Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 18th February 2021

Menswear: sustainable progress in eyewear

Substance by Rolf Spectacles, Austria

A wave of new eyewear collections featuring sustainable materials are arriving for 2021 in line with a huge movement for change and effort towards sustainability in fashion and design. Among the highlights in independent eyewear, the Austrian label Rolf Spectacles has released a plant-based collection of sunglasses designed with their artisan principles, expertise and handmade focus – and 3D printing.

Their material is derived from plants grown in tropical climates without any kind of genetic engineering.  “This remarkable plant grows six metres in just four months, and it comes back every year,” explains company founder and visionary Roland Wolf. “This makes the new material more sustainable and kinder to the environment than ever–and the perfect foundation upon which to build a new collection of glasses to meet the current demand for more climate-considerate products.”

Already an award-winning concept with an IDA Design Award 2021 and a Focus Open Award (end of last year), this new line features over 23 timeless, unisex shapes which are comfortable and light to wear, as well as colourful (there are six basic colours) and technically robust. Attentive to every detail, the 3D printed frames feature ROLF’s screwless Flexlock hinge, an ideal high-tech component which ensures a flexible fit on the face. Above: a very practical eco-friendly contemporary men’s sunglass style: ROLF model Fako in Black Grey – offering 100% UV protection – available online at 330 euros.

ROLF substance mount sun collection – available online

To make Substance more widely available during the pandemic, ROLF has launched a few limited edition “Substance Mount” styles for exclusive purchase online. Find the modified ‘D frame’ shape model Fako at https://online.rolf-spectacles.com/collections/substance-mount/products/fako-blackgrey)

About Rolf SpectaclesGlasses manufacturer ROLF was founded in 2009 in the heart of Austria’s Tyrolean Alps. The family company first became known for its unique wooden glasses; it is now offering a wide of range of innovative materials including designs in titanium, stone, buffalo horn and now plant-based materials – all without using any screws, thereby eliminating the need for any maintenance. Founder and visionary Roland Wolf has already surprised the international eyewear market with several innovations related to his core product, starting with materials and moving on to production technology and design. The eyewear designer’s approach is to combine his love of nature with timeless styles and innovative technology, the success of which is evidenced by numerous awards, including the Silmo d’Or, the German Design Award, the Green Design Award, the Red Dot Award, and the Muse Design Award. Despite the international acclaim and awards, the creative company continues to manufacture in the homeland of the brand, by hand, and using natural resources, remaining faithful to the guiding principle of the business: creating products that respect yesterday, work for today, and prepare for tomorrow. Find out more at www.rolf-spectacles.com

  | Eyestylist 16th February 2021

Kechi ‘The Eccentric Dandy’

Stylist, blogger and colourful fashion week street style setter, Kechi “The Eccentric Dandy” has a unique point of view on all things fashion. His eclectic style and bold dressing is exciting and rule-breaking and infectious to all. Having met at Paris Fashion Week in 2019, Victoria Brunton reconnected with him online in this interview for our menswear series on accessories and style.

Has your way of dressing always been received positively outside of our industry and have you always had such a strong confidence in your style, as you portray? I don’t think anyone is confident immediately; for me personally, it was a process of growing my confidence. I grew up in a small mid-western college town where much of dressing was about being ‘cool’, which ultimately served a culture of conformity. It wasn’t until the last couple of years leading to my jump to New York that I really began to play with my style. Cultivating my personal aesthetic took work— and lots of it – and while it was fun to do, dressing differently wasn’t always easy; one often encounters resistance when fighting against the grain, and that’s okay. More importantly the benefits to dressing, and in doing so being true to yourself and having others respond well to that, far overrides any criticism. To put it simply; if someone has something negative to say about me, or about how I dress that’s a reflection on them – not me.  Above: photo by @scander9

Paris Fashion Week (2019)

What do you look for when selecting a frame? Perhaps you could tell us about your favorite pair of glasses in your collection… I adore eyewear because it is such an easy way to transform your look! As far as choosing frames; I look for how they suit my face and their overall suitability. I really enjoy different kinds of lens tints because there is so much choice; two-tone, a rose tint, a full black out lens or a nice hunter yellow — the options are endless! Different styles of frame definitely speak to different eras and moods; right now, my favorite frame is a pair of brown-tinted Tom Ford aviators – they go with everything. I do love my extremes in eyewear, but nothing beats a good classic pair of shades you can grab on your way out of the door.

When planning an outfit, what role do accessories play for you? Accessories aren’t any more or any less important than any other piece of clothing I wear; you can have great accessories and still be poorly dressed, in my opinion. So, having that balance between all of your pieces is essential. Sometimes your clothes are doing the talking while your accessories take the back seat – and vice versa, and if you really wanna party, everything; your clothes, accessories and hair are all talking at once – AKA me at every fashion week.

“For the love of prints” – photo by @rvrdwn

Is there a growing demand for more choice in the male accessories market? Do you often find yourself having to seek out an accessory categorized as “woman’s”, simply because it is not provided for in “men’s”? Looking at guys on the street there is certainly a growing demand for men’s and gender non-specific accessories. The fact that men are finding new ways to wear old accessories speaks to this; a recent example being men wearing fanny packs slung around the torso as a pseudo-purse VS the traditional way of wearing it around the waist. This has expanded to the more daring men wearing actual handbags and purses that are generally geared towards women. I remember seeing one of the members of the rap trio Migos rocking a Goyard purse; the hyper-masculinity generally associated with rap music and culture combined with the feminine connotations of a designer purse made this really stand out to me. Times are changing, in recent seasons some big brands are responding to this need; Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Fendi are offering styles of accessories that are much more gender neutral in their utility and how they’re marketed. This can be seen further when you are really, as the kids say – ‘in your bag’ (pun intended) – the designated gender for that particular item shouldn’t matter; it’s just fabric at the end of the day, and if it speaks to you, it speaks to you. As they say; ‘if the shoe fits, wear it’ – I find this to be particularly true for all accessories; bags, eyewear— you name it. (more…)

  | Eyestylist 15th February 2021

Menswear Exclusive: RIGARDS giveaway at Lucentement

Menswear highlight: eyewear from salvaged wood – Le Wood GIVEAWAY launched by Lucentement

Avantgarde designers Rigards and creative fashion platform Lucentement have joined forces in a celebration of the platform’s 100,000 followers on Instagram: with a gift of a pair of Le Wood sunglasses.

One of Rigards’ most exciting recent works, created in collaboration with Uma Wang, the Limited Edition frame is noteworthy not just for its customized elements (vintage grey rims and light mirrored lens), but also for the extraordinary crafting of the frame: the wood is coated in gossamer-thin bamboo paper, and hand-painted using a traditional application of lacquer, with careful drying, sanding, and smoothing between each layer, until the final matte top layer is applied to produce lacquer with less shine, delivering a unique rendition of the time-honored art form. The frame is created in salvaged wood – paired simply and harmoniously with ultralight aluminum-magnesium — giving the natural material a second life in a frame that represents a piece of wearable ‘eyewear’ art.

Le Wood sunglasses by Rigards x Uma Wang

Named “Le Wood”, this iconic collaborative style between Rigards and Uma Wang was designed to tie in with a reflection on dual themes: the powerful mountain scapes of the Andes, and the timeless elegance of Bauhaus ingenuity. Embracing a deceptively unfussy shape, the frame juxtaposes two nature-derived materials of opposite properties and two different worlds of traditions, skills, and associations, culminating in a singularly potent aesthetic.

