Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 21st November 2024

Vidal Erkohen, eyewear designer + founder of RVS

Vidal Erkohen is the founder of RVS Eyewear, as well as working as an eyewear designer behind multiple independent brands. His most recently launched collection is a sports eyewear line for Perfect Game, the world’s largest baseball scouting organization. In 2025, Erkohen plans to bring RVS back into the eyewear spotlight with a brand new collection….

It’s a long time since we caught up here on Eyestylist.com. Do you continue to evolve the RVS by V collection from your base in New York City? It truly has and it’s great to be back. Eyestylist has continued to be a leader in the industry and we are all lucky to have such an informative outlet for independent and main stream eyewear. Thank you!
Although I have been very busy with designing, manufacturing and providing creative direction for multiple brands through out the years RVS has always been at the core of everything I do. Since 2020, I decided to pause on new designs and have only been supplying a handful of our classics directly to our loyal consumers worldwide.
That being said, I’m happy to finally break the silence and inform you that RVS by V will be back in full swing starting in 2025 with a fresh new vibrant collection and will also be available for wholesale purchase worldwide via a select few of our most loyal partners through out the years. If you followed us before I’m sure you know that whatever is coming, it definitely will not be boring! 😎  Above: Vidal Erkohen – pictured wearing “See a clean future” Water sunglasses in collaboration with Mission Blue (Sylvia Earle)
Iconic styles by RVS Eyewear – the brand launched in 2007 at Selima Optique – originally as a 25 piece collection
The last few years have seen some developments in the industry as regards sustainability. How have you pivoted in this direction?
Could you explain the See A Clear Future concept and RVS SUSTAIN. What is your view on eyewear materials and how they are evolving? The developments prior and since have been tremendous and it’s a breath of fresh air to see more and more designers and manufacturers moving their materials and production towards more eco-friendly solutions.
I think this is just the beginning and we will continue to see very clever solutions that minimize our carbon foot print in everything we create. As RVS, we learned a lot through our “See a clean future” project and aim to incorporate this in all of our future projects as well.
See a Clean Future – a sustainable eyewear project developed by Erkohen
See A Clean Future incorporates four different lens options which correspond to the elements that make up our world: Earth, Water, Fire, and Air. They tell a story of ECO-HOPE by linking each concept with a hero from our time: Sylvia Earle (Water), Jane Goodall (Earth), Wangari Maathai (Air), and E. O. Wilson (Fire). Each of the aforementioned have provided inspirational words that correspond to the assigned element, which are inscribed on both the inside of the sunglass frames and the lens cloths. Using natural materials.
The frames are produced in innovative materials from the renowned Italian Mazzucchelli company using their M49 bio-plastic, which is eco-friendly, recyclable, and biodegradable. The bioplastic is produced from cotton linters and wood fibers, which are purified into a pulp and then transformed into a resin known as M49.

All the metal inlays as well as temple hinges are made of stainless steel—a recyclable product. The steel is coated with ion plating, which protects the surface and allows the engraving of the frames. Ion plating is a physical vapor deposition process that uses concurrent or periodic bombardment of the substrate with aluminum, which is recyclable and non-toxic to the environment.

The sunglass lenses revert to the traditional use of glass. Typically, lenses are made from polycarbonate plastic but See A Clean Future lenses are made from natural mineral glass produced in Japan. Glass lenses are not only more environmentally sustainable, but also ensure precision clarity and a more refined aesthetic, which is harder to achieve with traditional plastic lenses.

