ic! berlin’s S42 Wedding is one of the new feather-light optical frames in the German company’s Hybrid Collection – a panto “round” shape with real elegance. Precision-cut acetate is combined here with ic! berlin’s spring stainless steel. Pictured in rosé-gold-caramel, a beautiful soft combination that is on trend for a perfect transition from summer to autumn. If you are updating specs this month, this natural colour palette is the way to go. http://www.ic-berlin.de CN
Colour creativity is a theme at RVS by V. for optical frames and sunglasses. Model Noah is a prime example in purple haze, a dreamy hue with a striated ripple effect. The shape is charismatic – a solid rectangular vintage look with authentic handmade finishing and tiny rivets. Try it! www.rvsbyv.comCN
29th July 2015 Coppe Gualtiero, co-founder with Sid Fiz at Coppe+Sid, introduces the newest member of the team.
“Marilu is a new entry at Eye Design Club Italia. She just joined the company a month ago, and she has not yet met Uncle Coppe and Uncle Sid, as they are managing ED Club Europe in London, and ED Club Asia Pacific in Singapore at the moment. Marilu is an Australian Sheppard, and she is seven months old. Her mother Teddy is four years old, and gave birth to nine puppies! All of them have found homes. Marilu is very quite and shy, and definitely a good ‘office dog’ girl, and just needs a little ‘control.’
“Marilu likes to be with somebody all the time, and she welcomes every person coming to the office – not only the customers! She is the same at the house, only she is not really a watchdog, as you very seldom hear her ‘voice’ or bark.
“She is not travelling with me yet, but she has started enjoying little trips by car with local Coppe+Sid sales women. When Marilu is at the office she is curious about any new products. She waits for break times, especially during this hot summer, to have fun with people in the office, like Nicolo, our Graphic Designer. My friend rescued Teddy, Marilu’s mother, and I’m so pleased that I have this good girl Marilu!” www.eyedesignclub.comJG
16th July 2015 Created in 2008 by husband and wife team Jean-Paul and Catherine Sanchez, reVOLVERhas become a reference point for cutting-edge fashion and style on the Mediterranean island of Ibiza with a brand mix that includes McQ Alexander McQueen, 8PM and Silent Damir Doma. Now the owners have created their own separate reVOLVER Sunglasses boutique, dedicated to a selection of high-fashion, cult and artisan sunglass labels.
20 meters from reVOLVER fashion store, the shop is more like a gallery than a traditional sunglasses shop; original stonework walls contrast with custom-made raw metal fittings, polished concrete flooring and glass displays.
“There’s nothing else quite like it in Ibiza,” explain the owners. “People are tired of the same old brands you can buy in most airports; they want a more personal service where they can spend time finding the perfect pair of shades,” says Jean-Paul.
reVOLVER Sunglasses prides itself in offering a carefully curated edit of brands and styles. “We’re passionate about what we do. We spend a lot of time researching and selecting the very best from what are sometimes quite large collections. We mix well-known luxury brands like Linda Farrow and Dita with some amazing artisan brands – Hapter from Italy, Vava from Berlin, and Valley from Australia. At the end of the day, it comes down to taste, and over the years I think people here have come to trust us to do the hard work for them!” reVOLVER Sunglasses, Calle Bisbe Cardona 6, Ibiza 07800, Spain www.revolveribiza.com. Photographyby Sofia Gomez Fonzo (www.sofiagomezfonzo.wordpress.com/)CN
1st July 2015 Established fashion capitals – Paris, New York, Milan and London – make headlines each season as models strut the catwalk showing the latest creations by leading designers. These destinations and emerging cities that include among others, Berlin, Istanbul, Seoul, Stockholm, Russia, Mexico, and Sao Paulo – are the theme of an intriguing exhibition, Global Fashion Capitals, at The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York City.
The show examines the rise of emerging cities to global prominence, and supports the theory that fashion communicates identity and spreads cultural influence throughout the world. Fashion weeks continue to multiply as cities also realise the economic value of the fashion industry. More than seventy garments and accessories from designers including Coco Chanel, Chrsitian Dior, Prada, Yohji Yamamoto, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, Dries Van Noten, Alexandre Herchcovitch from Brazil, and Christian Louboutin’s amazing stilettos, demonstrates the scope and power of the fashion industry.
