promises a lively come-back for Spring, with a wide variety of new product categories, both fashion and technology, highlights in the sustainable and independent eyewear segments, the return of the Love Eyewear Awards, and the colourful 100% catwalk shows, sponsored this year by Transitions.

In the independent eyewear category, Eyestylist presents s selection of collections to help visitors navigate some of the best and most unique labels and creative ranges  showing from around the world at this event. Above: TREE Spectacles from Italy will be represented at the London fair for the first time – this independent brand produces their frames exclusively in Italy and Japan; the  frames are minimal, refined in their details, and propose a mix of bright, pastel and natural colours. www.treespectacles.com

Forsyth by Erker’s 1879

ERKER’s 1879, St Louis, Missouri, USA – Erker’s 1879 will be represented in London by the Erker’s family, Jack, John and their father –  the heritage brand from St Louis has an exciting history and is proud of its consistent approach to high-quality and timeless design. The collections this year propose a diverse and multi-colored collection with many elegant nature-inspired  and patterned acetates alongside the classic Erker’s metal frames which are slim, lightweight, and contemporary in form. https://erkers1879.com

Kirk & Kirk: colour and unique acrylic for eyewear

KIRK AND KIRK, UK – The bold shapes and colours at the UK independent label Kirk & Kirk are always a big attraction at the London show. Jason Kirk will be present to show Kaleidoscope and the vibrant Centiles, which combine two colours and a chunky “out-there” statement style. The frames are all made in custom acrylic, described as recyclable and custom made in France. www.kirkandkirk.com

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Sustainable eyewear trends: the new Mikonos by Sea2see – the frame is made from 100% marine waste

SEA2SEE – Sea2see is a pioneer in the creation of circular  “seastainable” eyewear, producing stylish designs in Italy in 100% marine plastic collected by Sea2see through communities in Africa. A winner of the Optician Award in the UK for its Positano frame in 2020, Sea2see is already an established name in British optical stores, exhibiting that recycled, sustainable materials are key for the future – and can rival other materials in terms of their functionality and fashion style. Founder Francois Van Den Abeele will be at the fair in person. www.sea2see.org

Bird Eyewear from the UK – a new trendy olive tone for model Tawny – which features triple ply wooden temples and a bio-acetate front
BIRD EYEWEAR, UK – For 100% Optical, creator Ed Bird will be launching a new competitively priced bio-acetate range with “ultra-low carbon frames available in a number of classic styles and colours”. The brand has also added a number of vibrant new colourways in the Clarity collection, and will be showcasing their new Birdies range – plant based eyewear and sunglasses for kids, made from Castor seeds. www.findyourbirds.com
The Sunrise by Struktur – an iconic characterful design from the French brand

STRUKTUR, Normandy, France – A recent preview of the Struktur collection from Normandy in France – revealed wonderful developments in the colour palette which – using distinctive matt and shiny finishes – proposes statement neons in red, green, lilac and yellow. The bold architectural fronts are combined with sculpted temples in matching and contrasting tones.  The whole collection by Struktur offers an interesting exploration of French eyewear made in traditional ways and according to highly-skilled artisan traditions. For further details visit www.struktur-eyewear.fr

ANY DI from Germany – using repurposed leather materials from past collections – Suncover Ocean Diamonds

ANY-DI, Germany – Any-Di is a German accessories label with a signature case design that has become well-known in optical circles.  Their most recent collection is made entirely from recycled leather from previous ANY DI releases. Velour and nappa leather are set in an alternating patchwork pattern that creates the effect of waves.  Find out more about the collection at https://any-di.com

100% Optical will take place on 23rd, 24th and 25th April with a new opening time of 9am across the three days. A ribbon cutting ceremony at 9am on Saturday 23rd April will take place to welcome all exhibitors and visitors. 100% Optical’s Love Awards will be announced on 23rd April 2022. The shortlist can be viewed on the 100% website. The organisers have announced this week that the 100% Optical  fair will take place from 25th to 27th February in 2023. For more information about attending the 100% Optical event, visit the site at www.100percentoptical.com

Susie Stone x Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

Celebrating art, eyewear and women

Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses have presented a collection of their unique sunglass designs, alongside works by Susie Stone, the award-winning designer, couturier and artist at a special evening event in London on 31st March. Many of the sunglasses featured at the event at the Eames Fine Art Gallery are portrayed in the artist’s work. Susie and Goldsmith have a mutual affection for personal style and wanted to remind women of how remarkable they are – in a unique way.

