Eyestylist

Silmo 2024: energy, bold design, and intriguing innovation

Despite economic challenges around the world, the Silmo eyewear experience of 2024 felt optimistic, creative and full of energy, with a huge mash up of design innovations, tech ideas and start-ups and small artisan collections showing alongside iconic and well-established luxury and fashion eyewear brands 

A remarkable level of fine-tuning of the details in the luxury collections. A positively energetic and experimental buzz from young and new designers from different sides of the globe. And a particularly strong representation of tech companies and smart glasses products. These were just some of the notable areas which were highlighted at the Silmo 2024 event.

During the next months we will explore particular colour stories, innovations and new design directions we observed at the Paris show. Overall, the event was hugely popular amongst those who exhibited and those attending, thanks to the ever evolving breadth of design, craft expertise, material innovation and technology relating to eyewear on show there, alongside the incredible experiences and business opportunities for the industry’s leading and emerging designers to connect with influential buyers from around the world, collaborating to shape the future. Above: The Italian designer Cleto Munari showed his eponymous eyewear collection at Silmo for the second time – pictured, Ave Del Paraiso, produced from a 14mm thick acetate plate, the frame is created using two techniques for carving the material. The new releases on the Cleto Munari stand also included ‘Drop Drop Drop’, an acetate capsule with bold colours and 3-dimensional shapes featuring models Victor and Ernest and a handmade precious metal collection with exquisite signature details and jewellery embellishments.

Lafont Paris – model Rimini 4071

Many new models were released in the collection at Lafont Paris at Silmo: as well as a second edition frame produced in collaboration with Maison Sekimoto – named “Hanabi”, Lafont Paris also won a Silmo D’Or in the Children’s category, for a frame called Roudoudou, designed specifically for premature infants. The frame has been developed to meet the optical and morphological needs of this group and offers a bespoke size and geometry.

Lafont Paris – Roudoudou won the Silmo D’Or in the children’s category

The Lafont Paris collection also saw the addition of frames which served up gorgeous colour palettes, fresh gradients and a wide selection of vintage and modern inspiration for silhouettes, material combinations and exclusive details. www.lafont.com

“Brimming with bravado”: the graphic Duffle frame by l.a.Eyeworks – in carmine – a shade or red that is popular this season – as worn by Gai Gherardi at the event

l.a. Eyeworks showed a new collection popping with colour, vintage flavours and design energy. They described the temple seen here on their model Duffle as an extravagant nod to l.a.Eyeworks’ signature frog toe temple tip. The custom inlay appears on a variety of models in a contrast colour to the main frame. Model Duffle – in acetate with stainless steel temples – is one of those designs, like sister frame Totes – that feels chunky and out there for the season whilst being suitably balanced, lightweight and comfortable for all-day-long wear – the designer, Gai Gherardi was wearing it herself! The collection also featured faceted acetate designs with gorgeous gradient tones with eccentric names such as “bambi” and “rosewater brownie”. www.laeyeworks.com

Even Realities: “smarter smart glasses” – the content floats in your field of vision

Even Realities showed their smart glasses concept at Silmo 2024 for the first time. The brand has recently launched the G1 Digital Glasses which integrate advanced digital features into everyday frames designed to fit the face and feel comfortable and easy on the face. With the G1, they aimed to bridge the gap between smart glasses that are bulky and over-featured and AI companions that lack practical functionality for everyday use. We trialled the product and felt excited both by the ease of the functionality and the opportunities it will open in many different work places and specific activities. Find out more in our feature prior to Silmo: https://www.eyestylist.com/2024/07/smart-glasses-even-realities-and-g1-digital-panto-glasses/

Apex at MOVITRA

MOVITRA continues to deliver high-tech luxury in a collection that takes the combination of quality, comfort and design excellence in each product very seriously. The new collection which features Apex, a cutting-edge series in titanium, is particularly eye-catching for the technical details developed in each product and the unerring attention to detail, from the Motus patented closing system to small design features such as a two-piece titanium bridge with a polished and brushed finish. www.movitra.it

Rewind – original patterned acetates are a special feature in this Italian collection

In the start-up area, we were able to talk to the creatives at several emerging and new eyewear brands including Rewind (Italy – www.rewindeyewear.com), Otro Eyewear (Brazil – www.otro.com.br), Maggio Eyewear (France – www.maggiojulia.com), Maison Lune (France – https://www.maison-lune.fr) and BookArt (New York/Japan – https://bookartjewelry-int.com). All these examples show a dedication to quality craftsmanship and design individuality and we were taken by their use of colour and enthusiasm for expressive and individualistic design work.

BookArt – Cry Cry Gold was nominated for a Silmo D’Or: the jewellery style frame is delicate and beautifully crafted

We met Yuki Gotanda, the designer behind BookArt, the Japanese brand producing their jewellery oriented frames in Sabae (Japan). Each glass crystal teardrop is hand-set with the same precision as a diamond. Gotanda is a former graphic designer and launched BookArt in 2017. BookArt also showed us the frame called Fringe which features elegant gold chain tassels on the end tips.

The international optics and eyewear trade fair, Silmo Paris will take place from 26th to 29th September in 2025. Find more trends information and brand highlights from the show on Eyestylist in the weeks ahead! www.silmoparis.com

This feature was written by Clodagh Norton at Eyestylist.com. Copyright applies.