Global Fashion Capitals is a stylish tribute to the international reach of today’s fashion creators. Certainly an exhibition to visit if in New York City. Continues through 14th November 2015. www.fitnyc.edu Top image: Homo Consommatus Ensembles Spring 2015 St. Petersburg Gift of Homo Consommatus JG
Fun, glamour and lively colours all combine in Bocca Tatoo 1 from Face à Face Paris. A curvy, sensuous cat-eye shape in quality acetate, the Bocca range started as a one-off at Face à Face, and has become among the most successful of their designs. The striking colour mix of orange, navy and cream, with the seductive sides, add to its many charms. www.faceaface-paris.comJG
Brower represents the new wave in old-fashioned vintage. Made in Japan, Salt frames are classic and finely crafted; by majoring on fine quality and well executed details, the brand has carved a niche for itself as one of the specialist independent eyewear leaders in the USA. Salt is increasingly available in Europe. Stockists include The House of Eyewear (Paris), Auerbach & Steele (London) and Augenglanz (Berlin). www.saltoptics.comCN
Norwegian brand Karmoie by Kirsten and Lars Iversen launched their collection with One Small – a classic sunglass shape and colour combo. The temple ends offer a nice twist in a wood look acetate. All Karmoie frames are made in Italy in M49 sustainable acetate from Mazzucchelli, and are fitted with Carl Zeiss sunlenses. With every pair of frames purchased, Karmoie gives a pair of Eyejusters to a person in need. For more on this independent label, visit www.karmoie.comCN
London Designer Alexia Parmigiani creates luxurious, original scarves that are sold internationally. She discusses with Eyestylist her concepts and intuitions.
How did you decide to create luxury scarves? “I began my journey with scarves in 2005 after a close friend – Indian Summer based in London – suggested I concentrate only on scarves as my designs were selling so well in her shop. At that point, no one had just a scarf collection. It was a very fresh idea and I loved the ‘one size only.’ My brand is about texture and unique pieces. Basically the scarf is a piece of jewellery. I see scarves as part of the personality.”
Are there other products that you would like to design? “I have designed other acccessories and clothing in the past, and each summer collection supports the scarf range with a mini resort wear line. I have just opened a page on my website called “Wanderlust” that will display my one-off designs. I call them ‘One & Only.’ This is a very exciting part of the business for me.”
Do you have particular inspirations for your creations? “Yes, I try to pick a theme, like Venice for my AW15 collection, which I visited with my husband, and fell in love with the absolutely magical and fascinating city that is Venice – it is breathtaking. I was completely inspired by the colours of the buildings, washes of dark and light blended together, a naturally distressed effect…I researched by taking millions of pictures and just taking in the Venetian life. My shapes are extremely important to my designing, and I usually pick a design that I love from my past collections and redevelop. I see where I can push the design further, and during that stage a completely new design can appear too. Mixing all of this with daily life is how I like to design. For years I have thought about a collection for men, and after my husband was stealing my samples that were not complete I thought: ‘this is a sign’ – I’m ready! So I have introduced a menswear collection for AW 15 – a capsule collection of soft cashmere and wool blends, snake tie dye, and dip dyed in different weaves, with shapes that include square and long scarves. Watch out for the menswear capsule collection launching 1st July – exclusively on line.
“I have very exciting news and Eyestylist is the first to hear it. I have decided to concentrate on sales through my website only. Not designing collections, but ‘One & Onlys’ – you can find the beginnings on my Wanderlust page. Fashion has changed, and always will, but now stores are driven by high profile brands more and more. I do believe we all would like a wider choice of well-sourced, new and wonderful designs of any level. I am excited about the freedom that I will have in my designs, and really look forward to this new chapter in my life. Through my website I can release these pieces exclusively for the consumer. This gives me the freedom to create a ‘one of a kind’ place for all shoppers, something new and fresh is what I think people are looking for. This will be an ever changing shop window throughout the year. The Dancers at Dusk AW15 collection will go live by mid-July, and will be sold only though my website store. I hope you will follow me on my new and exciting journey! www.alexiafashion.co.ukJG
26th June 2015 French optician Sabine Bégault-Vagner from Orléans turned to eyewear design in 2014, and hasn’t looked back. Her acetate frames and sunnies come in high volume hues, with distinctive graphic shapes – perfect for summer holidays. Colour pairings frequently include tortoise on neon purple, classic shiny crystal or shiny statement red. Flashy split combination colours on the fronts (see models be swag, be pretty and be geek) are a particularly fun option. Above: model be whaouh ! by sabine be. : a round frame shape, a square lens.