See a Clean Future – installation by Ugo Rondinone
3. We noticed you are working with the artist Ugo Rondinone for your packaging. How did this collaboration come about? Yes, this was a truly amazing experience as Ugo was a friend of the art initiative  “One, all, every” that we partnered up with for this project.
Using natural materials, Rondinone designed the packaging, the ether, or fifth element that contains all others (air, water, earth & fire).
When we launched the project at Art Basel Switzerland as well as later in Miami, our booth was made of 15 feet tall walls covered in real soil taken from his native town in Switzerland.
These walls were later cut in to 10 x 10 individual pieces and sold as limited edition artworks along with all 4 sunglasses all signed by Ugo with a portion of the proceeds given to each respective environmentalist organization.
It was a real labour of love and an unforgettable experience working with such tremendous minds.
Perfect Game Eyewear – a recent project
4. Do you continue to work as a Creative Director for other eyewear brands and what is your favourite project of 2024?
Yes, and to be honest this has taken a big chunk of my time for the last few years hence my absence from RVS. It’s been a treat to work with other creatives while sharing my experience in the industry and building new brands from the ground up. My latest project, Perfect Game Eyewear is a brand new field for me (sports eyewear) which has been extremely exciting.
Perfect Game is the world’s largest baseball scouting organization holding over 5000 events nationwide year long while working closely with the MLB.
To date, more then 2034 players that have played in perfect game events have also played in Major League Baseball. Since 2003, 14,466 perfect game alumni have been selected in the MLB first year amateur player draft.
Following PG’s exclusive deal with Oakley coming to an end we were able to secure a 10 year licensing deal with Perfect Game via our licensing company PROformance Eyewear and will be designing, distributing and manufacturing all PG Eyewear sunglasses moving forward.
Our proprietary “Diamond lens technology” which I created after almost 2 years of research and development is the first of its kind to focus solely on the game of baseball to enhance game play for both pitchers and batters alike. This is just the beginning as we are planning a huge expansion for this brand in terms of technology, design and reach.
5. What are you working on for 2025?  Along with the relaunch of RVS which I am most excited for, I am currently also working on a new brand (also my own) which although I can not give to much information about will bring a fresh new concept to the industry. I always like to go the exact opposite direction of where everyone else is going. This will be no different.
Vintage eyewear is one of Vidal’s passions: pictured, a very early pre Persol Ratti 714 folding style (1930’s). “Most likely a very early prototype to the 714 that would be introduced many years later. Simply signed “Ratti” with the old school Pelican logo”
6. Are you still a passionate collector of vintage eyewear and do you have a favourite design which you acquired recently. Do you still study vintage eyewear as part of your inspiration?
My passion for vintage eyewear is really what got me started in the industry and restoring vintage frames is how I got to know the ins and the outs of eyewear production itself. I still spend at least an hour of my day doing research on frames of the past with my expertise now focusing on materials that are seldomly used such as genuine tortoiseshell, solid gold, unusual hinge technologies and more! I’m a sucker for nostalgia and manufacturing of the past still hold a big space in my design inspiration. Of course, I’m still a Persol fanatic as at one time I owned one of the largest private Persol (Ratti) collections in the world. It’s the only brand my father used to wear and it always holds a sweet spot in my heart.Good design never goes out of style.

| Eyestylist 19th November 2024

Trends: burgundy and bordeaux tones in eyewear

Burgundy pieces are trending in fashion this month, ahead of the festive period – the hue (and many iterations of it!) has also made its way into the eyewear collections this season with success, given its flattering warm overtones that are enlivening for skin tones in the colder, winter months – Pantone has already identified the colour “Windsor wine” as a key tone into 2025

The trending deeper shades of burgundy and bordeaux are a dream for the autumn/winter season in eyewear, a complement for winter apparel and the darkest shades of brown and black, cold weather staples that can feel drab without a dash of brightness or intense deep hues. From full-bodied wine tones of bordeaux and burgundy to a dark berry infused palette with a hint of deep rouge and pink for gradients, these deep delicious colours are attractive and flattering, and commonly associated with this moment in the season evoking elegance and natural good taste. Above: complementary tones of burgundy and amber feature in the two-tone ophthalmic model Intagli 151, from the Lamarca eyewear collection, www.lamarcaeyewear.com

Totes by l.a.Eyeworks

Model Totes from l.a.Eyeworks perfectly expresses the wine-inspired colour direction with this elegant ‘Malbec’ colour way, informed by the purple grape variety used in making red wine. This frame combines a chunky acetate front and sleek stainless steel temples and comes in other striking colours such as Nebula and Yam – www.laeyeworks.com

Bayria Eyewear – Tres Moles

The new collection at Bayria Eyewear – inspired by Bauhaus – features Tres Moles, a striking, irregular “wavy” silhouette in Italian acetate, which comes in several elegant colours including the gradient bordeaux to light crystal featured above. www.bayriaeyewear.com