Art work by Susie Stone featuring Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

‘How my subjects put clothes and accessories together sets the mood of the painting. I want people to question their own sense of style and individuality; what you wear every day not only affects how the world views you but is also an incredibly powerful tool for how you feel about yourself.’ Susie Stone

Art works by Susie Stone: shown at Eames Fine Art Gallery

Stone’s exhibition of new paintings and silkscreen prints entitled ‘Ensemble’ is on show at Eames Gallery, Bermondsey (London, UK) until 17th April 2022.

About Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses – Established in 1926, Oliver Goldsmith describes the iconic brand as the originator of fashion eyewear; they have produced some of the most famous eyewear in the world, dressing the faces of style icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Princess Grace, Michael Caine and many more.

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About Susie Stone – After receiving a 1st class honours for a degree in Fine Art at Leeds University, Susie’s love of fashion led her into a career as a designer. She opened her first atelier on Bermondsey Street in 2010 making bespoke clothes but after seven years designing and making one-off luxury garments, she decided to pursue her love of fashion illustration. The creative freedom of this process reignited her passion for creating art and informs the content and style of her work today.

Susie’s background in fashion and design has a huge influence on her work. The strength, individuality and style of women is also a constant source of inspiration, and she strives to find the line between fashion and art, seeing how the clothes we wear everyday can be elevated into something more powerful, emotional or abstract. Colour and accessories play a crucial part in this process and devising interesting colour combinations are one of the most distinctive features of her work.

 For more information about the Exhibition, visit https://www.eamesfineart.com/artists/121-susie-stone/works/ and www.olivergoldsmith.com

Historic Fashion Rediscovered

The Fabulous Wardrobe of Countess Greffulhe

Her wardrobe – as well as her life – was the toast and talk of Paris. Elisabeth, Countess Greffulhe (1860-1952) was the epitome of elegance, with an exquisite, enviable wardrobe, the focus of a stunning exhibition at Palais Galleria in Paris.  She was an avid patron of the arts, promoting and encouraging James Whistler; Auguste Rodin and Gustave Moreau; and the ballet impresario Diaghilev and his  Ballet Russes. The Countess was also a supporter of composer Gabriel Fauré, and his Pavane was premiered at a garden party in the Bois de Boulogne that she organised. In addition, she produced and promoted operas including Wagner’s Tristan and Isolde and Twilight of the Gods.

Charles FrÈderic Worth (1825-1895). Robe byzantine portÈe par la Comtesse Greffulhe pour le mariage de sa fille, 1904 - Taffetas lamÈ, soie et filÈ or, tulle de soie, application de paillettes. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
Charles FrÈderic Worth (1825-1895). Robe byzantine portÈe par la Comtesse Greffulhe pour le mariage de sa fille, 1904 – Taffetas lamÈ, soie et filÈ or, tulle de soie, application de paillettes. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Proust immortalised her for posterity as the Duchess of Guermantes in Proust’s novel A La Recherche du Temps Perdu (In Search of Lost Time). The Countess captivated Parisian society with her tireless activities and her glorious wardrobe. She was a fascinating, slender figure in an alluring cloud of tulle, gauze, chiffon and feathers, or in her velvet coats and kimono jackets. The Palais Gallieria displays fifty dresses worn by the Countess, designed by grand couturiers including Fortuny, Worth, Lanvin and Babani.

Charles-Frederick Worth (1825-1895). Tea gown. Velours ciselÈ bleu foncÈ sur fond de satin vert. Dentelle de Valenciennes. Doublure en taffetas changeant vert et bleu, vers 1897. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
Charles-Frederick Worth (1825-1895). Tea gown. Velours ciselÈ bleu foncÈ sur fond de satin vert. Dentelle de Valenciennes. Doublure en taffetas changeant vert et bleu, vers 1897. Galliera, musÈe de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

There are evening and day dresses, coats, accessories, portraits, photographs and films. The exhibition is a marvellous invitation to go “in search of lost fashion”, and to become acquainted with the divine Countess, whose image was inescapably linked with her luxurious wardrobe. La Mode Retrouvée (Fashion Regained) Dresses of Elisabeth, Countess Greffulhe opens 7th November and continues until 20th March 2016. www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr JG