Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 1st March 2013

David Bowie Is

Victoria & Albert Museum London

1st March 2013 An exhibition awaited with much anticipation – David Bowie Is –  opens this month at the V&A in London, and celebrates Bowie’s fifty years of songwriting, performing and recording, to designing costumes, stage sets and album artwork. The chronicle of Bowie’s extraordinary career starts in 1963, when David – or ‘Davie’ Jones as he was then – began to be involved with London’s burgeoning music scene. In 1965, he changed his stage name to David Bowie. He has never been fearful of breaking with tradition and being radical – whether in his choice of music or amazing costumes. The exhibition includes the original Ziggy Stardust jumpsuit and boots created by Freddie Burretti, and worn on national TV, when Bowie’s first single from the album The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust was released. Bowie was fascinated with the designs of Kansaie Yamamoto, and approached him to design costumers for his Aladdin Sane tour. The striped bodysuit (above) was among the most flamboyant, sculptural and eye-catching that Bowie wore and was inspired by the Japanese style of samurai and kabuki actors.

Early days - David Bowie in1963 with the band Kon-rads
Early days – David Bowie in 1963 with the band Kon-rads

The luxury Italian fashion brand Gucci, and Sennheiser Group, the acclaimed German manufacturer of microphone and wireless transmission systems have generously sponsored this pioneering exhibition. David Bowie Is an altogether striking celebration of a truly original performer, whose immensely creative imagination and ubiquitous presence in music, fashion and the stage continues to influence contemporary visual and virtual culture. Opens 23rd March through 11 August 2013. www.vam.ac.uk JG

Top photo:  Striped bodysuit for Aladdin Sane tour. Designed by Kansai Yamamoto Photograph by Masayoshi Sukita 1963 Copyright Sukita/The David Bowie Archive 2012

Middle photo:  Promotional shoot for The Kon-rads Photograph by Roy Ainsworth 1963 Courtesy of the David Bowie archive 2012. Copyright V&A Images

| Eyestylist 1st March 2013

Coterie

Beijing, China

1st March 2013 David Leung from Coterie in Beijing shares with Eyestylist the history and direction of his glamorous boutique.

Please give a background of the boutique. “Three of us, all fashion addicts, came together in late 2011 and started the Coterie project. For us, it is exciting to be the first to introduce many top eyewear designers and their collections to China. We strongly believe when consumers are offered more choices, they will start to understand that good eyewear is more than just a luxury name tagged onto the temple of an average product. We created the interior space design ourselves. We believe the best background to frame eyewear is white. It is the only colour that allows the subtle colour differences – both the lens and the frame – to be fully revealed. And since we are so into originality and the beauty of vintage, it came to us naturally that the space would have no option but to be European-style inspired – and all-white.

“One of our boutiques sits in a very interesting mall in Beijing called Parkviewgreen. The entire mall is covered with glass walls from top to bottom – like a greenhouse. Abundant sunlight penetrates the mall, and makes you feel like you are walking outdoors. Since the mall owner is also the biggest art collector in Hong Kong, he displays lots of his interesting and stunning collections – including Salvador Dali – in the mall. When people walk in, it is not only about shopping, but also an experience that resembles going to an exhibition.”

You stock European/North American labels – are your customers inspired by fashion from these countries? “To us, there are two major reasons why we are more inclined to labels from Europe and North America. First of all, these countries are also where most of the world’s fashion ideas come from. We can see breakthrough new attempts every season, and that’s inspiring! Amazingly, while innovation is there, we also see a lot of brands that have a long history successfully keeping their craftsmanship and spirit in their collections. It is heritage and it is not replaceable.”

.."not only about shopping..also an experience that resembels going to an exhibition." David Leung Coterie
..”not only about shopping..also an experience that resembles going to an exhibition.” David Leung – Coterie

Your customer profile? “Most of our consumers come from the fashion world. They are celebrities, actresses/actors, fashion editors, models and trend lovers.”