The Stratos by Struktur in wine berry – a frame for men who want a bold yet refined look

The Stratos is by the French artisan label, Struktur and features in their Equilibrio collection. The wine berry tone shows how this colour palette can work easily for men as well as for women. The acetate is polished and meticulously carved to create the subtle bevels, creating a luminous dimension around the frame, enhancing the hue with refinement and natural style.  www.struktur-eyewear.fr

Model Cotton by Kaleos

At Kaleos, a series of frames have been produced in deep tones of bordeaux including sunglass styles. For the woman’s optical frame, model Cotton, the brownish bordeaux front pictured above is matched with a translucent pink acetate for temples. www.kaleoscollection.com

Countdown by rewind

{rewind} proposes a mottled effect with burgundy and pink flecks –  in this handmade design with eye-catching bevelled edges. While on trend, these colours will remain timeless and perfectly in tune with wintery moments of the year. See more colours at www.rewindeyewear.com

| Eyestylist 18th November 2024

Clara Besnard upcycled design: Morph alpha

The Morph alpha design won the Silmo d’Or – Prix Special du Jury – earlier this season – the design is remarkable for its unusual mix of avant-garde and retro influences  

Clara Besnard, the Brussels-based artist and designer, designed a unique tentacle-like creation born from the archive of eyewear brand Parasite and vintage acetate frames. The design won the Prix Special du Jury at Silmo this year, a prize which is given to recognise a particularly outstanding and innovative design.

The frame is made entirely of spare parts and old frames sourced from the workshops of Parasite and the Brussels-based vintage optical shop, Bidules (www.bidules.be). The artist and designer handcrafted the design as a system of tentacles, with its main roots formed from a Parasite MORPH V01 (2003) and secondary roots made of acetate temples and fronts from the 1970s and 80s.

Clara Besnard x Bidules x Parasite – MORPH alpha – recycled and recyclable – the design was presented at SILMO 2024

About Clara Besnard: A graduate from La Cambre’s Master’s program in accessory design, French designer Clara Besnard is an accessories designer who makes eyewear and jewellery creations from upcycled materials. Her newest collection – Blooming of a Face – was selected as a finalist for the Hyères International Festival of Fashion. To find out more about her work and to shop her handmade jewellery, visit www.clarabesnard.com

| Eyestylist 13th November 2024

Emilia and Erik Lindmark, EOE Eyewear

Emilia and Erik Lindmark, co-founders of EOE Eyewear, have a pioneering approach to sustainable eyewear and how it is made. They are also the creative innovators behind the sustainable initiative, REGRIND, a project focusing on reducing waste in the industry by recycling old, used, or discarded eyewear and turning it into high-quality raw materials for new products. We caught up with them this month to find out about their latest work….and a new artistic collection from EOE featuring sustainably sourced reindeer antler

EOE Eyewear is one of the first brand’s to have taken a serious interest in sustainability. Would you agree? Absolutely. At EOE Eyewear, sustainability has been a core value since the very beginning. We’re proud to be one of the pioneers in the eyewear industry when it comes to integrating environmentally responsible practices into our production and distribution processes. Already in 2013, as Mazzucchelli released M49, our premiere collection with eco-acetate was released. While many brands are starting to embrace sustainability, I would say that EOE Eyewear has been at the forefront, focusing on materials like biodegradable acetate and recycled metals, as well as adopting circular business models (REGRIND) to reduce waste, both from production spill and from post consumer eyewear in a lot of different ways. We believe that sustainability is not just a trend, but a fundamental shift in the way fashion, along with all other industries, should be approached. We’re very committed to continuing this journey and inspiring others in the industry to follow suit. Above: Emilia and Erik Lindmark of EOE Eyewear – they are also the co-founders of REGRIND

What does the season’s EOE collection look like and can you highlight two of your favourite frames and explain the concept? This season, our collection is called the Antler Collection, and it draws inspiration from the soft, earthy hues of autumn and the majestic Swedish reindeer. Our designer Camilla Lindberg has created a range of frames that reflect the warmth and depth of autumn tones—think rich reds, burnt oranges, and earthy browns. A unique feature of this collection is the use of sustainably sourced reindeer antler, which is hand-carved by local artisan Ulf Avander, who has been honing his craft since the 1970s. The antlers are naturally shed each year, making them an eco-friendly material that can be thoughtfully repurposed. Besides this, we worked with incredible AI artist Sevda Albers for this campaign, creating images that fully encapsulates what we wanted to portray.

