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Eyestylist exclusive: Cinematic chic at Fleye Copenhagen

New inspiration at the Danish label, delving into the world of the silent movie

Silent Noise, a new line launching this month at the Danish design label Fleye Copenhagen, is born out of exciting inspirational ideas drawn from the life and personality of silent movie actress, Asta Nielsen (known most often as Die Asta). Nielsen was a leading lady in the cinema in the 1910s  – she moved to Germany to pursue her successful career, and was also a real fashion icon of her time. She had dark brown eyes and hair, and became famous for her diva-like, colorful and expressive character, on and off screen.

Jesta by Fleye Copenhagen: an expression of the new directions for the autumn/winter season – light, subtle, with sophisticated decorative pattern

The designers took a trip down memory lane to the post-war era which brought them to their inspiration. By visualizing Nielsen and the diva lifestyle she lived for many years, they experimented with shattered glass – a symbol of champagne glasses, and shadows and feathers to capture the mood of the silent movies and the actress’s story, “without words”.

Fleye Copenhagen: a complex study of the actress’s lifestyle led to inspiration for the unique colorations

Inspired by movie posters of the era, and the work with the inspirational environment, the new colorways and engravings are expressive and beautiful – sometimes contrasting in colour and expression. A few designs have a solid dark front with a colorful contrasting back, while others are  feminine but powerful – almost oversized, or thinner with a strong character; each one a symbol of Asta Nielsen’s person and memserising way of life. For more information: www.fleye.dk

Independent eyewear: Olympic silver medalist Mamona created capsule with VAVA

Portugal’s VAVA Eyewear has produced a capsule collection from castor beans – with Olympic athlete Patricia Mamona

In their latest innovative work in eyewear, VAVA collaborated with triple jump athlete Patricia Mamona – the inspirational sports woman, European triple jump Champion (Poland 2021) and Silver medalist at the Tokyo Olympics representing Portugal (1st August 2021).

The collaborative collection features model CL0016 – a powerful sports fashion hybrid design which incorporates sustainable, organic materials and the latest in 3D-printing technology. Conceived through VAVA’s keen interest in body in motion, the frame can be adjusted to the wearer’s personal silhouette and physiognomy and special features include optional windshields to protect eyes from wind and particles. The very snug fit of the hinges improves the stability of the frame during sport.

Futuristic design – model CL0016 in Capsule collection by Patricia Mamona x VAVA

Available in limited production the Mamona sports frame is available in a run of 100 numbered pieces (in a white version) whilst the black frame (above) is available in a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces. Other colours available include yellow, red and green.

About the 3D printing technology used at VAVA: VAVA’s 3D-printed frames are created with high quality polyamide bio-based powder, made from castor oil. Rilsan® Invent by Arkema is a natural polyamide 11 fine powder made from a 100% renewable source (castor beans). The castor beans used to produce oil for the bio-based plastic are sourced from a cooperative of certified farmers in the Gujarat region of India.3D printing technology allows the adoption and design of complex sustainable yewear frames with advanced functional and stylistic features. Find out more at https://vavaeyewear.com

No ordinary colour

A look ahead at a new and inspiring colour palette

A vast selection of green hues, natural browns and reds, and earthy stone-like finishes make up a new palette – clearly inspired by the visual beauty of the natural world, and the biomaterials that are arriving in force in the eyewear sector. With the change in season will come a change in mood both in colour and texture, in interactions between rough and smooth, dark and light, solid and transparent, and highly saturated or washed out tonal variations. Above: Hapter’s avantgarde High Line frames have an unconventional tactile surface with a suggestion of intense tones which include Phoenician purple, leaf orange, right through to musk green, and Persian red, www.hapter.it

Flanna by EOE – gravel matt – tones that are nearly black or inspired by dark minerals and natural materials will be desirable next season

The square eco acetate frame Flanna at EOE Eyewear comes in colours inspired by the landscapes of northern Sweden, with tones such as matt gravel and light bark – pine. EOE Eyewear is consistent in referencing the co-founders’ homelands; their inspiration from the land and its flora and fauna, rock formations or textures, is both imaginative and inspiring. www.eoe-eyewear.com

Sacrées Mirettes – Lille, France

‘Opticien Lunetier Responsable’ – Sacrées Mirettes – by Sarah & Flo – opened in December 2020 during the pandemic

Sacrées Mirettes is an eyewear boutique located in Vieux Lille, the historic area of Lille, France. Though the store is situated in beautiful surroundings, steeped in history and culture within a bustling city, the business and founders Sarah and Flo did not have the warmest welcome into the retail world. Opening in December last year in the midst of the current pandemic was no easy feat; between curfews, lockdowns and newly imposed laws to tackle COVID-19, it is a testament to Sacrées Mirettes and everyone involved in its set up to have made such a strong start, in spite of everything.