With a strong preference for Mazzucchelli acetate, Sabine has her own frame “signatures” including a round and square end pieces on each model, in matching or contrasting hues; all frames are made in France. To compliment the collection, be accessories include beautifully made summer-toned chains, cases and purses, featuring the same “signature” details to mix and match with eyewear.
Available at leading optical stores including Studio Optix, USA, Artsee Miami, Ottica Astrologo, Rome, and at sabine be, 21 Rue de la Republique, 45000 Orleans, France www.sabinebe.frCN
Major is a Rolf classic, a premium design from the Evolved Collection, handcrafted from the finest natural materials, bog oak and walnut. The different layers of wood are perfectly showcased in the design. High quality processing and finishing are all part of the mix as is always the case with the Austrian label. Find this frame and the full collection at the new Rolf boutique in Vienna. www.rolf-spectacles.comCN
Made in a small workshop in Ohio, Harvey is a classy little number, beautifully crafted with intriguing colour effect. Anni Shades dedicates lots of effort to finely-tuning their techniques for producing handmade frames, and the results are impressive. Currently available at Artsee Eyewear, Miami. www.annishades.comCN
From Canada, Homa by Spectacle Eyeworks is typical of the natural eyewear styles from the Canadian brand, who have been producing handmade wood and horn products since 2008. Lenses are secured with screws to ensure easy alignment and acetate temple tips are added for easy adjustments. If you so desire, the Homa can be created with handfinished temple engravings adding a touch of the exotic. www.spec-eyeworks.comCN
1st June 2015“Shoes are one of the most telling aspects of dress. Beautiful, sculptural objects, they are also powerful indicators of gender, status, identity, taste and even sexual preference. Our choice in shoes can help project an image of who we want to be,” says Helen Persson, Exhibition Curator for Shoes: Pleasure and Pain.
Included in this splendid show are shoes from the unrivalled collection at the V& A, plus international collections, and wardrobes of private individuals. Shoes worn by or associated with high profile figures including Queen Victoria, Marilyn Monroe, Sarah Jessica Parker, David Beckham and the Hon Daphne Guinness, among others, are featured. The famous ballet slippers designed for Moira Shearer in the 1948 film The Red Shoes are on display. Footwear for men and women by seventy designers including Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Vivienne Westwood and Jimmy Choo will also feature in the more than two-hundred pairs of shoes included in the exhibition.
Shoes from ancient Egypt, men’s shoes from India, shoe fashions from the European royal courts, and today’s trend-setting designers provide amazing examples of footwear through the centuries. Shoes: Pleasure and Pain is the latest in a continuing series of fascinating fashion presentations at the Victoria & Albert Museum. The exhibition opens on 13 June and continues until 31st January 2016. www.vam.ac.uk/shoesJG
Photos: Top image: Freed of London red ballet shoes made for Moira Shearer in The Red Shoes (1948) silk satin, braid and leather, England 1948. Photograph reproduced with the kind permission of Northampton Museums and Art Gallery; Roger Vivier for Christian Dior image Copyrighted Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Chopines: image copyrighted Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Parakeet Shoes: Photography by Dan Lowe
Bano should be at the top of your list if you love Genuine Horn eyewear. A classic retro look, the frame is elegant for men or women. Gotti uses the highest quality buffalo horn and hand polishing techniques that provide a luxurious lustre on the natural material. An eyewear experience to remember. www.gotti.chCN
Influenced by East Asian calligraphy and the Lunar calendar, Rigards RG0061 is a collaborative design with Shanghai-based designer Ziggy Chen. Hand-carved bevels, typical of this artisan horn label, give a graceful three-dimensional handmade finish, referencing the fluid brushtrokes of Oriental penmanship. Parts of the frame are also hand-polished for a silky smooth effect similar to the surface of a writer’s inkstones. As always, Rigards focuses on unique artisan style and quality in eyewear produced out of solid genuine horn pieces. Choose from bespoke European or Asian fit for maximum comfort. Rigards optical and sunglass designs are now available in London at Specstacular Opticians, www.specstacular.londonwww.rigards.comCN
“I started working in the optical/ophthalmic field in 1993, and then also started to work in fashion. Passionate about accessories since childhood, the spark snapped during a trip to Caracas, after my studies, when I was hit by a pair of sunglasses worn by a young tourist. A glance is able to lead us into new worlds and fantasies just watching what is around us, and through the glance we experience and learn. Glances are the protagonists of memories, sensations, emotions, and make eyewear the King of accessories.
