Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 17th November 2021

Eyestylist exclusive: HAUSKA TAVATA on trends in Japan

HAUSKA TAVATA is an optical store /showroom in Yokohama City, Japan and a distributor of exclusive eyewear, including RES/REI from Italy. Eyestylist was delighted to ask Meiko Takata and her colleagues about trends in Japan and their approach to eyewear selection –  for those who enjoy a truly unique frame. An interview feature by Clodagh Norton.

Tell us about HAUSKA TAVATA and how you work? Miyao: HAUSKA TAVATA is an optical store open mainly by appointment. HAUSKA means “Fun” and TAVATA means “Meet” – together it means “Nice to meet you” in Finnish. We named it so that it could be a place where customers meet their new ‘self’. Our aim is to provide eyewear and services that will enhance the lives of our customers. We have a staff member who is qualified as a personal colour analyst, who can determine the colours of clothing and make-up that harmonize with a customer’s skin complexion, eye colour, and hair colour allowing us to propose a palette of tones for each individual customer we see.

How did you get into eyewear and optics in the first place? Maruyama: Initially, I was producing precision parts for office equipment and cameras. I was familiar with metal and synthetic resin materials so I was interested in materials, function and eyewear design. I was also enjoying spectacles as a fashionable product. One day I met a small brand called ELEMENTS in Hong Kong. I was totally thrilled when I first visited SILMO and saw designs that I had never seen in Japan before. In 2014, we exhibited ELEMENTS at the International Optical Fair Tokyo (IOFT) in Japan and received an award (Eyewear of the Year in the Men’s category). The following year, we introduced the handmade wooden Finnish brand KRAA KRAA in IOFT and received the Eyewear of the Year award (Function and Technology category). This encouraged me and I was able to start our optical store HAUSKA TAVATA, a store that introduces independent designer brands that are functional, well designed and use various materials. I am happy to be able to work with passionate designers and friendly staff members even in the current difficult economic situation due to COVID-19. Above: The Team at HAUSKA TAVATA Meiko Takata, Optician (left); Hideyuki Miyao, Optician/Store Manager (centre); Kazumi Yoshida, Optician/Personal Colour Analyst (right)

Managing Director of HAUSKA TAVATA – Takashi Maruyama (right) visiting the atelier of Gouverneur Audigier

What would you say Japanese customers wish to wear most this year in terms of eyewear materials? Metal or acetate? Heavy rims or minimal? Natural sustainable materials or classics like titanium or acetate? Miyao: We are seeing an increase in the number of customers who would like eyewear made from sustainable materials. These customers pay attention to spectacles made of wood or buffalo horn that we have in our shop. However, the reality is that there are many people who do not pay special attention to materials. Titanium and acetates are certainly popular with customers in Japan this year.

Are there any eyewear trends in Japan right now that are very cool? Miyao: I feel the current trend is to be sustainable and to feel the diversity and unique qualities of every brand. Currently there is a good retail atmosphere in Japan, and customers can choose items that they can sympathize with from a wide variety of brands, from traditional designs to products made using 3D printers, and eyewear that is more eco-friendly.

Takata: In Japan, wearing sunglasses is not part of the culture here yet and people wear sunglasses less in their everyday life. At IOFT this Autumn, there were sunglasses designs with very light colored lenses which allow the eyes of the wearer to be seen. This will provide people with more choice when they want to protect their eyes from UV rays. The new lenses with partially shaded colour tints were proposed in pink, yellow, or grey – they provide effects that are like eye make-up when a user puts them on their face.

The number of people working from home has increased and this has raised the number of people purchasing new spectacles or starting to wear spectacles. I heard there are more people who are more aware of their eyewear due to the need to wear when on video conferences.

Showroom: exclusive viewings at the new HAUSKA TAVATA HQ

Maruyama: Eyewear made from sustainable materials such as bio plastics and green plastics is a new cool trend in Japan. At the trade fair IOFT, I saw some frames and hinges that decompose in the ocean or underground and eventually becomes carbon dioxide and water in 1 to 3 years.

Can you think of anything interesting about how your customers buy frames. Do they have one frame or many? One frame for all day and evening or other buying patterns and habits that you can explain? Miyao: The surveys suggest that people usually buy one pair of spectacles. In Japan, it seems that there is still little awareness of using multiple styles. However, this is not the case for our customers. Many of them are fond of eyewear and they are particular about quality and design. There is a customer who has purchased seven different colours of a particular model. Some customers come to us to find eyewear that nobody wears in the city. Some customers switch to acetate frames on the weekends and metal frames for weekdays! Each customer has different ways of approaching their frame and I enjoy that.

Customer at HAUSKA TAVATA

Yoshida: I feel many of our customers have been wearing a lot of eyeglasses in their lives. Many people come to our store looking for eyewear that is really different, or they want a different style from their current frame… or perhaps spectacles that will make them look fashionable in serious business occasions. There are many fashionable customers who enjoy wearing unique frames to fit their personality.

What are your favourite styles right now, and if you personally wear spectacles can you tell us what you are wearing? Miyao: I try to wear frames that I like – as simple as that. I feel proud when I go out wearing my favorite pairs. I use blue or green colour lenses and I like how the sky, the sea, the forests, and the mountains look more beautiful and vivid with these lenses. My wife sometimes doesn’t want to walk with me because wearing this type of coloured lenses makes you stand out, however that doesn’t stop me from wearing them! Wearing favorite frames with confidence, is my favourite style. I wear brand Bruno Chaussignand’s frames often these days. There is a model that is inspired by Mount Fuji. I was surprised when I found it!

Customers in new styles at HAUSKA TAVATA

Yoshida: These days, I wear a mask when I go out, so I choose a frame that matches the mask and eye makeup and brightens the impression of my face. When I am at home, I want to feel relaxed so I choose light and comfortable spectacles. I currently enjoy wearing RES/REI frames with rich and beautiful acetate colours, and I use a metal frame by a Japanese independent designer brand from Fukui prefecture, SHU KUMEDA – it is very light and comfortable.

Takata: My favorite styles right now are the spectacle styles that match my hairstyle (especially the fringe because I have short hair) and my clothing. I have a favourite which is a Finnish custom-made wooden frame by KRAA KRAA in navy. It is made using a Finnish woodwork technique and doesn’t have any hinges so it is light and the colour applied to birch wood is nice and matches skin tones. – www.hauskatavata.com

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| Eyestylist 11th November 2021

Danish eyewear: Ultimate comfort at Ørgreen Optics

Simple, authentic styles released in comfortable, light, minimal materials

Among their many releases across collections this week, the appeal of the ultra-thin, minimalist styles in Imaginary Lines heralds a definite trend towards the ultimate comfort charged up with vibrant colours. In this line, titanium is the material of choice, and the frames feature super thin silhouettes that sit delicately and easily on the face, lightweight, and free from decoration in a pared back style that works so well. Above: Imaginary Lines series by Danish eyewear label Ørgreen Optics: model Eastern is a medium sized frame in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium

Western: one of three new styles in the Imaginary Lines collection

Where the constructions are minimal and refined in titanium, colour and colour combinations are introduced in such a way as to bring a cool, contemporary vibe here. The company is one of the best when it comes to a palette of tones that look fresh and modern whilst also being well suited to – and enhancing – to work aesthetically on the face.