The store specialises in responsible, high quality brands and features an interesting mix of frame styles

Vieux Lille itself is known for its colorful houses, charming restaurants, bars, and its streets of independently owned shop fronts – amongst which Sacrées Mirettes can be found. The boutique faces onto the impactful Notre Dame de la Treille; this cathedral is a stunning piece of unconventional French architecture.

Upon entry, the shop has a warm and comforting atmosphere – the founders designed the space alongside architect Quentin Glorieux with the intent to put their customers at ease, allowing them to shop and browse in homely surroundings. The warmth in the colour palettes used throughout – from the wooden floorboards to the rose coloured feature wall in the back of the store – really radiates the attention paid by all involved in implementing this interior.

The collections available include Lunettes Alf and Gotti Switzerland

As well as being aesthetically lovely, Sacrées Mirettes also focuses on sustainability and environmental responsibility. The founders aim to raise awareness about the impact of the optical industry and do so by stocking responsible and high quality brands including Clément Lunetier, Oscar Magnuson, Vue DC, FOLC, Aude Herouard and Gotti Switzerland, among many others.

An independent boutique in an historic city that survived the toughest of beginnings and one that is making strives towards an eco-friendly world of optics is undeniably admirable, impressive, and definitely worth a visit. By Victoria Brunton for Eyestylist.com.

Sacrées Mirettes, 15 bis Rue du Cirque, 59800 Lille, France www.sacreesmirettes.com/opticien_lille/collections/

Children’s design: Eyestylist trend forecast

Accessing style, colour and unique materials for young people

While choice is wide for children today, glasses with a design focus and an individual style can be hard to come by. In our latest TREND bulletin – launched via Issuu this week, we provide content on leading designers and labels of note who have a specialism in this area. Studying what’s out there and what’s new for the younger ages is a pleasure in this small niche, as independent designers who produce the smallest frames take the utmost care over the selection of kid-friendly materials, colours and colour mixes and flattering eyewear shapes that are desirable and wearable, whatever the look. Above: Air Titanium by LINDBERG – LINDBERG’s children’s range continues to be a favorite choice for its balance of style, comfort and tasteful Danish design. The titanium styles are highly flexible, lightweight, hypoallergenic, and durable and the timeless minimal design is easy and natural on children’s faces. Customised colours mean that it is possible to find just the right one! www.LINDBERG.com

Fun and chic! Mini Be Addict – from Sabine B

Addict in the Mini Be collection by designer Sabine Vagner – and the series of models in this French design range – offer superior style elements, cheery colour pairings and tiny design features such as idiosyncratic rivets, flashes of neon and quirky temple tip shapes that reflect a contemporary feel for kids with plenty of energy and ‘joie de vivre’. Sabine’s lively and original colour combinations and often extraordinary shapes or details are always considered in combination with particular attention to the comfort and fit, owing to Sabine’s former work in optometry and her family’s optician business. www.sabinebe.fr

Timeless design: the Ile au Tresor by Lafont Paris

Lafont’s reputation for exquisite French design never disappoints in the kid’s and teens collections. With their unique and classic style and beautiful materials including elegant floral fabrics, children can benefit from a fine, chic style that will never go out of vogue.  Their model ‘Ile au Tresor’ (above) with its soft geometric eye shape is one of our highlighted frames in the Eyestylist trend bulletin. www.lafont.com

Sustainable trends are for children too – model 3 by BioBio in Copenhagen

As sustainability becomes a greater priority and focus for many brands in fashion and eyewear, so too this year in the children’s eyewear collections. Newcomer BioBio makes frames for the whole family and their Danish roots ensure design quality and a minimal ‘no-fuss’ style in eco-friendly materials such as Mazzuchelli’s well-known M49 bio-acetate. https://biobioeyewear.com/

To find our recommended selection of children’s collections for 2021, and our insight on colours, materials and shapes for glasses and sunglasses in this age group, visit the link at : www.eyestylist.com/trend-bulletin-issue-4/