Art Deco Vintage Oxford: TVR® (True Vintage Revival), Japan
Inspired by the classic pince-nez spectacles from the early days of the Renaissance and the late 1800s, when eyeglasses became a highly popular style statement amongst the bourgeoisie, the two new models from the Japanese independent label TVR® work on transforming much loved antique styling into 21st century wearable design. The frames are made in Sabae, Japan, the heart of eyewear production in the country and a place that is revered for its level of artisan quality, workmanship and traditional handcrafting. Above: The new TVR® 525, a round eye shape available in a selection of colours, including antique gold or silver.
Both TVR® 525 (top) and TVR® 526 are also the brand’s first collection made entirely in pure Japanese SPM. From the frame to the temples and bridge, the exquisite round and Panto shapes are patented in the material for exclusivity. The metal temples are also engraved with intricate gold-filled design akin to original vintage Art Deco patterns, worked upon by master craftsmen with exceptional skill and know-how.
Developed by Shintaro Kato in 1930 in Japan, SPM is a precious metal alloy. It was a rare commodity at that time, and cherished by Japan’s Showa royal family for its hardiness, resistance and compatibility with human skin. As such, the export of raw SPM material was not permitted at the time. Today, its remarkable characteristics make it popular in dental accessories and tools for plastic surgery, and TVR® is one of few labels who use it with creativity and passion in eyewear. Despite the name, SPM doesn’t contain platinum — instead, it refers to the soft platinum colour after it has been polished. More importantly, the material retains its shine even after a long period of time. The 68-year-old master craftsman Kanamaru Harumi is behind the production of the two new SPM metal frames from TVR® (True Vintage Revival) – Japan. Find out more about the brand TVR® at www.tvropt.com
Independent eyewear: Paradigm 19-11
A brand new line with a youthful vision, committed to independent eyewear style for everyday wear: Paradigm is offering a striking balance of style and value, with “something for everyone” in terms of details and tonal combinations. Launched in 2019, the collection offers a series of modern everyday basics, like the 19-11 geometric shape, in well-matched contemporary materials and colorations with a twist. Model 19-11 combines an acetate rim inside a thin metal structure – produced in gold or rose gold (as a sun or optical style). Top image: Model/stylist Garret Gooch (www.garretgooch.com) wears Paradigm model 19-11.
The independent Paradigm brand was designed by a team of creatives at Kenmark Eyewear (USA) – to be very diverse, fitting a wide variety of faces, ethnicities, ages and personal styles. For more details visit the Kenmark website at www.kenmarkeyewear.com
Swiss design, Sol Sol Ito: 044 DF
Swiss design label Sol Sol Ito has some memorable shapes amongst its ‘Original’ collection, of which the 039 and 035 are two of the standout shapes (find more of the models at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/05/sol-sol-ito-captivating-sun-styles-that-sizzle/). This month, another standout one has joined the series, based on a classic teardrop pilot shape with a beautiful double bridge. A close inspection reveals a slight lift on the upper rim and a svelte ‘sculpted’ lower rim, typical of the 1970s (both the acetate and metal designs in this genre).
Colours at Sol Sol Ito come together as if from an artist’s palette, with some of the most outstanding yet subtle graduated tones we are currently seeing and a choice of rich hues as well as transparent ‘crystal’ pastel tones. The new 044 DF frame is offered in hand polished yellow-green, brown-orange and beige-gold – paired with the lightweight modular ‘click-in’ temples, the design of which Sol Sol Ito has become especially well-known.
Sol Sol Ito glasses and sunglasses are produced by design duo Monika Fink (designer/sculptor) and Sandra Kaufmann (co-head, industrial design, Zurich University) in Switzerland. Their sun and optical collections are stocked by some of the finest opticians worldwide including Auerbach & Steele (London). For more details and further stockists, visit www.solsolito.com. Above: Photography for Sol Sol Ito by Hans Hansen.
John Lennon’s glasses in London auction
Sotheby’s to auction items from across The Beatles’s career including iconic Oliver Goldsmith wire-framed sunspecs
Described by the auction house as “The most iconic sunglasses in rock and roll history”, the round metal rimmed glasses were given to Lennon for a role in the film ‘How I Won the War’ and caught on as his signature look. They later came into the possession of The Beatles’s’ chauffeur, Alan Herring, left behind in the back of his Mercedes.
