Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 23rd December 2019

Ones to watch at 100%, London – 2020 edition

By Clodagh Norton  – The 100% trade fair in London promises a huge display of eyewear collections in January, alongside the latest tech, lens releases and state-of-the-art optical equipment for opticians and optical practices. Their growing “studio area” for independent labels will welcome new additions for the 2020 show – among which the fair organisers highlight Coral Eyewear (www.coraleyewear.com), an eco-friendly frame producer, and Kaleos, the Barcelona brand offering innovative fashion frames at affordable prices. Above: model Pollitt by Kaleos – released this month in new colours. Find out more: www.kaleoscollection.com

Scenario by Ørgreen Optics

Titanium frames remain hugely popular this season and Ørgreen Optics will showcase some of their highly successful minimal modern styles – named after infamous rap tunes. The strong lines and contemporary details of these frames exude originality and freedom of expression. Find out more at www.orgreenoptics.com

Perspective Loop by Gotti Switzerland

Returning to the London show for 2020, Gotti Switzerland is one of the fair’s prestigious luxury exhibitors and a key innovator in eyewear design: their ultralight, minimal Perspective collection was launched in 2017 and has seen some original new editions including the Perspective “Loop” series (2019 launch) with delicate 3D printed matt polyamide rims – a must see at 100%. www.gotti.ch

Bolly Wool by Woow Eyewear

Woow is already a favourite French collection at 100% – much loved by the UK market for its bright quirky designs and creative colour combinations. The latest limited edition was the Bolly Wool capsule, inspired by “Bollywood” with Mandala patterns on temples and spiced-up tonal mixes of cardamom, saffron, mint and red pepper. Frames from the collection can be seen at www.wooweyewear.com

SALT. Optics from California: timeless design, quality construction

SALT. Optics is one of the most distinctive of the US brands attending the 100% fair for 2020. SALT. enjoys a strong relationship with the UK, with the ophthalmic and sun collections available at some of the most unique British independent optical retailers. Their latest designs will go on show at the exhibition, packed with wonderful classic shapes re-interpreted with modern elements and uplifting nature-inspired colours. Find out more: www.saltoptics.com

Kayla by Lara D’

Lara D’ by Lara D’Alpaos comes to London from the Italian spectacle-making region of Belluno. The latest range includes laminated acetate frames characterised by clean, well defined lines and lovely colour combinations that offer a bold and fresh perspective for the New Year. Find our more at www.laradeyewear.com

100% Optical will take place from 25-27th January 2020 at ExCel exhibition centre, London. The event is exclusively for trade and showcases an overview of eyewear, lenses, optical equipment and business services. A selection of independent brands attend the event each year. A sustainability angle has been added to the fair in recent weeks. The organisers have promised to plant a tree in the name of every optical professional who signs up for the show between now and 8th January and who attends the show from 25th to 27th January, “to recognise and do something positive about the climate emergency.”

For more information visit www.100percentoptical.com – This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. All rights reserved.

| Eyestylist 17th December 2019

Eyewear trend: Pantone colour 2020 – Classic Blue

Poised. Self-assured. And elegant in its simplicity. Pantone also describes its colour of the coming year as multi-sensory, suggestive of the sky at dusk and reassuring in its qualities, while encouraging us to look beyond the obvious to expand our thinking.

As far as eyewear trends go, blue has always held its own, across a spectrum of dark to light tones, from sky to indigo, and turquoise to lapis. Just because the classic blue is back on trend, all blueish hues are likely to see a revival or revamp, through mono, combo and gradient proposals, all of which will have a different style and look for the face. Above: acetate model Brian by Ørgreen Optics. For some of the acetate frames in this new line, colour designer Sahra Lysell says there are as many as three different tones in one single frame. The subtle colour pictured is called ‘Gradient Blue Sand Grey’. www.orgreenoptics.com

Get Hired by Woow Eyewear; a dark translucent blue in an easy mix with a hint of brown and a bright red temple tip

The new Get Hired frame at Woow proposes an artistic mix of tones with a translucent effect in the blue acetate. See more styles at www.wooweyewear.com

Lemon Curd by theo – Layer Cake series – an eletric blue with a dark blue inner rim – an eyewear trend we see rising

The Layer Cake series by theo is inspired by the sweetest desserts you can imagine, from Black Forest gateaux to Coconut Cream. The colour combinations subtly hint at the effect of the layers (as above in solid blue with a dark inner rim on the eye shape) or combine very different tones to ‘really stand out!’ Find out more at www.theo.be. Pantone’s colour of the year 2020 is 10-4052 / Classic Blue. By Clodagh Norton

| Eyestylist 15th December 2019

Japanese designers: Ue-Shita by Padma Image

Padma Image, the Japanese independent eyewear line (which is yet to arrive in Europe) continues to inspire us with its asymmetrical spectacles and experimental design work which is always surprising, skilful and unique in presentation. The new “Ue-Shita” translates “Top and Under” – it combines the quirky style of the frame which has a half-rimless asymmetrical construction with bright colours and patterns inspired by the painter Ichiro Yamaguchi and his work TONE – recreated in the frame with care with a UV layered printing technique.