“As a self-taught designer, I decided to form my own eyewear label “Pollipo’ Occhiali” in 2000, inspired by my passion for acetate glasses. Acetate is just my favourite material for eyewear. My love for accessories – and pearls in particular – led me to create my collection of jewels, and the unique, creative line of jewel clutches…which are not only for glasses. The collections are fully handmade in Italy, and I’m always focusing on the combination between colours of the acetates, with the colours of the gemstones and leathers. The leathers are from Tuscany, and I choose the gemstones during my world travels, discovering special gems such as the Rhodochrosite from Argentina, a beautiful pink to red-rose stone. I’m also passionate about Red Coral which I select from Torre del Greco in Italy.
“Another stone I use is the enchanting Pietra Paesina from Tuscany, a stone that hides inside designs that look like the work of a painter, but really are absolutely natural and stimulating. So sometimes there is a surprising landscape. Turquoise from Arizona I use, but always and above all I am fascinated by selecting and researching pearls!
“I get intuition to create eyewear and jewels by the sea, basically it is my homeland of inspiration. I live in this atmosphere, and the sea is around me everyday, as my home is located in the seaside of beautiful Roma. ” www.pollipocchiali.itJG
1st June 2015 Like many renowned cities in France, Dijon has a long and noble history. The home of the Dukes of Burgundy from the 11th century until the late 15th century, Dijon was the European centre of art, science and learning. The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon is part of the Ducal palace, which includes kitchens that date back to the 15th century. This is also the region for acclaimed Burgundy wine; aromatic Dijon mustard that was created in 1856; and an amazingly beautiful countryside. In this heady atmosphere, is an innovative optician who is an oasis for independent eyewear designers – Bruno Curtil Opticien.
Curtil was an early champion of l.a. Eyeworks and Alain Mikli. “For thirty years, I’ve been buying l.a. Eyeworks and Mikli – I’m very loyal to my suppliers. I have confidence in their creativity,” he says. Other brands to be found at Curtil include ROLF, ic!berlin, theo, Hoet, Oliver Goldsmith, Anne & Valentine, and Thierry Lasry among others. Prior to being involved in optics, Curtil was in the theatre, and his sense of performance and staging he brings to his optical practice, with events that involve his clients and the community. “We have fashion shows in the shop featuring sunglasses and swimwear; we serve delicious fresh snacks, along with fruit juices made in the Bourgogne, and we have live music. These events are by invitation only and the evenings are great,” says Curtil.
The shop decor is fresh, modern and inviting, with high ceilings, Italian wood and the versatile Dupont material Corian in white is used on the walls, providing aesthetics that are clean and functional. Throughout the year, Curtil hosts trunk shows, and customers are invited to see the entire collections of various eyewear designers. Thirty years in optics has only re-invigorated Curtil’s enthusiasm and passion for eyewear. He also understands that superior frames and service, plus a very personal approach to clients is a recipe for success. www.brunocurtil.frJG
29th May 2015 Independent designers bring original ideas and concepts to sunglasses – fine materials; shapes that range from classic to cult; and a colour palate that frequently amazes. In addition to his fashion collections, Tim Van Steenbergen also creates memorable eyewear designs for theo in Belgium. In the photo above, Tim wears one of his favourites for summer 2015 – Station Charlie in luxurious thick acetate with elegant bevelling details. www.theo.be
Titanium is a material that always inspires German designer Adrian Marwitz. Pure, uncluttered shapes are his passion, and Stranger No. 20 is crafted with excellence and fine, precise details. The shimmering bronze finish on the frame is certain to look fabulous with a suntan! www.adrianmarwitz.comPhoto by Max Gudczinski exclusively for Eyestylist.com
Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s sunglass collection is always a delightful selection of beautifully designed and superbly accomplished frames. Right on trend is Elizabeth, in fashion’s favourite pink. The silky luminous acetate silhouette flows with graceful elegant contours. www.lgrworld.com
Frames with architectural inspiration bring new dimension to designs by Mondelliani in Rome. The Edge sunglasses are literally, “Edgy” and sleek, with an intrinsic shape in polished black acetate. Note the precisely handcrafted details of the frame front, bridge and temples. www.mondelliani.it
Children’s eyes need sun protection too, and youngsters will really enjoy wearing Oliver Goldsmith’s Glyn. This frame was created for adults in 1971 – still going strong today – and artfully interpreted for little faces. Kids will feel so grown up with the vintage styling in Black and Candy Floss acetate, with a keyhole bridge. Check out www.olivergoldsmith.com for more details. JG
5th May 2015 A new event showcasing exceptional craftsmanship takes place this week around the capital. Well-known luxury brands and lesser known labels will be featured in a journey-of-discovery programme involving specialist workshops, small-scale makers and artisans, famous shops, galleries and luxury brands. Above: Daniel Harris for London Cloth – www.londoncloth.com – who will be scarf-weaving at Daks, Old Bond Street / 7th May).
The line up includes varied events and demonstrations at London’s prestigious department stores including Fortnum & Mason, Selfridges and open studios – an exciting event at Cockpit Arts features independent designers and makers in varied disciplines including wood work, textiles, millinery and jewellery (Cockpit Arts, Cockpit Yard, Northington St, London WC1N 2NP / 9-10th May).
Vacheron Constantin, the founding partner of London Craft Week will show how their luxury watches are made and engraved, with experts demonstrating their craft at the flagship store on Old Bond Street.
The innovative Kemp by Grey Ant is another gem by Grant Krajecki and codesigner Natalie Levy. Creators of the original concept of cut-off lenses, this time the duo have worked on a totally new concept that exposes the riveted hinge on the exterior of the frame as a decorative feature. It’s a simple, luxurious statement that elevates a classic look into something ingenious and very desirable. Made in Japan, and featuring Zeiss sun lenses, these elegant sunnies are now available at www.greyant.com.CN
1st May 2015 Cologne is the cultural centre of The Rhineland, with numerous and fascinating museums and art galleries. It is also home to an amazing selection of optical shops. Augenweide Optik is an elegant oasis where customers can discover international brands that fosters optical style. “Customers in Cologne love design,” says optician Michael Franzen, “but it must not be loud design; they prefer soft design with no logos. Clients are very reserved and refined, but want the best quality.”
Franzen opened the shop with his business partner Wilfred Wirtz twenty-one years ago, and they have experienced various eyewear evolutions during this time. “We have grown with our customers since we opened, and our clientele is professional men and women who are architects, lawyers, and teachers.” The shop features la crème de la crème of independent labels, including Orgreen, LGR, Lindberg, Götti, Rolf, Face à Face and WOOW, theo, l.a.Eyeworks, and the speciality German brand Wolfgang Katzer. “There are approximately over 300 optical shops in Cologne – I believe it is the most in Europe,” says Franzen, “and the reason for this is probably because there is an excellent School of Optometry here. When students graduate, they want to stay in Cologne, and open their own shop, so the majority of shops are independent.”
Augenweide is one hundred and fifty square meters, so the feeling is delightfully open, airy and welcoming. Beige and cocoa tones, with black floors, and beautiful, warm wood panelling and cabinets further enhance the ambience. Large windows offer the possibility of spacious displays, and during Eyestylist’s visit, the decoration included lavish flower paintings by a local designer, in bright spring colours, along with cheerful flowerpots, and beautiful frames. Discover more at www.augenweide.deJG
David Rose is a born and bred Californian, equally at home on a surfboard or ‘surfin’ European capitals. Indeed, it is his love of travel and sport that sparked the initiative to create SALT Eyewear. “I found my fondness for eyewear when I was twelve years old because of the ski frames that I wore. That’s how I started to get into eyewear.
“Before I started the company in 2006, I worked in an optical shop in Aspen, and I discovered I was really passionate about eyewear – the shapes, colours, sizes, and materials. Eyewear has a foot in the medical and fashion worlds.” A peripatetic traveller, Rose explored the world and indulged in lots of surfing. “Seeing the world and nature is the best place for creative ideas,” says Rose. The name SALT is an acronym for Sea, Air, Land and Time. The themes and colours are all based on the outdoors and the marvels of nature.
“When you travel you experience nature; you see great greens in the mountains and sea. There is so much inspiration in what Mother Nature gives out. At SALT, we are giving an authentic message, and we use real people in our photos. It gives a genuine feel that people can relate to what they are seeing.”
SALT frames are handcrafted in Japan with Mazzucchelli and Japanese acetate. Rose commented: “I’m in Japan several times a year to oversee everything. You don’t want to over promise and under deliver. I follow fashion from afar, but it is not the SALT driving force. I’m more about designing something that is not here today and gone tomorrow.” www.saltoptics.comJG
beautiful glasses and sunglass designs that are the ultimate accessory, as you’ll discover in REVIEWS. China is the destination in BOUTIQUES, and the Designer of the Month is award-winning Vera Wang, who always has a sizzling pulse on fashion. In CITY GUIDES, a Paris exhibition pays homage to a 19th Century designer whose influence resonates today. Eyestylist…for inspirational eyewear and accessories.
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29th April 2015 Two hundred and forty optical boutiques from Cologne and surrounding areas plus Bonn, Frankfurt, and shops in Austria and Switzerland, experienced the Cologne show. In an airy and friendly atmosphere, opticians were able to leisurely browse to look at the speciality collections. Independent designers on hand to present their collections included Etienne Frederiks from Suzy Glam in the Netherlands, Adrian Marwitz from Germany (Etienne and Adrian in top photo) plus Jèrèmy Tarian and Lucas de Staël from France.
“We are very happy about the show,” said organisers Nathanaël Wenger and Dirk Giessmann, “this is our first show in Cologne, and we think people were waiting for something here. We’ve had positive feedback. It’s an opportunity for opticians to see high end products in this area. The atmosphere is very relaxed and people were really interested. It’s a very good start.” www.diebrillenmesse.dewww.suzyglam.comwww.adrianmarwitz.comJG
Photos: Max Gudczinski exclusively for Eyestylist.com All Rights Reserved
19th April 2015 The work of Canadian War Artist, Fashion Illustrator and Modern Painter Irwin ‘Bud’ Crosthwait (1914 – 1981) with go on sale at a special exhibition in London by GRAY M.C.A., later in the year. The exhibition will include more than 60 original works from private collections: War Art, Fashion Illustration & Modern Art with prices ranging from £350 to £10,000.
Coinciding with London Fashion Week (SS16), the exhibition will highlight Crosthwait’s work as one of Paris’s acclaimed Fashion Illustrators, commissioned by publications including Harpers Bazaar, Vogue, Elle, Jardin Des Modes, Herald Tribune, New York Times & Femina and designers Givenchy, Dior, Marc Vaughan, Pucci, Courrèges & Yves St Laurent. Above: Irwin Crosthwait 1977 St Emica Watercolour (£1,500).
Gallery 8, 8 Duke Street, St James’s, London SW1. From 17th to 22nd September 2015. www.graymca.co.ukCN
Lucia Pasin launched her stunning new collection in Milan – frames that are colourful and inspiring. Luxurious flowers blossom on cellulose acetate – an ecological raw material – with creative textures, powerful shapes, and fresh characteristics. Rose Flowers+Geometry Veruschka highlights care for details, and Pasin’s intuitive understanding for designs that are elegant, feminine and strong. “My frames are indeed for a woman who knows the pleasure of ornament,” says the Italian designer. More details at www.lupastudio.itJG
The acclaimed Mexican painter Frida Kahlo is a source of inspiration for Spectacle Eyeworks in Canada. Frida (above) comes with five different colours of Brow pieces, originally inspired by Kahlo’s quote: “Nothing is absolute, everything changes, everything moves, everything revolutionizes…” Frida represents agility and change with the varied colour “brow pieces.” www.spec-eyeworks.comJG