“In the summer of 1968 I had picked John up with Ringo and George in Ringo’s Mercedes and driven the boys into the office,” recalls Herring. “When John got out of the car I noticed he’d left these sunglasses on the back seat and one lens and one arm had become disconnected. I asked John if he’d like me to get them fixed for him. He told me not to worry, they were just for the look! He said he’d send out for some that fit. I never did get them mended – I just kept them as they were as John had left them.”
The glasses themselves were a version of the model ‘Cluj’ (see above) and an example with the same gold finish is still to be found in the Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses London archive, according to Claire Goldsmith, Oliver’s great granddaughter and custodian to an extensive rare collection of Oliver Goldsmith original frames with a rich and fascinating history. Claire said: “John Lennon was renowned for his eyewear and in particular the round metal frames we made for him. To be the brand that designed them is something we are very proud of.”
The Beatles sale includes a number of other curious items including the psychedelic portrait of Lennon by Larry Smart (above). Also up for sale are a semi-acoustic guitar owned by George Harrison (guide price £40,000 to £60,000), shirts worn by the band, a parking ticket, and a collection of items from the homes of The Beatles, which include a toaster.
In 2007, a pair of Lennon’s sunglasses – worn during the band’s 1966 tour of Japan – were expected to fetch £1 million pounds, according to The Telegraph. The final amount paid for the glasses was never disclosed. (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1559161/John-Lennons-sunglasses-sold-at-auction.html).
The Sotheby’s auction takes place online from 2pm GMT on 6th December 2019 – 13th December 2019. For more information visit www.sothebys.com . All rights reserved. Photography: @ Sotheby’s Auction House / PA
Note after publication: the frames sold for £137,500 in the auction in December 2019.
Innovation 2020: opti Munich, Germany
Must-sees at the Munich fair – a packed fair is coming for January 2020
The Munich fair is expecting a busy turnout at the start of 2020. From emerging labels right through to historic eyewear brands, the showcase of eyewear collections at this important event gives a thorough overview of design developments, shining the spotlight on young innovators, creators as well as a host of high-profile fashion eyewear designers.
One of the standouts every year at opti – for artisan frames – is Res/Rei Italy, a small label with a dedicated following, owing to their creative style and close collaboration with Mazzucchelli which results in some very unique and detailed acetate materials. Their products are excellent with many unique and creative shapes and timeless qualities. We also particularly enjoy their covetable jewellery line – made from the leftover acetates – and offering a very chic and special design, with colours that match up with frames. Above: model Begonia from the nature-inspired Flowers collection at Res/Rei – different acetates combine and overlap with each other like the petals of exotic flowers. The frame is pictured in a pink/light pink colorway matched with plain grey lenses. Find out more at www.resrei.com
Photography & Graphic Design!
Belgian design innovators theo have had a particularly spectacular raft of designs launched through 2019, with highlights including their mouth-watering Layer Cake series – featuring titanium plate designs created with two different layers.
At opti, theo will release a completely new “typically theo” eyewear family which they tell us is “warm, soft and comforting yet strong, powerful and unyielding, like….sand.” Check their new website at www.theo.be for more details about their collections.
The Alium collection is always a must-see at the FACE A FACE stand. This is a very distinctive line with focus on men’s eyewear where a balance of technological excellence and a modern approach to colour offers something quite beautiful and different to wear. See more Alium frames at www.faceaface-paris.com
We are Annu launched their collection at opti this year (check our Eyestylist opti review 2019 – www.eyestylist.com/2019/02/exceptional-design-at-opti/). We admire both the imaginative concept of paper clip inspired frames and their commitment to innovation and team success. A must-see for opti – find out more at www.weareannu.com
SALT. Optics travels from California for the opti event, with a collection inspired by nature and produced with rigorous Japanese quality driven techniques. Alongside the main line collection, the brand has launched some must-see fashion-focused collabs, which include SALT. + Second Layer and SALT. + Fred Segal where attention to detail and shared values such as quality materials have resulted in exceptional limited editions. www.saltoptics.com
opti – the international trade show for optics & design, takes place at Fairground Munich from 10th to 12th January, 2020. Registration is now open to trade visitors at www.opti.de. Written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved.