Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 21st January 2020

Eyewear show: 100% Optical, London

Collection recommendations

This year’s edition of 100% in London will bring together a cross-section of frame collections, with independent labels represented by companies from far and wide including California, Copenhagen, Paris, Madrid and Brighton in the UK. The excellent quality and craftsmanship of the independent collections offer the UK independent optician attending this event much opportunity and should be a point of reference as an important direction for their stores, providing customers with new, exciting design-focused premium quality eyewear.

The fair will highlight major players such as Design Eyewear Group, Orgreen Optics and Morel France alongside small artisan labels and newcomers who we look forward to seeing (some are showing for the first time in the UK). Highlights in this area will include: Lara D’ (Italy), Booth + Bruce (UK), FACE A FACE (Paris), Covrt Project (UK), Kaleos (Spain), Kirk and Kirk (Brighton, UK) Nina Mûr (Spain), and Kame Mannen (Japan).

Above: FACE A FACE will be present at 100% Optical, with Design Eyewear Group. Among their new collections is the latest range of Bocca frames – Bocca Pixel, in eye-catching raw machined acetate, which is sandblasted and polished. The Bocca shoe has been abstracted in this cool collection inspired by 3d pixelated effects. The colour selection includes delicate pastels and exciting patterns. Find out more: www.faceaface-paris.com

Look for lilac in 2020: model Andrew by Kirk and Kirk

Kirk and Kirk is a familiar face at 100%. The Brighton-based company will show its Kaleidoscope, Centena and Spectrum lines which offer uplifting colour and some of the hottest tones of the year. Find out more at www.kirkandkirk.com

 

Chico by SALT. Optics – in a collaboration with Second / Layer

SALT. Optics are a go-to brand for quality, and continue to do well with the UK market. Their frames are designed in California and made in Japan, with all the attributes of a well-made premium-quality design with unique details such as traditionally inspired pins and rivets. The classic or nature-inspired colour schemes are evocative of the land and seascapes of coastal California. www.saltopics.com

Turning ocean waste into sustainable eyewear: Sea2See

Anyone seeking out a strong, sustainable eyewear collection should visit Sea2See Eyewear at the London show. The collections by this enterprising company continue to expand. The frames are made from 100% recycled plastic ocean waste. Find out more at www.sea2see.org

Lunettes Alf comes to London from Paris this year

One of our favourite French newcomers has just reserved to attend the show in London. Lunettes Alf is an artisan label with a love for retro style and elegant handcrafted design work. Find out about this brand at www.lunettes-alf.com

Cuantica collection /  Nina Mûr : inspired by the microcosm

Nina Mûr is attending the London fair for the first time. Based in Madrid, the brand produces elegant, architectural eyewear pieces with a focus on advanced – often sustainable – materials (including wood) and special concepts of design “with a story”. One of their latest ranges is inspired by the microcosm (above),  with superimposed layers and materials which have an unusual and surprising finish. www.ninamur.com

A highlight of the 100% optical fair, the RCA competition for new talent is this year focused on the theme of ‘Love’. The work of the finalists will be on display throughout the weekend. The finalists are: Rebecca Armstrong, Womenswear, 1st year; Yili Cao, Womenswear (Millinery); Annie Mackinnon, Womenswear, 1st year; Adam Frost, Womenswear, 1st year; Reiss Dendie, Footwear, 1st year; Kitfung Sun, Menswear Accessories, 2nd year. 

To register for 100% Optical, visit the website: www.100percentoptical.com Feature written by Clodagh Norton exclusively for www.eyestylist.com.  The permission of the author must be sought to reprint or re-publish the materials in this article.

| Eyestylist 17th January 2020

Beaumour Paris: inventive leather goods

The first stylish eyewear wallet, by Quentin Stubbe

For those of us who love our frames, and travel or move about regularly, Beaumour Paris is an exciting new accessories entry, with products in leather produced by hand. The star of the line is an eyewear wallet – the first of its kind, designed to accommodate all the essentials: while it has the form of a “classic” specs case it opens neatly into a wallet with space to protect your glasses or sunglasses.

A compact wallet with eyewear case by Beaumour: made in vegetable tanned leather

The wallet can hold a frame and up to 10 cards, with space for banknotes, tickets or an ID card. Built inside the lining is an RFID system, an effective protection against contactless credit card hacking.