For a chance to win this beautiful and iconic frame by RIGARDS x Uma Wang, we invite you to visit the Instagram page @lucentement + website: www.lucentement.com

About Lucentement – Lucentement was founded in 2013 by brothers Oscar and Ralph. The brothers started Lucentement to help Avant-Garde designers get more exposure via social media channels. Lucentement strives to become the most trusted and disruptive storytelling online platform within the avant-garde Niche. With the necessity to protect and at the same time credit this niche for its incredible influence on the fashion industry, Lucentement vision is to express avant-garde fashion and designers online in the most righteous way possible.

About RigardsRigards leads the way in avant-garde frame design, producing designs in unusual natural materials and exquisite metal combinations and influenced by incredible textures and patterns of the natural world. Founder Ti Kwa has established a new aesthetic style for handcrafted eyewear which is sought after by global connoisseurs of design and leaders in the field of avant-garde fashion and eyewear worldwide.

  | Eyestylist 11th February 2021

Men’s glasses: Haffmans & Neumeister, ULX Collection

A “most wanted” effortless shape in Spring 21 – quintessentially 1970s

Young label Haffmans & Neumeister have risen quickly in the world of glasses design. The frames like Harrington, in stainless steel sheet, are pure, minimal and effortless – technically focused, with the smallest components and “reduced” hinge design concepts, in narrow and delicate constructions. Built on timeless classics and well-known spectacle shapes of the past, in this case a 1970s square, with an architectural expertise, the glasses are nonetheless as much a reflection of contemporary style with functionality and the kind of comfort and performance that works for every day.

Described as “a straight shoot all the way” – Haffmans & Neumeister model Harrington in the ULX collection – pictured in champagne – a material thickness of 0.7mm is impressive

About the brand: Haffmans & Neumeister is a Berlin based brand creating frames characterised by innovative technical solutions, aesthetic and timeless design and high-quality materials. Concentrating on the essentials of design, the glasses are practical, accessible and ageless. The brand was founded in 2016 by Daniel Haffmans, brother Philipp Haffmans and Jean-Pierre Neumeister. Find out more at www.haffmansneumeister.com/about-eyewear-handmade-in-berlin

  | Eyestylist 10th February 2021

Men’s glasses – Capote Eyewear

One to watch: a sophisticated style at Capote, inspired by the power and magic of  Ibiza, finely tuned with specialist manufacture

One of the highlighted brands in our TREND bulletin on Menswear directions this month, Capote offers mystery, attitude and distinctive, handcrafted design traits – inspired by its Balearic roots and the wild and diverse character of the island of Ibiza. Designed by Venezuelan born Alex Capote, the spirit of the collection today derives from ‘the karma life philosophy’, a notion of simplicity and minimalist attitude, authenticity of design and artisanal creativity.  The frames have evolved since the brand was first conceived in  2013, introducing fine materials such as titanium, beta titanium, Mazzucchelli acetate and aluminium, Italian or Japanese production and a more refined and curated style in the construction. Above: Capote / Cymatics frame 639Hz

Black on black frame and lens and a hint of a 1990s influence: Capote / Cymatics frame 741Hz – Photography: alexcaballerofotografia

Poised for the new season, the current frame shapes are tailored and not oversized – going against the grain of more commercial trends and relying instead on geometric, layered features and sophisticated tones of black, silver or gold, matt finishes and lens colours ranging from mirrored red to black smoke, understated yet edgy in black on black.

Capote / Cymatics frame 417Hz – the frames in the Cymatics collection are named after a frequency with healing properties  Photography: alexcaballerofotografia

Early work by Alex Capote was created with the desert festivals such as Burning Man in mind. Capote made a design for the desert – the Incubus, with attributes to cope with the extreme conditions of the dust, an adjustable black rubber strap and avantgarde design in vintage-effect rubber and silver steel. Capote Eyewear has its own store in Ibiza at Carrer de Manuel Sora, 17, 07800 Eivissa. Find out more at www.capoteyewear.com

To read our TREND bulletin and forecast for the finest Men’s Eyewear this year, click on the link here: www.eyestylist.com/eyestylist-trend-bulletin-issue-2/