Bermuda: colours inspired by fashion + design trends, and redefined for the face – in matt red with matt light white gold

Model Bermuda is an excellent choice for women in this selection, produced in colour combinations such as matt brown with shiny gold or matt ice blue with shiny silver. Its lightweight look is sleek and elegant for women while the oval shape is versatile. No corners have been cut in the matching of the warm, flattering colour combinations, of which the matt red and matt light white gold is bright and well defined – yet balanced with finesse for an easy wintery upgrade that would look good for months to come. Find out more about the new styles at www.orgreenoptics.com

| Eyestylist 9th November 2021

4 of the best: bold shades of blue

The blue tones for the season are bright, even electric

Inspired by the catwalk, street style and nature’s bounty, the new tones of blue in eyewear are intense and bold, with varieties that offer solid colour as well as transparencies and multi toned patterns. From Tuareg shades to natural ocean hues, the quality of the materials and the creative vision of the designers come together to add a dash of blue freshness and modernity to the collections – a very good alternative to the classic ‘darker’ tones we might more typically wear at this point in the year. Above: the new Finn model in the Kaleidoscope collection by Kirk & Kirk (https://kirkandkirk.com), in Italian acrylic. The colour is called “Capri”, inspired by the shores of the Mediterranean island – the material has a translucent quality

Jazzy in the Issy & LA range by Lafont Paris – an exciting patterned blue

Patterns are unequivocally a look this season in eyewear, often inspired by vintage acetate colorations as well as marbling and stone-like textures. Model Jazzy at Lafont Paris is one of the finest patterned versions we’ve spotted, mixing warm and cool tones to spectacular effect: www.lafont.com

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Duc by Vue DC: the bevelled surfaces radiate light and colour

Model Duc is a memorable design from Vue DC, the French artisan label. The translucent blue is enhanced by the beveling of the surfaces, for an eye-catching result, as it “frames” the eyes. www.vuedc.com

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Photography & Graphic Design! – theo / Matali Crasset ‘Now or never’

At theo the new ‘Now or never’ designs promote a stylish, bold mood, with elegant structures by Matali Crasset, the French artist and designer. The signature theo colour palette includes daring ‘solid’ hues of electric blue (above) as well as other brilliant brights like orange and acid green. www.theo.be

| Eyestylist 8th November 2021

70s anyday: Vippvedel by EOE Eyewear

Step out with a bold and hippiesque style

Named after a rare flower, this new-season, attention-grabbing aviator is ideal as optical or sun style, a distinctive and expressive version of the classic shape with a unique bridge – the opening is symbolic of the shape of the rare alpine plant. Above: an on-trend look for the winter season, which welcomes eclectic influences from many different decades, including the 1970s

Vippvedel is the name of a rare flower growing in the mountains from Härjedalen to the northernmost part of Sweden

Model Vippvedel is part of the Carved collection at sustainable design company EOE Eyewear, a line inspired by craftsmanship and classic Northern carving techniques. The effect gives a beautiful, geometric and sharp expression which for this frame is the essence of the look – a move away from the classical more rounded pilot shape. In a palette rooted in natural organic hues inspired by the terrains of Swedish Lapland, the frame comes in three colours of Northern black honey, Rosehip light bark, and Honey northern black. The sunglass versions have beautiful delicate orange gradient, gold gradient or Northern black gradient (pictured) lenses. Find out more at www.eoe-eyewear.com

| Eyestylist 4th November 2021

Beate Leinz: “My brand is me”

Beate Leinz may not be a household name (yet), but she is responsible for designing some iconic frames in the world of eyewear – some of which provide inspiration for other brands and makers to this day. Designing for PRADA, Tom Ford and Yohji Yamamoto, Leinz has a ‘claim to fame’ or two – now she has set out on her own, to create a collection of iconic frames with her own aesthetic, for a change: LEINZ Eyewear.

What was the beginning of your journey? Did you always know you wanted to work in accessories?  Oh, I think at that time in my life the word ‘accessories’ didn’t even exist in my world; I was young, it was 1985. In terms of the ignition of my journey, I knew I had to learn a lot about design and production. After high school I started an apprenticeship as a watchmaker – I was really thrown in the deep end, learning how to fix watches with a monocle on my eye on an extremely technical level. Although the technical drawing really stood to me later in life – when I first started in eyewear this experience and background was invaluable. The technicalities in watchmaking and eyewear are not the same, but the method in which they are practiced is almost identical. I didn’t stay in watch making because… my watches never really worked! I’m not such a technical thinker, more of an aesthetic constructor. That is why goldsmithing was more my world; that’s where I went next. I worked with the jewellery designer Wilhelm T. Mattar in Cologne who I still admire deeply today. I think of him as more of an artist, he creates art in the shape of jewellery. I learned a lot from him that I practice in the creation of my frames today.