Sagaboi catwalk features Peoples from Barbados capsule

Linda Farrow x Peoples from Barbados capsule worn by models on Sagaboi catwalk

At London Fashion Week, the SAGABOI catwalk provided Caribbean inspiration in “Out and Bad”, a new collection which among other themes drew energy from the vibrant traditions of carnival. The models wore Peoples from Barbados capsule sunglasses created as a capsule with Linda Farrow, and a perfect compliment with its Bajan origins. Peoples from Barbados was founded in Barbados by optometrist and Eye Q Stylist store owner, Alicia Hartman.  Above: Sagaboi ‘Out and Bad’ September 2024 at London Fashion Week – photography credit / Michael Mapp

Sagaboi SS25 – photography by Jack Hall BFA.COM

The Linda Farrow x Peoples from Barbados Edition is a limited run of just 150 custom-made sunglasses/blue light blocking glasses available in three beautiful Bajan inspired colours of sorrel caramel and emerald green. All images by kind permission of Sagaboi. For more information visit https://peoplesfrombarbados.com

Rigards: The Viridi-anne – RG1999TVA

Among the many new pieces shown by Rigards at SILMO, the RG1999TVA stands out for its effortlessly wearable shape and lightweight titanium build

First presented at Paris Fashion Week in June, the new model produced in the collaboration between The Viridi-anne and Rigards draws on a vast array of inspirations. Rigards describes it as recalling an approaching wasp with its antennae up, while at the same time evoking a bird of prey in flight.

The frame has a striking clip system which is secured by a pair of S-curve features: this minute detailing comprises two opposite halves, one closed and one cut-out — flanking the nose bridge, a stylised take on the Yin-Yang symbol. Concealed behind the intricate details are magnets which attach to the main frame with ease and a minimal subtlety.

For decorative effect, the frame and the clip also feature an organic ripple motif, where the delicate lines reference patterns in nature such as dune waves and the ornate foliage of the pinstripe plant. This frame has been released in six elegant colours (some accented with uniquely-placed spot patinas), and it is offered with a semi-hard case made from a single piece of vegetable-tanned Santa Croce leather. For more information, visit the Rigards website at www.rigards.com

Censur by Prodesign: a win at SILMO 2024

Censur, created under the Prodesign brand, won a Silmo D’Or in the “Sunglasses – Eyewear Designer” category this weekend in Paris. The product release is part of a wider project named DANCE, which brings together the Danish and French design teams at Prodesign and Face a Face

Conceived as part of an innovative in-house design initiative called DANCE (combining parts of the words “Danmark x France“), with the idea of opening up a creative opportunity without boundaries, Censur by Prodesign represents a special departure for Design Eyewear Group and all those involved.

The concept originated from an internal design session involving all the designers and giving them free rein to work together and push the limits of traditional eyewear design without any rules. The two resulting frames have a distinctive structural bar across the lenses which the designers explain looks like a rectangular censor bar (the black bar used to cover up sensitive information). The desire was for this structural bold form to “challenge perceptions and invite wearers to experience the world from a different perspective”. In the frame, the beam design added a layer of mystery and sophistication. Above: Censur 2 by Prodesign won the Silmo d’Or 2024 in the “Sunglasses – Eyewear Designer category”

Censur 2 by Prodesign – the unisex frame is characterised by a square eye shape and a bold bar across the front

“Censur is about breaking the mould of traditional eyewear. We created something bold and futuristic, but also refined. The beam across the lenses was designed to evoke curiosity — it’s not just a design feature, it’s an invitation to see things differently. We’re thrilled to have won the SILMO d’Or for this design; it’s a celebration of the vision and collaboration behind Censur and our creative design lab DANCE.” — Lau Ruge, Design Eyewear Group

Censur 1 by Prodesign in bright purple

Censur 1 has the same distinctive bar as its sister frame, in a round shape that has an avant-garde and very individualistic look – and is well suited to the female face given the smaller shape. The colours are striking and include the bright purple above – a variation of one of the most important trending colours we saw at Silmo 2024 this weekend – as well as black or shiny silver. Find out more about Prodesign and Design Eyewear Group at https://designeyeweargroup.com

Silmo 2024 launch: RES/REI

The Italian company says its new collection is its most groundbreaking to date

Italian label RES/REI is launching a collection at SILMO 2024, which they describe as their most daring yet. Modernity meets timeless elegance in frames which celebrate a bold and creative aesthetic. Daring colour contrasts and Art-Deco-inspired forms are particularly eye-catching, as each frame is seen as a small work of art and study in colour.

Highlights include model Bloom, above, part of the nature-inspired Flowers Collection. The Flowers develop the theme of the inside-out, one frame inside the other. Two or three acetates with contrasting colours are combined to achieve the curious aesthetic. The colours and soft curves closely follow the inspiration of a blooming spring, filled with flowers. The different acetates combine and overlap with each other like the petals of an exotic flower. Above: model Bloom by RES/REI – a refined ombre or gradient effect in acetate; below, model Flora, also part of the iconic Flowers Collection – both frames represent the most innovative designs in this collection

Model Elite by RES/REI

The men’s style model Elite is part of the Gentlemen collection, conceived to suit the contemporary man. The frame is available in six elegant combination colours – a specialty at RES/REI including the green /grey pictured as well as a lovely blue havana / slate blue. The collection can be viewed in the SILMO Paris fair today. Find out more www.resrei.com