Eyestylist

Layering up is not just for winter apparel…layered effects in eyewear are popular again….

Layer upon layer of design details and fine materials, worked in beautiful ways! One of the most eye-catching trends of the moment in eyewear involves exceptional know-how and craft finesse, to create depth and unique twists in the structure of the frame. At Silmo in September, a variety of fine independent eyewear collections featured a particular example of such detailing, in different materials with all kinds of interesting and sometimes dramatic effects. Playing with layers for the exciting structures that can be explored, or using them to create a special mood or character in the frame, the effect of this design work on the face will reveal individuality and a nuanced expression, calling attention to the wearer’s unique personality and individual traits. Above: Layer 2 by FACE A FACE is one of the new highlights in the French collection this season. Two shapes are layered on top of one another, hence the name, Layer. The playful way in which this is achieved is further explored through the combination of the two colours which, layered together, reveal a third. The finely sculpted details of the wings add a further touch of subtle sophistication. www.faceaface-paris.com

At Veronika Wildgruber, structure and architectural influences are a common thread from one collection to the next. The new model Pris has an aluminium bar running across the top as a defining structural element, reminiscent of the stark, functional lines characteristic of Brutalist architecture. The smooth acetate surface contrasts sharply with the rigid aluminium layer on top, emphasising the striking character of these glasses. The round lenses and horizontal bar mirror the Brutalist principles of exposed materials and structural elements. www.veronikawildgruber.com

The “shape in shape in shape” concept has fascinated the design team at Andy Wolf for some time. Model 4820 is a medium-sized feminine combination frame combining three different shapes in a wonderfully layered design using acetate in clear and patterned tones with a fine metal wire. www.andy-wolf.com

Model Lonzo by l.a.Eyeworks exemplifies a contemporary frame aesthetic that offers over-sized proportions refined by precise bevels that reveal layers of colour – the technical virtuosity permits a beautiful colour contrast with interesting light effects. www.laeyeworks.com

REWIND’s Happy Birthday style with diamanté is particular in its shaping at the upper rim where a transparent blue section appears to overlap a darker blue with a very pretty, feminine lightness. In this way, the diamanté crystals are highlighted in the top section where they have been meticulously hand-set to add a luxurious sparkle. www.rewindeyewear.com

The audacious new Jenny optical style at the French eyewear compan yMorel features a layered effect – in a light transparent acetate – over the top rim of the frame front. By using a transparent material with a tiny dotted pattern over the intensely coloured red, the design takes on a more individualistic and artsy feel and the play of light around the design is elevated to create something eye-catching and different for the eyes. www.morel-france.com

The acetate style Bastian by Spanish eyewear company Jisco explores a particularly popular look where the acetate layers are built up in different colours. In this green/black variation, both the front and the temples feature the layered look for a bold statement structure that is notably influenced by vintage icons of the past. www.jiscoeyewear.com

The layering effects are also observed in some metal collections. The designers at Parasite Eyewear have release some creative examples in their Organisme models which have steel structures decorated with a layer of colour in a bright organic formation across the front and the sides of the designs – appearing as if painted on the metal by hand. www.parasite-eyewear.com