LEINZ Eyewear: attention to detail, and innovative material combinations

Would you say that you implement your learning from that period in your life into your designs now? Yes, absolutely. I think it’s more in the aesthetic rather than the technical side – the base is beauty – you bring what you feel inside and create something beautiful with it. First, you need to understand what it is, what makes something beautiful; something is beautiful when it reaches your heart – not only your eyes, like a beautiful person – it’s deeper than that. Mattar and I discussed this a lot in our work together and I still think about it when I design and create.

You’ve worked for some absolute giants in the fashion industry, tell us about your time there…Yes! I worked for Prada, Tom Ford and Yohji Yamamoto, being a part of these brands was exciting and a highlight in my life, absolutely. For Prada, I worked in a team of designers, we worked on the theme “minimal baroque” – the theme of Prada’s show that year. The team worked tirelessly to contribute to and design a pair of truly iconic frames. I complemented the spiral design on the arms with the best matching fronts. The frames ended up being sold really successfully, so much so they are still copied to this day. Of course seeing the success of my designs was a huge confidence boost; it erased any doubts I had and proved to me I was capable of creating something special. Design is a process; you have to try, try and try again to find something that is widely accepted and adored by the market, whilst still creating something innovative and new.

LEINZ Eyewear : a glam mix of acetate and 3D printed material

Was it the success of these iconic frame designs that encouraged you to start your own brand? It was and it wasn’t – I mean that in the sense that the desire to do so was always there, but of course this success brought me reassurance and confidence as I mentioned. I think it only pushed me further towards finally getting the courage to do what I had always wanted to do. Even when I was in Cologne all those years ago, I met with a producer from Denmark who created some prototypes of my designs – of course at the time I didn’t have enough money or experience to start my own brand – but the urge to do so was certainly there. I realise now the amount of work and creativity that goes into inventing a revolutionary and iconic frame. Although my earlier design successes are credited to another label, I know thats what I signed up for. You put so much into something, and then you give the work up and its gone. But I am proud of that.  All the same I feel thrilled to see my own name on my own work for a change.

Tell us a little about LEINZ Eyewear? I mean, to put it simply; my brand is me. There is not much else to add!

We’d love to hear a bit more about your latest collection…The inspiration for my latest collection came from my desire to “re-invent” 3D printing, giving it a bit of a “glow-up” as my daughter says. I am also in love with acetate as a material, so this provides the perfect contrast to the 3D printed material – I think contrast is necessary in all design, in materials, colours, tones and textures; that’s what my work and my design is about, it’s important to me. This collection brings that contrast to another level; the frames are deconstruct-able and they each incorporate two tones / colours, this is not something typically done in 3D printing. There are a lot of brown tones in the collection, it’s incredibly on trend at the moment and I love the colour. The structure of the frame itself has a fluctuating wave of density throughout, flowing seamlessly from lens to arm. Each section of the frame was printed as its own independent shape – endless combinations of contrasting colours. I’m eager to see how this will succeed in the market, because I love bulky frames.

In terms of sustainability, where does LEINZ Eyewear stand?  I am passionate about sustainability and the world we live in, it’s nothing other than fact to say we are part of a world that over-consumes. However, I think in the world of eyewear over-consumption is not the major problem – some people hang on to glasses for years, there isn’t as intense of a desire to keep up with trends in comparison with the rest of the fashion industry. Packaging, display props, care tools and cases is where our area of waste and destruction lies, and it is here that I am trying to create as little waste as possible within LEINZ Eyewear; our display stands and cases are made of recycled leather and are recyclable. I hope to have zero-waste surrounding my frames in the near future. For more information visit www.leinzeyewear.com. (Instagram: @leinzeyewear) This feature interview took place on Zoom after SILMO 2021. Written by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com.