For Spring/Sumer 2013 – what are customers looking  in eyewear? “We believe black/gold, with acetate plus metal parts will be still on the spot. Slowly, we see metal as a material (or partially metal) coming back on stage as a trend. Green/dark green will become a colour to go for this season. Mirrored lenses and frames and lenses in the same colour are options to many who are bored with normal gradient grey/brown lenses. Wellington styles, oversize, cat-eye, flat-top and vintage revamps will be some of the most favourable shapes in 2013.”

Do you have events in the boutique? “We love modern artwork, and therefore we regularly invite artists to have their exhibition in our stores. We had Chenman – the photographer – create a series of images for us when we launched the project. And it was followed by ceramic artist Nutz Luk, and Graffiti artist Hurricane from Oops in May and November last year. In 2013, we will have Casper from Disiniok, creating special fashion illustrations and an exhibit in Coterie in March. Besides artist collaborations, we also create special edition products with brands. Last year, we did projects with EK Paris, Neighborhood Eyewear, Graz Eyewear and Dita Legend. We are now working on a few special limited edition projects, hoping that will help draw more and more attention from consumers in China.

“In April we will have Mik Somers from theo coming to China and we will have interviews with the media. We are also working on a pop-up store project with a brand, and if everything goes smoothly, it should land in Beijing this summer.” www.coterie.cn JG

 

 

Eyestylist salutes men’s eyewear

this month – Cult Classics with vitality and style! Click on Reviews to find some striking designs. Our Designer of the Month is a dynamic Parisian creator, and in Boutiques, we travel to Lyon. We have also visited Linda Farrow HQ in London, to see some seriously gorgeous fashion frames.
Visit City Guides for exhibitions and other cultural delights we’ll be featuring through the month.
Click and stay with Eyestylist for the latest in eyewear excitement and fashion news.

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| Eyestylist 26th February 2013

Men’s Eyewear – The Designer Approach

Tom Stevens Eyewear The Netherlands

26th February 2013 Tom Stevens reflects on “Men’s Eyewear – The Designer Approach”

Do you have a ‘role model’ when you design?  “Sometimes I use my dad’s face to work on a design. Of course, you always think about measurements, and fitting that is typical for male faces. I usually start drawing from an image/shape in my mind. Sometimes I fine tune a design on my father’s face.”

What is your perspective on colour, shape and material? “Taste is something different for everybody. I think a frame should complement/complete the face. I do prefer somewhat rounder shapes for men, instead of the very sharp-edged, angular frames. Regarding colours, I think a male frame should make a statement. If the design is good, many colours could fit. i prefer using only one colour on a design. If you use more, for example, two-tone, it is very important that the colours complement each other very well, otherwise it could totally destroy a good design. I love titanium designs for men in basic colours, but also fashion colours, like our neon orange model Lee.” (Below – inspired by Dutch singer  Lee Towers, from the 1980’s, who is also well known for his frames).

 

Lee in vivid orange by Tom Stevens
Lee in vivid orange by Tom Stevens

Nowadays, are men more experimental with eyewear? “Yes, I can see that more and more men like to wear a statement frame. Now it is more common to wear fashionable designs instead of very basic frames. Men are not afraid to wear a frame that stands out somewhat, and men like to distinguish themselves. I like this tendency – it’s fun!” www.stevenseyewear.com JG

 

 

| Eyestylist 25th February 2013

Standout shades at Thomas Tait

London Fashion Week

25th February 2013 Sunglasses have become a very popular sight on the international fashion stages, and the more avantgarde and eye-catching the better. In London, one show that caught our imagination and included some exciting shades to accessorise the collections, was Canadian designer Thomas Tait’s autumn/winter presentation, which took place at the very cool Carlton House Terrace Garages in St James’s (www.stjameslondon.co.uk).

Thomas Tait, A/W13 at London Fashion Week
Thomas Tait, A/W13 at London Fashion Week

Featuring slick masculine tailored coats and daring blocks of colour, the shades were part of the story, and came in larger than life, distinctive asymmetrical shapes. Tait collaborates with Cutler & Gross for his sunglass projects and it’s not the first time he has woven a special sunglass collection into his overall catwalk look – some of you will remember the ‘Sadzies’ launched on the catwalk in September 2011.  CN www.cutlerandgross.com www.thomastait.com Images by kind permission of Sisteris.