One of our personal favourites from this collection is the Saadek Horn—a beautifully rounded, soft oval frame that’s elegantly adorned with a piece of reindeer antler. The natural texture of the antler complements the smooth lines of the frame, creating a harmonious balance between nature and design.

Saadek Horn by EOE Eyewear – in the new Antler collection – natural reindeer antler is a feature of the collection

Another standout for me is the Lovikka Twist. The Lovikka is a classic EOE design that’s been reimagined over the seasons, and in this collection, it takes on a fresh, modern twist. It’s the perfect example of how timeless design can evolve, while still staying true to its roots.

You have always studied particular links between the landscapes of Northern Sweden and how those references can inform your design details and colour palette. How are you evolving this beautiful story? Yes, it’s true that we have always been fascinated by the unique landscapes of Northern Sweden and how they can inspire and enrich our designs. For me, it’s not just about reflecting the physical appearance of the landscape, but capturing its essence—the raw, untouched beauty and the subtle nuances found in nature that me, Erik, and our family have had the pleasure of experiencing up in Ammarnäs, and basically everywhere in (Swedish) Lapland.

In our most recent collections, we’ve continued to explore this connection through both colour palettes and form. We have drawn inspiration from everything, from the soft light of the mountains to the northern sky’s colours at different times of day, to the contrast between the cold tones of winter and the deep greenery of summer months. We’ve also been working with materials that reflect nature’s textures—such as frosty surfaces imagined through matt acetate, or the organic shapes of trees and precious stones – for example, in our Stone Collection!

To further evolve our brand, we’re always looking at ways to integrate sustainability and local material choices in our collections, so that our designs not only tell a story, but also have a deeper connection to the Northern landscape. We want each eyewear piece to feel like part of a larger narrative, where nature is not just an inspiration, but also a foundation for creating something timeless, and, most importantly, sustainable.

What has EOE got in the pipeline for 2025? EOE has an exciting year ahead for 2025, with a continued commitment to innovation, sustainability, and pushing the boundaries of eyewear design. Regarding shows, we have actually consciously taken a step back to instead focus on the continued expansion of our brand, and exciting new updates such as our new website and the upcoming collections.

Our upcoming SS25 collection is called “Midnight Sun”, and even though I won’t share more than that at the moment, I can promise that it will be exciting and a true reflection of the very special light that occurs in the north of Sweden.

We’re also focusing on enhancing our brand experience in Stockholm. The flagship store on Mäster Samuelsgatan 10 is more than just a retail space; it’s a reflection of our brand’s ethos—a place where design, craftsmanship, and the spirit of Northern Sweden come together. In 2025, (our 15th Anniversary), we’ll be introducing new in-store experiences, further include limited-edition collections and exclusive collaborations that will further elevate the EOE identity.

We’re also continuing to work on expanding our sustainability initiatives, from exploring new eco-friendly materials to enhancing our production processes. Our goal is to ensure that EOE not only delivers exceptional design but also a positive environmental impact, staying true to our roots and vision of creating eyewear that’s both beautiful and responsible. For example, exciting things are in the pipeline for REGRIND.

Atlas Bare by EOE Eyewear

As well as EOE, you are the co-founders of REGRIND. For anyone who hasn’t come across REGRIND as yet, can you explain the concept and outline your current activities? Of course! REGRIND is a project that we’re incredibly passionate about. It’s a sustainable initiative focused on reducing waste in the eyewear industry by recycling old, used, or discarded eyewear and turning it into high-quality raw materials for new products. The concept is simple but impactful: by collecting eyewear that would otherwise end up in landfills and giving it a second life, we can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of our industry. The REGRIND acetate has proven to lower CO2 emissions by up to 35% when compared to the use of virgin acetate, according to a LCA analysis.

