Eyestylist

Munich fair: Opti excitement!

1st December 2017

The international optics and eyewear design trade show Opti – which takes place at the Fairground Messe München – is preparing for its 2018 edition from 12th to 14th January in Germany. The event attracts creative designers, optical entrepreneurs, business and fashion experts and continues to grow its position as a leading event for the optical industry across Europe, and a meeting place for designers, innovators and creatives. Above: Falvin Eyewear from Denmark: an independent label that first exhibited at Opti in 2016 in the HOT area, designed for newcomers. Today Falvin exhibits with international eyewear companies in Hall C1 – www.falvineyewear.com

The fair attracts companies and designers of many nationalities, and highlights Europe’s independent creative eyewear segment.

Jean-François Rey has exhibited in Munich since the fair first launched there. For this edition, the French brand promises many brand new releases across its collections, including new concepts ‘Double Jeu’ and ‘Fender’; the company also told Eyestylist they will launch an ultralight metal collection called SOHO and a new wood carbon concept for Jean-François Rey. A highlight is the designer’s iconic styles from the 80s in the line called “1985”. Since its release two years ago, the collection continues to grow with models like Stanford (above) – designed as a faithful replica of the original frame with a few subtle modifications for a slightly contemporary edge. www.jfrey.fr

L.G.R. has achieved extremely high levels of quality and uniqueness in the artisan production of their eyewear which has become synonymous with innovation and creativity.

Model Addis, an ophthalmic D-frame, is a perfect example of their ability to produce impeccably crafted glasses with a nod to classic shapes of the past. L.G.R’s 2018 designs -including frames highlighted in the latest campaign – will be on show in Germany, where the brand has already gained a strong following from the luxury independent boutiques. www.lgrworld.com

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Danish design company Ørgreen has had a succession of new launches in 2017, and the momentum for this continues. They recently announced a new line in lightweight titanium steel, with focus on the classic tortoise patterning. The colour is applied to the Japanese titanium frame by hand, meaning that every pair of their tortoise frames will be slightly different. Offered in six of Ørgreen’s most recent styles (Columbus, Vitus, Lemon, Vasco, Snow, and Rain), this selection for both men and women adds a classic twist to Ørgreen’s highly contemporary minimalist aesthetic. More will be revealed at Opti: www.orgreenoptics.com

From Denmark: Monoqool 3d printed eyewear

Monoqool’s ability to make 3d printed frames that are style-oriented, light to wear and extremely well designed and finished is underlined in its new 2018 entries which are very thin and produced in interesting colours.The company exhibits in the YES!-area, OPTI’s space for design labels showcasing new trends and innovations. CEO Allan Petersen told Eyestylist the company is preparing brand new releases for the Opti fair. More details coming soon: www.monoqool.com

Opti takes place annually at the beginning of the year and is held at Fairground Munich. As the international trade show for optics & design, it presents the entire spectrum of optics ranging from frames, ophthalmic lenses, contact lenses and low-vision products to shop set-up, technical equipment and devices. This makes Opti a platform for product premieres by international market leaders and start-up companies alike. Since 2008, the show has been run by GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH. Since then Opti has shown continual growth. The trade show was held for the first time ever in 1998. For more information: www.opti.de CN

Design + Inspiration

Churchill’s reading spectacles go on sale

30th November 2017

Antique expert Catherine Southon is including a pair of Sir Winston Churchill’s tortoiseshell spectacles made by his opticians C. W. Dixey & Sons in a Christmas auction on Wednesday, 6th December 2017. The auction will be held at Farleigh Golf Club, near Croydon, UK, not far from Churchill’s Kent residence, and the spectacles are estimated to sell for up to £2,000.

The full rimmed round glasses with white dot to tip of each arm, contained within a leather spectacle case embossed C.W.Dixey & Son London 1777, together with a typed statement from Director of C. W. Dixey Mr P. Varnes verifying that the spectacles were made for Winston Churchill and claiming ‘usually three pairs of spectacles were made to Churchill’s prescription and kept at the Cavendish Square showroom later the Wigmore Street practice. After Churchill’s death C.W. Dixey had three pairs of Churchill’s spectacles still in their possession. It is believed one pair were given to Chartwell, one pair auctioned in 2011 and this is the final pair.

The spectacles were give to the present owner by Mr P. Varnes Director of Dixey and Sons, as the present owner, also an optician, was developing a new range of spectacles in the style of Churchill and Mr Varnes said he should ‘have the real thing’.

Churchill was very fond of his distinctive eyewear – either half-eye or the fully round style which were tailored for specific purposes and marked accordingly. The metal dots in the corner of the frame indicate its purpose – one dot for reading only and two dots for speeches, but he also had specially made glasses for sketching, painting, or card playing.

The wartime prime minister was often seen wearing the circular tortoiseshell spectacles in his later years. He had several made, so he would always have spares and if there was anything wrong with them, they would then be left with opticians Dixey for repairs.

Catherine said: “We are absolutely delighted to be offering a pair of Winston Churchill’s spectacles, especially as this area is very proud of its Churchill connection. His spectacles are as iconic as his cigar and hat. We expect a lot of interest both here and abroad as Churchill memorabilia is always very collectable.”

C W Dixey – Chartwell 01 and 02 are modern versions of the original spectacle styles worn by Churchill

Today, the British spectacle makers C W Dixey & Son produce a range of classical designs including a faithful replica of Sir Winston’s legendary circular frames, model Chartwell 01, picture above. More details on the line at http://www.cwdixeyandson.com/range.php

Further details on the auction visit www.catherinesouthon.co.uk / More about CW Dixey on Eyestylist.com: https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/02/men-and-their-glasses/ CN

Update – 11th December: The spectacles sold for £6000. (£7,296 incl. Premium and VAT). The spectacles were veryfied by a typed letter from the director of the opticians.

Arts + travel

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion V&A London

30th November 2017

Since the renowned Spanish couturier created his first fashion collection, it was Balenciaga’s time-honoured tradition to create fine quality designs that inspired, endured and were relished by his customers. This year, two museums have hosted exhibitions celebrating the designer – Musee Bourdelle in Paris, www.eyestylist.com/balenciaga – and currently at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London is Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. Top image: The Balloon hem silk taffeta evening dress Cristobal Balenciaga Paris 1954 Victoria and Albert Museum London

Cristobal Balenciaga at work, 1968 Paris France Photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum Photos

Diana Vreeland, the iconic editor of American Vogue in the 1960’s and early 70’s proclaimed: “For twenty years, Balenciaga was the prophet of nearly every major change in silhouette.” Christian Dior pronounced: “Haute couture is like an orchestra whose conductor is Balenciaga.”

Wild silk evening dress (detail), Cristobal Balenciaga with embroidery by Lesage, 1960-2 Paris France Victoria & Albert Museum, London

The designs are characterised by their sculptural quality, deft manipulation of textiles, and dynamic use of colours and textures. Inspiration derived from many sources: his own Spanish heritage; influences from 19th century dress; and the Japanese kimono.

Spiral silk hat Cristobal Balenciaga (Eisa label) Spain 1962 Victoria & Albert Museum

The V&A exhibition showcases over one hundred garments and hats by Balenciaga, his pupils, and contemporary designers inspired by his innovation. Jacqueline Kennedy; Pauline de Rothschild; Gloria Guinness; Greta Garbo; and Mona von Bismarck; were among his notable clients in the 1950’s and 60’s. To view his beautifully tailored suits and exquisite evening dresses is to witness a master class in couture art. Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is sponsored by American Express at the V&A, and continues until 18th February 2018. www.vam.ac.uk JG

Design + Inspiration

Style, imagination and beauty: Götti Dimension

27th November 2017

Years of research, patience, exploration, and dedication radiate in Sven Götti’s 3D printed eyewear collection – Dimension. The newest breakthrough technology allows design concepts and ideas to be integrated into innovative designs that unite opulence and minimalism. Top image: Pabek in Moss

Enriq sunglasses in Ash Silver by Götti Dimension

Superb swiss craftsmanship is reflected in the lightweight designs with colour and finishes that are silky soft, plus comfortable fit and sleek styling. Enjoy the video and discover the individualistic and technical know-how for Götti Dimension.

Sven Götti reflected: “For over twenty years, glasses from Götti have been characterised by a carefully developed and purist formal language. The result of this 3D development is an in-house production of high precision printed glasses.

“With Götti Dimension, we are getting a step ahead and taking inspiration from contemporary, dynamic and fast-moving trends, while still remaining faithful to our design philosophy. For our company it’s a new challenge, but also the best way to produce the frames in our own factory. It’s our joy to realise a high-quality product from the first idea to the last production step with our great team.” www.gotti.ch JG

Reviews

Sunglasses at night: Lool Eyewear

27th November 2017

Non Stop City – a night edition

Launched last month at the Paris fair SILMO, Non Stop City is a bold “night” sunglasses collection – and perhaps the ultimate “clubbing” accessory, by the young Barcelona start-up, Lool Eyewear.

Inspired by club culture, urban living and streetwear fashion, the futuristic frame designs are fitted with NSC SYSTEM photochromatic lenses. The glasses are able to adapt to changes of light, darkening during the day and lightening at night, while a luminescent ‘neon-like’ line profiles the lens.

Designed by Aris Rubio, these made-in-Barcelona “nocturnal” glasses are specially designed for style conscious “non stop urban dwellers”, clubbers and “night owls”, with the lightweight construction, comfort and slimline proportions of the brand’s mainline collection which is influenced by architectural concepts and retrofuturism.

Lool Eyewear launched their first steel eyewear collections at SILMO in 2016 and have received a warm reception from the design, fashion and eyewear worlds for their technical precision and commitment to innovative ideas and top-notch production. For Lool’s new projects, visit www.looleyewear.com. CN

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