Design + Inspiration

Struktur: feel unique!

French artisan eyewear brand, Struktur puts extensive research and development into every aspect of each frame to ensure they enhance the uniqueness of the individual’s features, always highlighting, rather than overpowering, the wearer’s face. With collections displaying vibrant colourways, innovative materials, exaggerated shapes, and striking sculptural ‘structures’….

Struktur eyewear has drawn its inspiration from architecture and fashion for ten years. According to the brand owners today, Jean François Lufeaux and Thierry Bonhomme: “Our vision is to make the differences that we all have as human beings, a strength. We want our frames to be in line with and to represent the identity of each customer.” Above: Struktur glasses are made in a traditional factory in Northern France

Model Hollywood by Struktur: the acetate has a sculpted look – as if carved from stone

Asked to describe the design process, Struktur’s owners refer to traditional creativity and good old-fashioned drawing. “Hand-drawing is a whole process. We create shapes and after dozens of sketches, there is always one shape that stands out from the others. The computer stage of this process  allows us to finalize the design so that it meets everyone’s expectations – to every extent. Once finished, the acetate material allows the frame to work with and fit the human face.”

The Boards of Deauville by Struktur – a sculpted, solid form – the “rippling” coloration is soft and alluring

Each piece in the collection is developed with minute attention to detail and painstaking precision. The research is based on two points; the ideas for shapes and the innovative techniques in manufacturing eyewear. “For the shapes, we seek inspiration in everything – except the world of eyewear! Architecture, fashion, jewellery, even sport,” explains Thierry Bonhomme. “The technical aspects of eyewear, like the titanium temples are developed over time. During their conception, we first focus on the aesthetic aspects; reflecting on the possibilities of designing two temples that could merge into one. Next, we looked at the mechanical aspects to find a specific opening technique, and finally, we worked on the flexibility and rigidity of titanium. We did many trials to find the right material with the right density and width, before eventually coming to the decision on colour. We also trial over ten colours across multiple prototypes, of which only three might be selected. The research is extensive, to say the least!”

The Singer by Struktur – a bold acetate front combines with titanium temples

Established artisan craftsmanship underlies this careful design work. The Struktur frames are produced at SOLF Production, a manufacturer present in the eyewear industry for over fifty years. “The factory produces frames in acetate and metal. They are truly gifted, with an incomparable talent in the nuances of the craft of spectacle making. SOLF works with many independent brands and some e-commerce sites, supporting its customers throughout the process of designing and making the frames.”

Struktur is one of a group of unique European eyewear brands featuring at the UK’s optical fair – 100% Optical in London – 23-25 April 2022 – www.100percentoptical.com. Find out more about Struktur at https://en.struktur-eyewear.fr

Co-Authored By Clodagh Norton & Victoria G. L. Brunton – All rights reserved

Eyestylist exclusive: Haffmans second collection with Marcus Paul

Collaborations continue to evolve in eyewear

A second sunglasses collaboration from the independent brand Haffmans & Neumeister with stylist Marcus Paul presents sunglasses with a striking and charismatic style that shift from bold and bulky to thin and minimalist, the signature style of the German label. As with many collabs by independent eyewear labels at the present time, the style of the sunglasses series produced with an outside collaborator, allows for a creative freedom and fresh, individualistic perspective.

Model André : Haffmans & Neumeister features ultra bulky Italian acetates in the collection with Marcus Paul – temples are super sleek

The new models are produced in handmade Italian acetate (fronts) and stainless steel sheetmetal (temples), and include four shapes – with a palette that is restrained and classically inspired with lens colours coordinated in demure tones of green, grey and brown. The frames are releasing for the season at selected optical retailers as well as the fashion retailer, Dover Street Market.

Haffmans x Neumeister + Marcus Paul – new model Newton

Marcus Paul is a NYC-based stylist, who has worked extensively with top talents throughout the worlds of music, sports, and art, specializing in image and brand consulting. Paul has developed collaborative projects with Dries Van Noten and Dior and has created editorials seen within the pages of publications from GQ to Vogue.

Haffmans & Neumeister produce a design-led eyewear collection. The brand states that it invests in a carefully balanced fusion of considered simplicity, with quality materials, and conscious in-house manufacturing. www.haffmansneumeister.com  – By Clodagh Norton – All Rights Reserved

Independent eyewear: colours of the season

Beyond the much hyped Pantone colour of the year, the Spring promises a mix up of neutrals, minimal shades and rebellious brights….in the first of a series of tips on colour, we explore three unique looks in independent eyewear collections

Fear not! It’s not just the expressive tone of Very Peri that has caught the eye of the designers in eyewear for Spring. The 2022 mix up throws caution to the wind. In a first peak at what’s coming, we highlight three unique colour groups to brighten the mood.

1.

Gorgeous grey tones are on-trend for the season – Panto model Lava Flava in the lightweight Quantum High collection by Ørgreen Optics. The frame is pictured on the girl in Dark Skin Grey with Mat Orange. The combination is a good example of a new interpretation of eyewear colour with the strong orange creating contrast on the fine narrow temple. The grey tone is  chic and refined and also pairs very well with delicate pastels. Grey is in vogue for men and women. Find more elegant colours at www.orgreenoptics.com

2.

Green tones are flourishing

En mode: a natural green tone pairs perfectly with gold at Lafont Paris: model Julia

This year promises green tones with a vibrancy that feels modern and subtly energising. Tones of mint, sage, olive and pistachio are a nature-lovers paradise of delicacy and style while acid greens pep up darker basics and contrasts. Find the green varieties paired with contrasting colours such as gold or used as a statement tone to re-fresh and revive! For more styles in the Lafont collection visit www.lafont.com

3.

Orange, burnt umber, right through to honey

VADA’s “cosmic classic” model Zero in honey – released this month

The orange tones are equally welcoming and invigorating in 2022, and take in a whole range of bright neons, burnt umbers, Aperol, tangerines, and holistic and healthy honey shades. Like Vada’s circular Zero in a striking, classic honey, the natural brightness of tones in this palette add warmth and energy with a ‘spritz’ of good cheer.  https://vadajewelry.com

Fleye Copenhagen: a universe of joy and colour

The Copenhagen brand announces new state-of-the-art styles in their Silent Noise collection. Among the selection are four new frames created in HDCA – hard density cellulose acetate – a material with many special qualities

New styles in the Silent Noise collection are characterised by an impressive choice of materials, from carbon/wood combinations – a signature look from Fleye, as well as beta-titanium and acetate. The acetate designs use a hard density material which allows for the creation of frames with a minimal width and depth, providing a very slim and pared-back look while retaining a beautiful glow. Above: model wears the patterned version of model Elsie in the Silent Noise collection – the exquisite coloration offers a wonderfully fun and quirky statement

Model Elsie by Fleye Copenhagen – featuring the beautiful acetate material used by the brand

The frames released include 14 styles in total, the 4 acetate frames, 7 new carbon/wood frames and 3 new beta-titanium frames with subtle details. Each design is representative of the silent movie star Asta Nielsen and “her ability to create a universe full of expression without the use of words.”

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Fleye Copenhagen: the titanium design Margit is subtle and expresssive – a beautiful frame choice for 2022
Stella by Fleye Copenhagen: an almond shape is feminine and full of character

In Silent Noise, a concept first launched by Fleye in September 2021, the design team was inspired by the lifestyle of Asta Nielsen. From an experiment with shattered glass as a symbol of champagne glasses, pearls and feathers and the different movements of the elements which created beautiful shadows and lightnings, unique concepts of design and colour were translated into designs and patterns in the eyewear styles.

A note on Fleye’s HDCA: FLEYE’s acetate frames are made of HDCA (Hard Density Cellulose Acetate) – a special, compressed acetate for ultra-thin, lightweight frames. The acetate frames can be created with a highly polished finish or can be sandblasted to a completely matte finish. Additionally, they can be formed in any shape while weighing extremely little. These features means that there is plenty of room to be creative with form, pattern design and colour combinations. 
For more information about the brand, visit www.fleye.dk

Shortcuts to chic: 2022 starts here

New year eyewear with the ‘feelgood factor’ offers an instant pick-me-up for those who love their style on point – an Eyestylist Trend Feature

As the new year gets underway, the latest looks are inspiring with multifarious themes. Classical, timeless aesthetics will remain one of the big trends of ’22, with new specs and sunglass styles informed by the shapes of older , iconic ones – but fresh details and design twists will redefine the looks, and new factors will establish new rules for what’s hot and exciting to wear. First and foremost, a mix of materials from very high grade acetates to cutting-edge 3d printed styles allows us a wide choice of options for comfort and ease-of-wear, while the prevailing mood for creative design excellence, the revival of artisanal precision and a desire for more sustainable products with a greater lifespan are factors that will play a consistent role in what we choose to wear. Above – A little sparkle in a frame is elegant and sassy: Yolanda by Vera Wang with crystal details – part of a new sophisticated offering – www.kenmarkeyewear.com

Classical details such as the keyhole nose bridge are hugely popular: Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses model Hep

With people increasingly aware of the toll that fast fashion takes on the environment, quality and longevity in a fashion product are features that consumers want. Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses creates frames which you can own for life. The quality construction and elegant hardware replicate some of their earliest and most iconic designs, while the bevelling and finish adds a subtle twist that’s hot right now. Frames like these will never go out of fashion: www.olivergoldsmith.com

Feelgood eyewear: 3D printed products are comfy and long-lasting – as well as striking: Sadry by Gotti Switzerland

3D printed eyewear is a growing niche with high-end independent producers creating the finest and most innovative design ranges in this area. Gotti Switzerland’s Dimension collection is one of them, with styles such as Sadry – a frame with a sculpted or bevelled appearance and an interesting palette of natural colours ranging from mocca and berry to slate and stone. www.gotti.ch

Bassett by Seraphin Eyewear: a wearable modified square shape

Eyewear can be an instant mood booster, especially if the style offers a new look or a more modern,  smarter, or more professional demeanour. Square frames, such as Seraphin’s Bassett above, were a huge success in recent months and will continue to be a go-to shape especially where the rims offer definition. Choose a frame where the quality of the material and its construction shine through. Find Bassett and more acetate frames in the Seraphin collection by OGI Eyewear at www.ogieyewear.com