Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 1st March 2014

Papier Glacé – A Century of Fashion Photography

Coming Into Fashion with Condé Nast at Palais Galliera

1st March 2014 The rich archives of Condé Nast New York, Paris, Milan and London brings together in this exhibition 150 mostly original prints from leading fashion photographers from 1918 through to the present day. Images from Henry Clarke, Cecil Beaton and Deborah Turbeville, Norman Parkinson, Horst P Horst, the elegant photos of John Rawlings, who had 66 VOGUE covers, plus Herb Ritts and Irving Penn are among the photographers included.

John Rawlings for American Vogue 1943
John Rawlings for American Vogue 1943

Viewing the photos is a pleasure, as they are well placed to appreciate the creativity, originality and dreamy contexts of the images. Although fashion photography hovers between realism and fiction, the images in Condé Nast publications generally veer towards dreams. In fact, Irving Penn, a Vogue photographer from 1943 to 2004 said: “I always felt we were selling dreams, not clothes.”

The photos are accompanied by fifteen haute couture items from the collections of the Palais Galliera. Two reading rooms provide access to over fifty magazines, plus there are contemporary films projected on a large screen, that provide a glimpse of the possible future of fashion photography. The exhibition continues through 25th May 2014. www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr JG

Henry Clarke for French Vogue May 1951
Henry Clarke for French Vogue May 1951

Photos: All images copyright Condé Nast. Top Image: Edward Steinchen, American Vogue, December 1923

| Eyestylist 1st March 2014

Hall of Frame – Utrecht

1st March 2014  Etienne Frederiks and Jolana Reinink of Hall of Frame in Holland share with Eyestylist the history of their boutique.

 “We opened the shop in 2008,” says Frederiks, “and Jolanda and I (above photo) wanted to start a little boutique where we could sell things we liked ourselves. In Utrecht, in the middle of the country, there was no such place. We were fantasising about this over a coffee, when we saw a broker hanging up a “For Rent” sign in this beautiful location. Without a plan, we decided to start at that very moment, and agreed with the agent to rent the place. We only wanted to sell what we liked ourselves, and the best brands for us at the moment are Garrett Leight and Suzy Glam. We also love other brands with a strong identity like Mykita, Moscot and Lunettes Kollektion. In addition to this, our collection of vintage frames is getting better and bigger.

Sleek and chic interior of Hall of Frame Utrecht
Sleek and chic interior of Hall of Frame Utrecht

“For the interior, we searched ourselves for some unique furniture. We wanted an interior that looks exclusive – but accessible. More a fashion store than an optical shop. We are always the first in the Netherlands showing the newest Moscot collection and often we are the only shop in the Netherlands with some limited editions. And of course, we stock the entire Suzy Glam collection. (Etienne’s partner is Suzy Glam designer Susanne Klemm).

 

Natural wood enhances frame display at Hall of Frame Utrecht
Natural wood enhances frame display at Hall of Frame Utrecht

“Retro is still the big thing, but a lot of these styles can be bought now at internet shops or chains. So we are looking for new shapes – metal and acetate combinations, good fittings for different faces, and real good design. For us, business is good, but it’s a pity most opticians don’t choose a specific direction – independent shops suit independent labels.” www.hallofframe.eu JG

 

| Eyestylist 1st March 2014

Spring/Summer at Alexia

One-of-a-kind scarves by British designer

1st March 2014 Scarves are into a new era. Several independent designers are giving them a new stylish lease of life with a fresh take on how to wear them to make a modern style statement. British fashion designer Alexia Parmigiani creates a range of beautiful scarves, ponchos and kaftans in luxurious fabrics with brightly coloured exotic prints. For Spring/Summer, find florals and jungle motifs, designed into brightly coloured wonderland fabrics. Alexia is always true to her mantra, proposing, in each feminine design a creation that is “more than a scarf”. Her fabrics are sensual and delicate – silk satin, silk georgette and cotton voile and the designs and colour schemes will sweep you away to dream places…Woodstock, the Riviera, Malibu and Palm Springs.

Eyestylist first met the west-London based designer Alexia Parmigiani at London’s popular fashion event Scoop – www.scoop-international.com. Her Spring/Summer look book pairs Alexia’s exciting designs with eyewear by Moo Piyasombatkul. The new collection by Alexia  launches this week at Tranoi, Paris (Carrousel Du Louvre, Gabriel Delorme stand M02).

Alexia Fashion
Alexia Fashion

 

Alexia Fashion
Alexia Fashion

To see the full Spring/Summer collection and buy online visit www.AlexiaFashion.co.uk CN

 

| Eyestylist 1st March 2014

Jérémy Tarian

1st March 2014 His tall, lithe figure is silhouetted against Parisian landmark buildings – Eglise Saint Germain des Près, and Aux Deux Magots – the latter the favourite café of Jean-Paul Satre, Simone de Beauvoir and other literary luminaries. In his own metier, Jérémy is an eyewear designer of international acclaim. Paris is an inspriation for Tarian – The Left Bank being a favourite and familiar haunt, while The Marais is another source of energy and reference. Streets, buildings, and history all inspire his work. But so do travel, people, museums, nature, architecture – in fact – life itself.

We settle comfortably at Deux Magots, and over delicious coffee, Jérémy relates his eyewear odyssey. “I designed my first fame for myself, as ‘revenge’ because I needed to wear glasses from the age of eight.” However, his “revenge” evolved into a continuing unbridled passion for eyewear. He worked at ic! berlin for two years – where he won his first Silmo d’Or – before setting up his own business three years ago. In 2012 he captured his second Silmo d’Or – the eyewear equivalent of a Bafta or Oscar trophy – for his sunglass design Saintonge. Tarian’s sunglasses and optical frames can now be found in over 200 boutiques worldwide.

 

Parisian Sophistication - Saint Germain by Jérémy Tarian
Parisian Sophistication – Saint Germain by Jérémy Tarian

How does his design process work? “When I design, I really need to concentrate only on design, and I find this more and more necessary. I just cannot say ‘oh well, I’ll take an hour and design'”, explains Tarian. He also finds his master classes in eyewear design at HEAD (Geneva University of Art and Design/Switzerland) have a reflection in his work. “I find that working with the students opens me to new ideas. Glasses are not just a product, but also a personality on the face. I find that talking with the students, and listening to their stories, who are from all over the world, comes into my thinking.

Tarian draws each line, curve and detail of a frame design, and he says: “My designs now are very different from when I began five years ago. I focus more on comfort, and I can see how just one millimetre can change everything. Harmony is important – how the shape will fit on the face. I love working in acetate and metal, and there are so many things to explore with these two materials. For the collection in the autumn, we are experimenting with new textures, using these two elements.” The Tarian Collection is also eco-friendly, and only the finest quality acetate is used in his designs.

Cosmopolitan Flair by Jérémy Tarian
Cosmopolitan Flair – Zurich by Jérémy Tarian

“For independent designers, it’s so important to keep independent in terms of product, and to explain the brand philosophy,” says Tarian. His original, unique and desirable frames contribute to making eyewear such an exciting accessory with creative design and style. www.jeremytarian.com JG

| Eyestylist 28th February 2014

Obsession

Lafont Paris

This very elegant frame masterfully mixes a retro spirit with haute technology. Stainless steel is superbly crafted in Obsession by Lafont Paris, and softened with gentle tri-colour aqua tones. A special handmade gradient coating adds to the beauty, style and sophistication of the design. Click on www.lafont.com for more information on their new collection. JG