At REGRIND, we work with optical retailers, manufacturers, and consumers to collect old eyewear, which we then process and transform into circular, usable acetate sheets. The circular acetate can then be used to create new eyewear, ensuring that nothing goes to waste.

It’s all about closing the loop and fostering a more circular economy within the eyewear sector, and we hope to be able to expand our factories and further develop the REGRIND technology in order to make it more accessible worldwide. For example, the REGRIND acetate was utilized by Balenciaga in 2024, and we look forward to aiding other brands in their journey to becoming more sustainable.

REGRIND is really about creating a more sustainable future for eyewear, and it’s a perfect complement to the work we’re doing with EOE Eyewear. Both initiatives are part of our broader mission to lead by example, and to drive a positive change in the eyewear industry.

As creative innovators in the eyewear sector, how do you feel the industry is progressing in general as regards sustainable practices? What do you think needs to happen next? As a company deeply committed to innovation and sustainability, we’ve seen the eyewear industry making significant strides in recent years. More and more brands are recognizing the importance of adopting sustainable practices, whether it’s through using eco-friendly materials, reducing waste, or improving the lifecycle of their products. Consumers are increasingly conscious of their environmental impact, and as a result, sustainability has moved from being a trend to a fundamental expectation. At EOE Eyewear, we’re proud to be a trailblazer of this movement, prioritizing the use of recycled and renewable materials, as well as designing products that are durable and timeless, (yet fashion forward), reducing the need for a constant replacement.

However, I do think the industry still has a long way to go. One area that could benefit from further innovation is the circularity of eyewear products. The infrastructure for this kind of closed-loop system is still underdeveloped, and there’s an opportunity for brands, manufacturers, and retailers to collaborate and create more effective recycling programs, and to adapt to use our REGRIND technology in order to ensure that discarded post consumer eyewear and production-spill becomes circular.

Additionally, there’s potential for more transparency around the environmental impact of virgin production processes, from sourcing materials to manufacturing across the entire sector. As we move forward, it’s essential that the industry continues to push for eco-friendly solutions while maintaining quality and functionality.

The next step, I believe, is not just innovation in materials, but also a shift towards a more systemic approach to sustainability—one that looks at the entire product lifecycle, from design and production to use and disposal or re-use. The more that all brands can educate consumers on how to care for, recycle, and repurpose their eyewear, the more we’ll collectively reduce our environmental footprint. It’s about creating a culture where sustainability is integrated into every step of the process, from ideation to delivery, and ultimately, to the customer’s experience.

www.eoe-eyewear.com  / www.regrind.se

| Eyestylist 12th November 2024

Article One: all-in-one quality – and style – for sport

Article One – the sports eyewear independent – adds sunglasses and optical styles with further innovation applied to performance details – their Active Collection has been designed to “embolden personal style” while enhancing movement, from the saddle to the city, trail to town

The US independent brand has added three new Active Suns + three Active Optical styles, informed by elegant retro shapes with finely-tuned details such as nose pads  and spring hinges designed for sports activity and busy lifestyles. The high quality acetate materials featured are selected for longer-lasting comfort and a beautiful finish. Above: Article One Active optical style Serene, one of three new designs in the  brand’s Active optical line

Cascade by Article One – the optical collection boasts sports features for added comfort

“In our never ending quest to create the most beautiful athletic eyewear in the market, we have taken our designs one step further. We have upgraded the hinges and nose pads to the best technology, and we were sure to double down on silhouettes and colors we know our customers desire. I’m excited for all Article One fans to see this collection.” Wes Stoody, Founder, Article One sports eyewear

Terra by Article One – designed for active sports such as cycling, this navigator shape is full of design details

About ARTICLE ONE : Independent sports eyewear brand, Article One is a rare find in the realm of sports eyewear. The brand specialises in creating innovative performance frames with a particular focus on fusing good design with a nod to retro styling and detailing – and exceptional technological details suited to runners, cyclists and all those who practice everyday sports and wish to wear eyewear with a quality-driven look and feel. For virtual try-on and more information about the brand, visit www.articleoneeyewear.com

Photography by Bryan Banducci for Article One – Autumn 2024 – @bryanbanducci