Artist Ichiro Yamaguchi’s work as inspiration –  TONE

Padma Image by young designer Meiji Hasui looks forward to launching in Europe shortly. Eyestylist has been following the brand since 2014. See earlier models at: https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/11/rotary-no-50/  https://www.eyestylist.com/2015/06/eyestylist-talks-to-yuuki-hasui/ – For more information: www.padmaimage.com CN

| Eyestylist 11th December 2019

We Are Annu: 3D printed

Emerging label We Are Annu represent the new-generation of innovators in 3D printed eyewear from Germany. Having created their brand amongst friends four years ago, they are now evolving their output and creative direction through shared values, commitment to quality and a genuine desire to innovate. The brand currently specializes in durable, lightweight 3D-printed frames and uses a screwless titanium “Clip” hinge which lends a flexible and robust structure to the design. They also offer a choice of temple size and nose pad, giving an adaptable fit for all face shapes and sizes.

We are Annu is a start-up with a particular design and philosophy. Can you explain how you set up and who the team is? We started in summer 2016, and over the past three years, the team has grown from a single person alone in a workshop, to a group of eighteen of us. Most of whom are also shareholders. We developed it this way because we wanted to create a team of young people who could make something happen together and at the same time, for themselves. Our sense of ownership and responsibility to one another is what makes our brand unique. And this approach has proved a success for us – over and over again.  

We Are Annu: flexible, hard-wearing and lightweight – made in Nuremberg, Germany

As a young, creative company, what are your aspirations? Our focus is simple, we aspire to make the best possible product. That is why we spend considerable time on the details, working and reworking solutions. Our approach is that of continued refinement through an iterative design process because we want to continue to make it better. The end goal for us is design-simplicity, executed with intelligence and mastery – which isn’t easy to achieve. If we succeed, that will be another story. But for now, we keep hold of the idea as a belief and a working process to keep chasing – we push ourselves forward.

We Are Annu: sleek Japanese titanium temples

What has your experience been so far as a start-up in this business? It is a very competitive market, so we have to choose carefully where to put our energy. And for us, it’s the product, the customers and the opticians every time. These are the most important things to us. Good people and good products. We are now looking forward to establishing long-lasting relationships and forging new ones as we grow our business, and so far, it has been amazing.

It is incredible to think that we only launched in opti in 2019, so we are not even a year old officially. And we have found ourselves on this super exciting journey with so many great people.

From where do you draw inspiration? We are very passionate about creativity and culture and draw inspiration from many places. Art, design, music, the whole creative spectrum really. At the root of this, are the folks behind the work, this is what we are inspired by, people.

We are currently developing an exciting platform called Friends of Annu, and this is where we present the stories of interesting people we know and like. It is still in its infancy, but we hope to build it into something comprehensive. Eventually, it will become an editorial archive of real people and their stories. It is partly a labour of love, but we think a good one.

We Are Annu: glasses with minimal proportions

Are you working together in one office or are you in different places?  Both really, we are a German company based in Nuremberg, and we have an office and workshop here, but we also have members of our team who work remotely out of Amsterdam, Tel-Aviv and Berlin.

We try to meet at least three times a year for full team workshops and to communicate daily through different communication and productivity platforms. It is incredible how connected we are by technology, it has revolutionized how we work and what we can achieve.

What are your plans for 2020? We are looking forward to each and every step along the way. Like I said earlier, we are dedicated to the details and are in a constant process of development – in all areas of our business. It could be design innovation, R&D, brand design, sales, manufacture, the team, everything. It’s all happening.

We have a new collection to present at the Munich trade fair in January. We will be showing what we believe to be the lightest eyewear on the market, and the frames are absolutely beautiful. Find out more: https://weareannu.com  Clodagh Norton interviewed Iddo Zimmermann, Co-Founder, We Are Annu.

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| Eyestylist 10th December 2019

Reinventing vintage: ‘pince-nez’ inspiration

Art Deco Vintage Oxford: TVR® (True Vintage Revival), Japan

Inspired by the classic pince-nez spectacles from the early days of the Renaissance and the late 1800s, when eyeglasses became a highly popular style statement amongst the bourgeoisie, the two new models from the Japanese independent label TVR® work on transforming much loved antique styling into 21st century wearable design. The frames are made in Sabae, Japan, the heart of eyewear production in the country and a place that is revered for its level of artisan quality, workmanship and traditional handcrafting. Above: The new TVR® 525, a round eye shape available in a selection of colours, including antique gold or silver.

Inspiration: a pince-nez without temples, c late 1800s.

Both TVR® 525 (top) and TVR® 526 are also the brand’s first collection made entirely in pure Japanese SPM. From the frame to the temples and bridge, the exquisite round and Panto shapes are patented in the material for exclusivity. The metal temples are also engraved with intricate gold-filled design akin to original vintage Art Deco patterns, worked upon by master craftsmen with exceptional skill and know-how.

TVR® 525 (round shape) + TVR® 526 (panto shape): inspired by the “Oxford” spectacle style of yesteryear

Developed by Shintaro Kato in 1930 in Japan, SPM is a precious metal alloy. It was a rare commodity at that time, and cherished by Japan’s Showa royal family for its hardiness, resistance and compatibility with human skin. As such, the export of raw SPM material was not permitted at the time. Today, its remarkable characteristics make it popular in dental accessories and tools for plastic surgery, and TVR® is one of few labels who use it with creativity and passion in eyewear. Despite the name, SPM doesn’t contain platinum — instead, it refers to the soft platinum colour after it has been polished. More importantly, the material retains its shine even after a long period of time. The 68-year-old master craftsman Kanamaru Harumi is behind the production of the two new SPM metal frames from TVR® (True Vintage Revival) – Japan. Find out more about the brand TVR® at www.tvropt.com