Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 15th February 2016

Trends: Folding focus

A frame which folds away provides the perfect balance of style on the move and convenience. Folding frames have been around for decades (above, vintage design at Specstacular, Shoreditch, London), and several brands like Persol have continued, through the years, to reproduce their classic folding designs, including the PO0714 “Steve McQueen” sunglasses – in updated designs with new technology.

Cellor by Persol : folding version
Cellor by Persol : folding version

Others are rekindling designs from their archives – a delightful example was shown at Lunor during the Munich eyewear fair – or coming up with completely new concepts for tidying frames away.

Tajo by Gotti Switzerland
Tajo by Gotti Switzerland

Gotti Switzerland launched their “Spin & Stow” concept in 2011. Rather than folding at the bridge or along the temple, these frames have a “rotating” mechanism at the temple so that the arms lay flat across the frame front when not in use. A special flat case has been designed to accommodate the glasses when not in use, very handy for many situations. The Götti Spin & Stow innovation is patented and has been distinguished with multiple awards (GERMAN DESIGN AWARD 2014, IF Product Design Award, red dot Design Award and V. AWARD Technology HK). Further details at www.gotti.ch

Movitra
Movitra Living Spectacles

Other noteworthy examples? A new entry from Italy, Movitra Living Spectacles proposes a cool round eye shape with a patented design system, developed by experts in micromechanical components production, and created to protect the Carl Zeiss lenses from damage. The temples of the design fold away on both sides of the lenses, protecting them on either side when not being worn. www.movitraspectacles.com CN

 

| Eyestylist 12th February 2016

Eyewear Canine Companion Ruby

Eyestylist continues the Eyewear Canine Companion series and today we meet Ruby – “the best employee at Niloca” says owner and Niloca designer Colin Redmond in Australia.

Have you had Ruby since she was a puppy? “Ruby was actually born on St. Valentine’s day in 2009, and we picked her up as a puppy from the breeders on Easter weekend. She is an Airedale Terrier and our best employee.”

Can you please describe Ruby’s daily routine? “Ruby has her own fan base in our new location, which features a floor to ceiling glass frontage: this is where she bases herself on a restored 1930’s Art Deco arm chair. People walk by and can’t help but smile. During winter, she stays the entire day – only raising her head for pats from people walking in – and bringing treats I might add! The only other time she gets out of the chair is when a supplier visits and brings a tray of macaroons  – then it’s game on! Ruby’s main task might be a little surprising, as she is actually a very good judge of character. At day’s end we walk home together, sometimes stopping at the grocery store – where she gets more pats. The only time she’s not walking is during wet weather – her feet are made of sugar!”

Anyone for Fetch? A Swim?
Anyone for Fetch? A Swim?

What are some of Ruby’s special characteristics? “She has a snorting latex pig that she loves playing with – the snorter died in 30 seconds, but the pig remains. We found it in Paris years ago and she loves it. Now every overseas trip I have to buy a latex pig. One year I ran out of time, and she wouldn’t come for pats for a whole week. Luckily now I can buy the pigs at the local pet store if I ever forget. Sometimes if Ruby has been up all night chasing possums, she will be tired, and sleep solidly through the day.”

"I found a stick"
“I found a stick”

Has walking with your dog ever triggered a design idea? “I named a frame after her and it turned out to be the biggest selling frame I’ve designed. However, she did inspire a frame four years ago, and it will be presented at MIDO. Ruby and I were on the beach and what triggered the idea was a new yacht. The combination of materials were beautifully combined and technically advanced. The idea produced sketches that could not be produced until now, and the end result is pretty amazing. It will be another ‘eyewear first’ for our young design company.”

Ruby and child minding duties
Ruby and child minding duties

Does Ruby travel with you? “Ruby has travelled once to our outback workshop in Dubbo – a rural farming town and she loved it. Apart from that, Ruby whimpers when I start packing the bags for overseas – I don’t think she’d enjoy 24+ hour journeys. One time, I found Ruby sitting in my suitcase, looking up at me with big puppy eyes. The other place I take her is in the car to our country retreat. It’s a great place for me to refine designs and be inspired by nature’s offerings.”

Ruby Road Trip
Ruby Road Trip

Please tell us about Ruby’s watercolour portrait (to be unveiled in Milan) – is an animal portrait artist doing this? “Haha – it’s me! I was taught watercolours, which are a great medium that I don’t get enough time to indulge in. ”

Ruby at her country retreat
Ruby at her country retreat

Anything else you would like to add about your canine companion? “Without her there is no Niloca Eyewear. Ruby is part of the family, she is so much a part of our passion for life and love for what we do. Everyone that sees her smiles – she is the essence of good with a sense of humour to match, when you need it. A very instinctive and caring companion.” www.niloca.com JG

| Eyestylist 11th February 2016

Hibiscus by Res/Rei

Res/Rei Eyestylist – Res/Rei’s expertise in quality acetates and colour combinations is striking in the Flower Collection, where two colours meet for a curious, eye-catching effect. Hibiscus offers a well-defined balance of timeless design and contemporary colour twists that immediately underlines the craftsmanship and dedication to precision handcrafting – and carefully selected high-quality materials from Mazzuchelli. Available in honey/pastel blue, pastel beige, coral orange, and choco petrol green, the shape is like a wayfarer but with a slight lift on either side, enhanced by gently tinted lenses. www.resrei.com CN

| Eyestylist 10th February 2016

Golden Sophistication: Catherine von Specht

At a particularly beautiful wedding reception in the heart of Provence in France, sitting across from me was a lovely, chic woman wearing superbly crafted and luxurious refined jewellery. I commented on her necklace, and she replied: “Thank you – I designed this necklace.” Consequently, I was fortunate to meet Parisian jewellery designer Catherine von Specht (above) of Umbellina, who creates original one-of-a-kind necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings.

18K Gold earrings with Colombian Emeralds and Diamonds in a Sapphire glass medallion by CVS
18K Gold earrings with Colombian Emeralds and Diamonds in a Sapphire glass medallion by CVS

The pure simplicity, united with premium quality materials – exquisite jewels and fine gold – highlight the stunning designs. She discovered her passion for jewellery and gold, and created her first designs in Hamburg. Having lived in France, England, and Germany, plus travelling globally with her German husband, von Specht’s perspective and intuition reflects serenity and harmony in her jewellery.

18K gold, Pink Sapphire and Diamond bracelet by CVS
18K gold, Pink Sapphire and Diamond bracelet by CVS

Perfect balance in the lines and symmetry of her creations, further enhance her elegant expressions. Certain designs have little messages engraved on the metal or medallions. The result is always unique and personal. Umbellina creations are sold in select shops in Paris, Munich, Miami and Los Angeles. Von Specht also works with perspective clients so they can select their own metal and stones, achieving the jewellery design of their dreams. www.umbellina.com JG

 

 

| Eyestylist 9th February 2016

100% London: 2016 directions

This weekend’s London optics fair at Excel saw several international launches and a growing attendance of international visitors, designers and fashion brands. Silhouette from Austria chose the show for the UK launch of Neubau Eyewear, their new youthful design-oriented brand dedicated to a modern urban audience and inspired by a young artistic neighbourhood in Vienna.

Neubau Eyewear / Silhouette
Design trends: Alex in Copper by Neubau Eyewear / Silhouette

Drawing on Silhouette’s rich history and high quality Austrian manufacturing, the optical collection includes 12 models in six colours with full rim metals – highlights were shiny finishes in copper and bright gold – and multicoloured SPX shapes (available June 2016). A sunglasses collection, inspired by Silhouette’s historic eyewear archive and previewed at 100% will launch later in the year. www.neubau-eyewear.com

Henau
M 2101 by Henau Eyewear

Further highlights included an increase in small independent labels in attendance at the show.  Henau from Belgium showed creative acetate sunglasses and opticals. Their unconventional trendsetting shapes show a commitment to variety, detail and original colours, recurring themes across the stands at 100%. Henau model M 2101 represents a modern pentagon shape with a bridge designed for an easy, comfortable fit. A new website launched last week at www.henau-eyewear.com/en

Hooper by Salt Optics
Hooper by Salt Optics

Model Hooper by Salt Optics was one of the ophthalmic styles selected for the 100% catwalk this weekend. The eloquent combination front has a tiny double rivet on both sides, perfectly in tune with the elegant lines and very narrow temples. www.saltoptics.com

Claire Goldsmith
Representing the UK at 100%: Claire Goldsmith

British brands were out in full force at 100%; London’s iconic Savile Row (www.savileroweyewear.com) and Oliver Goldsmith collections (www.clairegoldsmith.com / www.olivergoldsmith.com) –  highlighted quality and finesse in British eyewear, while design label Kirk & Kirk showed their unique style and love of audacious colour in the transparent acrylic Kaleidoscope Collection, www.kirkandkirk.com.

100% Optical represents a new chapter for the UK market as a showcase for eyewear fashion and, in particular, the specialised independent eyewear producers, both local and international. The dates for the show in 2017 have been confirmed as 4th to 6th February 2017. http://www.100percentoptical.com CN