Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 23rd November 2013

Spectacles, from need to refinery

A new spectacles edition from Norway, written by Bjørn L.G. Braathen

23rd November 2013 Norwegian author, eyewear enthusiast and photographer, Bjørn L.G. Braathen has been interested in spectacles since he was 15, and worked with eyewear in the late 70s, selling original designs from the 1940s and 50s. His new book released last month, “Spectacles – from need to finery” is published by Orage (Norway) and charts a personal journey and interest in vintage eyewear; the book also highlights two exhibitions by the author, one of which is taking place in Norway to accompany the release of the book. It features an essay by psychologist, Reidar Hjermann on why people like to see and be seen in glasses.

Portrait of the author
Portrait of the author

Braathen commented, “I have seen and collected many spectacles over the years. I used to be a barrister but I have always been interested in design and particularly eyewear. My book is the result of my studies and the two exhibitions, in Rome, previously, and now Norway, that display my collection with photos of the same glasses on many people; the aim is to give an insight into how people influence spectacles and how spectacles influence people.”

The illustrations in the book include Braathen’s own series of portraits as well as interesting pictures of vintage glasses, including early goggles, examples of antique spectacles, early advertising campaign imagery, and a colourful array of spectacles cases. The book is written in Norwegian with an English translation.

Spectacles, from need to refinery is now available at Bentleys in Walton Street, London – [email protected] and online at www.tanum.no/forfattere/Braathen,%20Bjørn%20L.%20G CN

| Eyestylist 22nd November 2013

On Site at Silhouette

A Visit to Linz Headquarters

22nd November 2013 For many year I’ve written about Silhouette eyewear, and heard about the outstanding production of the iconic frames that takes place in Linz Austria. So it was a pleasure to finally visit the hub of activity and see Silhouette in action. On a visit to Austria, on a sun-drenched morning, the taxi pulled up to the entrance of Silhouette Headquarters, and I entered the Silhouette universe that has been creating eyewear news for almost fifty years. The pristine white building is nestled off a main road in Linz, surrounded by lovely flowers and trees. It’s a serene setting for the multi-faceted activity that takes place inside.

Arnold Schmied and his wife Anneliese, started Silhouette in 1964, and in the intervening years, the company has grown into a global firm with worldwide distribution. Their success has been achieved by adhering to their founding principles. “The Silhouette experience is based  around lightness and style: we relate to lightness and authenticity,” says Christian Hafner, Brand Manager, “and Silhouette is not a fashion brand – we are classic and timeless with sophistication. From the very beginning, the Silhouette passion was to make great eyewear. Customers need the best glasses in the world in terms of quality, look, design and not hiding the personality. We have a deep understanding of what the customer wants.”

SilTMA424740_6054
Titan Minimal Art by Silhouette

Man and machines blend harmoniously at Silhouette – the result of special training by the company, so employees know the correct handling of complex machinery. The personnel are highly skilled and the precision tools used in the process of creating the frames are all professionally cleaned, polished and cared for with meticulous upkeep. There are between 180 and 260 process steps that are part of each frame – depending on the design. Hand processes are an intricate part of the frame making, and each person responsible for the delicate manoeuvres necessary excel at their profession. Everything in the factory is eco-friendly with great care and consideration for the employees, as well as the materials with which they are working.

Next year, Silhouette will mark their 50th anniversary – celebration plans are under wraps at the moment, but no doubt they will be exciting, and move the company into a new era. Christian Hafner commented that royalty and many people in public life wear Silhouette, who know and demand quality and discreetness. The Silhouette story is a tribute to a global company who has embraced the technical and style evolutions through the years, and been able to retain the founding fathers concepts of quality and design. www.silhouette.com JG

| Eyestylist 19th November 2013

The gift of…handmade shoes

19th November 2013 Caroline Groves produces shoes that you might have thought you could only dream of. But here they are, like something out of a fairytale, theatrical, beautifully formed, exquisitely embroidered, the ultimate in bespoke handcrafted designs.

I met Groves at a recent fashion event. “I produce bespoke orders – each one uniquely designed and handmade for the customer. I trained as a traditional bespoke shoemaker; I now work with many luxurious materials, vintage silks, velvet, calf and suede and some unusual ones.”

Typical of her creations are the Betty Boop platforms – Gypsy Rosie – created in smooth black velvet with roses and forget-me-nots embroidered by hand by Alice Archer. Every addition is carefully sourced, from the precious antique buckles on this style to the unexpected exotic Parakeet wings and vintage silks in “Turquoise Parakeet” (below).

Parakeet wing silk peep toe sandals, Caroline Groves
Parakeet wing silk peep toe sandals, Caroline Groves

For those wishing to commission a pair of these extraordinary handmade shoes for a loved one, Groves has created a new gift certificate – an elegantly crafted stiff black envelope – inspired by Victorian keepsakes –  with an embroidered toile design. Inside an embossed invitation card promises the bearer the ‘gift of a pair of couture shoes made for you by hand by Caroline Groves’.

Caroline Groves Couture Shoes - Gypsy Rosie
Caroline Groves Couture Shoes – Gypsy Rosie

From £2,500 the gift certificate will give the recipient an unparalleled service, explained the designer. It includes three one-on-one personal fittings. The result will be a pair of bespoke shoes made entirely by hand around a last that is made specifically for your foot’s shape. The perfect present? Find out more about bespoke commissions by Caroline Groves: [email protected]  www.carolinegroves.co.uk CN

| Eyestylist 15th November 2013

Fine Art Eyewear

Elegant Unison of Materials at Leisure Society

15th November 2013 Shane Baum is a master at designing eyewear that resembles fine art. His newest collection pays tribute to acclaimed philosophers with frames that are unique and distinctive. Rodrigues (above) features a keyhole bridge and bold metal insets on the front. Highly intricate multi-dimensional laser etching is applied to titanium with beautiful enamel insets. The temple tips are available in 12k, 18K, or 24k gold on pure titanium, combined with Japanese cotton-based acetate. The lenses are coated with Diamond Cast anti-scratch coating – completing a frame with precisely engineered components and meticulous attention to detail.

 

The Scholarly Nietzsche by Shane Baum at Leisure Society
The Scholarly Nietzsche by Shane Baum at Leisure Society

The 19th Century philosopher Nietzsche is honoured in a  scholarly round frame with contemporary styling. Laser etching, enamel insets and white gold plated temple tips ensure that the frame is crafted similar to the finest jewellery. Nietzsche is available in chic tones of Matte Smoke (above) Black and Tortoise. Each Leisure Society frame is individually numbered and handmade in Japan by superb artisan craftsmen. Pure luxury for your eyes! www.leisure-society.com JG

| Eyestylist 14th November 2013

Hello my name is Paul Smith at the Design Museum, London

 

14th November 2013 An exhibition about Paul Smith’s journey in fashion opens tomorrow at the Design Museum, London. It is a wonderful, positive story. At a press launch in June, Smith talked about the tiny store he first opened in Nottingham and the Afghan hound Homer who probably took up much of that tiny space where his fashion retail journey began; he related with great enthusiasm many of his personal experiences and thoughts on his career which will be highlighted throughout the exhibition, which he personally recommended not just to adults but children too.

Paul Smith, Melrose Avenue
Paul Smith, Melrose Avenue

Charting the full story of the fashion label from Nottingham to its Paris launch in the 70s and its growth and expansion worldwide, there will be opportunities to see a recreation of Paul Smith’s idiosyncratic personal office and projections, film clips and behind-the-scenes footage of the inner workings of the brand – plus a showcase of the many clothing collections and shops themselves such as the Melrose Place one (above), each one unique. A book, published by Rizzoli, has been released to coincide with the exhibition; we’ve yet to get our hands on it. Exhibition runs to 9 March 2014. CN

Further details: www.designmuseum.org www.paulsmith.co.uk CN