About the designer: Quentin Stubbe is passionate about style and quality, and has studied luxury leather production and bootmaking. He launched Beaumour Paris in 2019 and has quickly received orders for his innovative leather goods, and the first good-looking Eyewear Wallet. The product range, which also includes a card holder glasses case, is available online at www.beaumour-paris.com and through over 150 opticians in Europe. Beaumour Paris will exhibit for the first time at Mido in Milan in February. For more information about Beaumour visit www.beaumour-paris.com

| Eyestylist 16th January 2020

Eyewear show: opti 2020 – a showcase for the start of the decade

The first eyewear show of the year – opti 2020 – set the stage for what’s to come, with packed halls proposing a huge variety of niche eyewear labels, iconic brands and high-profile fashion brands – from around the world.

Our personal highlights at the show will be featured in the weeks to come. They included the new face scanning app at the German 3D printed brand You Mawo and a variety of collection launches that were innovative and impeccably produced. We have much to say on new colour, style directions and design trends, as well as having identified some impactful Limited Editions from California, Marseilles and Milan.

The beautifully curated opti BOXES cater to those who wish to explore emerging collections. Participants of note in this area included from France, Lunettes Alf, from the UK, Covrt Project (winner of the Newcomer Award at the fair), from Italy, Beate Leinz, and from Israel, Tough Character. Above: Leinz Eyewear by Berlin based eyewear designer, Beate Leinz. The collection, which is the designer’s first eponymous line, is presented under the concept of ‘contrasts and hybrids’. The frames feature two contrasting materials – acetate and and polyamide, achieving a mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship with high-end Belgian technology, created and coordinated from Berlin. www.leinzeyewear.com

Lunettes Alf: artisan sunglasses, produced in France

Lunettes Alf was present in the opti BOXES. This young French brand is attracting much interest from top level European independent stores who identify with its beautiful classical focus on restrained colours and shapes inspired from the past. www.lunettes-alf.com

Titanium expertise: Coblens has 10 new shapes in full titanium

Coblens Eyewear from Germany showed its latest titanium styles and a chic new line in Japanese acetate paired with titanium temples called Stadtgarten, coming into stores this season. The Coblens collection has expanded dramatically with intricate finishing and colorations and very elegant shapes in the Endlos “rimless” series. See the latest styles at www.coblens.com

Model Tottori by theo © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

We were delighted to see a new theo frame family for January 2020, inspired by the powerful beauty of the contours and folds of sand dunes around the world. Tottori (above) – named after a dune system on the North West coast of Japan – is one of five shapes in this group of designs that explore soft sloping forms, steep angles and delicate dips. www.theo.be

Neon Berlin: 3D printed eyewear from the German independent label

Neon Berlin showed their new 3d printed collection on an impeccably stylish sustainable exhibition stand that packed into two small hand held boxes – for easy transportation by train. The brand is consistently creative with their style and DNA and explore new materials, groundbreaking manufacturing methods as well as sustainable concepts – an area that was a particular focus at the opti fair this year. Find out more at www.neonberlin.com

In 2021, opti takes place from 8th to 10th January in Stuttgart, Germany. To find further details about the new location visit www.opti.de

 

| Eyestylist 14th January 2020

Men’s style Milan: On the Street

Oversized full-wrap visors (we prefer them slightly retro), geometric statement sunglasses, edgy 70s, 80s or 90s shapes and all the classics we’d expect in metal or acetate. Large or small. Chunky, subtly sporty, and even rimless. Not forgetting the many different versions of the aviator. The streets of Milan are always notable when fashion week takes off and everyone’s in town…and for eyewear, all manner of styling showed up outside the shows, with the emphasis on statement-making via redefined classics. Above: Alex Badia (@thealexbadia) in leather with angular, dark tortoise visor. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com at Milan Fashion Week (FW2020).

Model Rob Drishti wears 90s vintage sunglasses

The 1990s continues to play a role in 2020. We expect more focus on angular styles for men with a penchant for classic black edgy looks and dark tortoise tones.

Yilmaz Aktepe, Editor in chief, Men’s Health Germany – in Kyme sunglasses

The round traditional eyewear styles are still with us, of course. Classic tortoise designs with the key hole bridge are always a go-to option for the best-dressed in Milan.

River Viiperi, model and owner of @rvgear

Off the catwalk, River Viiperi’s street-vibe look is made easy with a solid metal frame featuring an angled oval eye shape. For more images from Milan, visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.

| Eyestylist 13th January 2020

Tim Williams, YR

Globally known as the ‘kings of customisation’ and the go-to fashion tech company for all things personalised including apparel, footwear and accessories, YR was launched seven years ago by Welsh school friends, Tim Williams and Tom Hogan. The company has worked with a wide spectrum of brands, as well as high-profile fashion labels – Michael Kors, Nike and Ralph Lauren are among their client list – and has offices in New York, LA, Hong Kong and Tokyo.  They are on course to turnover £10m this year. Eyestylist spoke to Tim Williams, Co-Founder.

Customisation continues to be a very hot topic in fashion. Can you outline how YR started and how the business has evolved? We started in 2013 as a custom fashion brand – a consumer brand that enabled anyone to come into a YR store and easily create designs on tees, sweatshirts and accessories and then watch as they were printed in just a few minutes. We were very early adopters of experience first retail – no printed inventory in the store, so everything was made on-demand, and the whole theatre and excitement of creating the item and then seeing it come to life live, in-store was really something unique.

YR opened multiple stores all over the world – but sadly it was a difficult business, none of us were experienced at fashion retail and it was tough without serious investment. So, we repositioned what we did and went B2B – helping other brands bring on-demand and customisation to life in-store, at events or online. Now we have 5 offices in London, LA, New York, Tokyo and Hong Kong and work with brands on all manner of projects – big and small – all over the world. It’s quite the evolution!

You have worked with global fashion retailers including DKNY, REEBOK and L’Oreal. What has been your most exciting creative project to date? That’s a really hard question and actually the answer is, the most creative time was when YR was a consumer brand. It was exciting that we could make decisions and release artwork packs and see how customers liked them, with live feedback talking to them and seeing their reactions. We worked with some great artists in our London stores; one personal favourite was LA illustrator Bob Motown who loves pizza and cats. Commercially my favourite creative project was working with Liberty where we brought Liberty prints to life on scarves and t-shirts in the iconic London store. Customers could use the patterns to make new designs and add their own touches, it was really incredible to be able to delve into the archives.

YR x Lagerfeld: A tribute to Karl: The White Shirt Project

Are you a creative or a tech geek? Who brings the creative direction to YR? I think I am creative, it would be hard not to be and get where we are. But, I don’t think its either/or when it comes to tech – there are plenty of creative techie people. I guess I am one of them, I understand the technology but also have a love of creativity, art and design. My business partner and long term friend, Tom, is both creative and highly technical – so not only is Tom heading up our software side but he also drives the creative concept of the business alongside me.

What is your view of how this direction in customisation will further evolve? Made-to-order, bespoke and custom products date back hundreds of years – the great tailoring tradition used to be the preserve of the rich and now, YR, and many others are working hard to make customisation and ‘one of one’ manufacture a reality for mass goods. So I think this is just the beginning. Evolution will take many forms – today, in-store you use touchscreens to make or tweak designs, maybe that will be more gesture or voice-controlled in the near future. The production techniques are moving forward rapidly as machine manufacturers understand this new need for smaller, more nimble machinery. I think there are lots of new production techniques and customisation options on the horizon, not previously possible. Jewellery and accessories are a large area that has a lot of potential. I think 3D printing will come of age and be quicker and better than ever. More importantly, I think consumers will cherish their custom made products more than ever as we strive to have less ‘stuff’ but better and more meaningful relationships with clothing and accessories. The future is exciting!

YR: Collaboration with Bathing Ape in Selfridges, London

As a company, with offices far afield, what is your key focus? Is sustainability something you think about? Of course, the global nature means there are some elements of travel that are not good for the environment. That is an issue for us as a business. But, we are enabling a more sustainable future – one reason is the answer above – we want consumers to fall in love with their items and cherish them, something that bespoke and customisation really encourages. As we start 2020 on-demand production and a move away from just customisation is key for YR. That means that instead of a customer choosing a pre-made item, the item is made just for them when they want to buy it. This hugely reduces waste and eliminates stockpiles over time. Sustainability and reduction in oversupply is a key reason we do what we do – we are working alongside some of fashion’s biggest brands to make them more sustainable whilst improving the customer experience.

What inspires you personally? I love building the company and doing something that people love. At YR we put our team first, which means we grow and learn and get better, together. That’s inspiring. Also, I love new ways of doing things and being creative with finding solutions. I’m passionate about turning the traditional business model of fashion on its head and I am constantly inspired by the people I meet.

Do you enjoy being in the fast lane of the new directions in fashion and on demand production? Sometimes. Ha. That’s the truth, really. It’s great when it’s great, but being in the fast lane or on the leading edge of anything opens you to issues and there is no proven path for what we are doing. That can cause customers to have very high expectations – which is not always fun. However, for the large part, it’s great – thinking we have helped shape a market that didn’t exist before us (in-store design via large screens) is interesting. Having our tech running all over the world feels good, and most of the time cancels out the stress of the demanding side of being in the fast lane. Find out more at https://thisisyr.com

Interview written by Clodagh Norton