Eyestylist

Spring must-haves: green is a developing story

At the eyewear fairs this season, the green colour story has continued to play an important role for men and women. Popular tones include emerald, electric, olive and nature-inspired verdant green varieties such as moss…many of the favourites that have appeared on the catwalks

Across the sun and optical lines this season, green tones have grown considerably with a wide selection of brights, naturals and deeper more intense tones incorporated into the Spring/Summer collections. Lime, acid green and lighter greens are having a particularly interesting evolution in frame design, as colour confidence rises in apparel in general and eyewear sees a growing success with mood-boosting hues, block colour and bright unexpected colour combinations. Above: a classic approach – Casablanca by L.G.R, pictured in emerald green, one of the most popular shades of green that we spotted at Mido 2024 in February (www.lgrworld.com)

Classic green tones: Icons model Narai by Gigi Studios

Bio acetate model Narai by Gigi Studios is a lightweight classic shape from the Barcelona brand that comes in crystal green with brown anti-reflective UV protective lenses. This green variety with a translucent effect is particularly popular in eyewear because it is among the most versatile and flattering for most skin tones. www.gigistudios.com

A dopamine hit: BL0027 by VAVA Eyewear in an acid green inspired by Acid House – a feature of the new collection at VAVA

The green palette features plenty of acid tones for Spring/Summer 2024.  These vibrant hues command attention in sunwear and eyewear, potentially providing an uplifting “energising” experience for the wearer who wants to express their mood or personality. www.vavaeyewear.com

WOOW Eyewear’s Super Dancer Sunglasses in a vibrant neon green

French eyewear brand WOOW released a collection for the season inspired by the dance floor, with “jazzy silhouettes, hip shapes and shock colours”. The Super Dancer Sunglasses are designed as masculine sunglasses which aim to reinvent the language of serious eyewear with playfulness – through colour. https://wooweyewear.com

100% Optical London 24 to 26 February 2024 at Excel London - register for free
Götti Switzerland
OGI Eyewear
TVR True Vintage Revival
Res Rei
VAVA Eyewear
ROLF Spectacles
ERKERS
Green patterns featuring blue, brown and white flecks: Eat Street by OGI Eyewear

Model Eat Street by OGI Eyewear is an acetate design which combines a distinctive angular round shape with warm marbled colours including this fresh green patterned effect for the front paired with light green temples. www.ogi-eyewear.com

Struktur Eyewear’s The Legend combines dark olive green + grey

With its architectural form and green and grey combo, Struktur’s The Legend offers an original look for men or women, where form and colour go hand in hand in creating character and individuality in this statement piece. The way in which two colours are combined creates an interesting depth to the design: www.struktur-eyewear.fr

Graduated colour: Magdalen by Blackfin

Graduated colour is also popular again this season. The women’s Magdalen style is characterised by a geometric shape softened by a curved nosepiece; the palette of gradient colour, including the green above, lends the frame an elegant, sophisticated air. www.blackfin.eu

Ørgreen Optics – model Upside in the HAVN collection – an all stainless steel line with an impressive colour application featuring two shades of green

Combinations of green with other colours – or with other shades of green are also being explored widely. Model Upside in the HAVN collection at Ørgreen Optics is an example of a two-toned green colour combination, featuring a matt effect electric green with a matt effect darker military green, a fresh and unexpected interplay of tones that delivers a sophisticated twist on the current wave of green-themed frames. www.orgreenoptics.com

My Glasses Shop, Poulton

Emma Hutchinson’s colourful eyewear store brings curated contemporary frames to…everybody!

At age 15, Emma Hutchinson, owner of My Glasses Shop in Poulton, worked as a Saturday girl in a quaint local independent opticians, later progressing to a job in one of the largest surfacing and glazing facilities in the UK. “I fell into optics and I have ended up doing a bit of everything,” she told Eyestylist. “After mastering the skill set and gaining the knowledge of this process, I set off on the road meeting opticians up and down the UK as a representative. A practice I visited on the route then offered me the lucky opportunity to join the ABDO Dispensing Optician course alongside working in a beautiful design-led practice in Lytham. After 16 years working for other people, a life encounter gave me the harsh reminder that life is too short. It was at this stage in my career, I decided to open a glasses shop of my own, My Glasses Shop.”

Hutchinson has designed and curated the store with a unique personality and individual style – the furniture is particularly fun, as are the art objects. She claims that she started out without any particular style of store in mind, and that it grew as she developed it. ” We dived in head first without any concept in mind. What I do know is that I wanted a store that was approachable and that EVERYBODY, no matter what their budget, prescription or style, felt comfortable enough with that they could walk in and feel welcomed wholeheartedly.” Above: the interior features a huge African metal giraffe by Pangea Sculptures

Baloo, the 5 year old Pomapoo “on staff” at My Glasses Shop

The store’s bold colours on white walls and simple white display areas with straight lines and flat uncluttered surfaces where the frame designs are out on show, keep the emphasis on the individuality of style and design details of the frames – with a nod to the artist Mondrian. “Following a trip to Amsterdam and Berlin, we settled on a casual, welcoming art space where frames would be the art that we showcased! A love of all things Bauhaus and De Stijl became a reality in the store!”

theo frames are exhibited with “theo” art works on the walls – alongside pieces of furniture which add bright colours to the space

The style of the interior and furniture derives from the 1930’s. “It is still very much relevant today and lends itself to presenting our products in a clear and simple way without a sterile or overly clinical atmosphere,” Emma explains. “I craved the Belgian brand theo from opening, and with their new POP ART collection by Tim Van Steenbergen and theo designer Serge Bracké, I found inspiration in Roy Lichtenstein!”

Choosing the collections based on customer demographics, the shop currently offers a mix of optical frames and sunglasses reflecting current trends and looks…by theo, Zegna, BOZ, Nike and Struktur Eyewear, to name a few. “I don’t intend for us to educate anyone on what they should and shouldn’t wear.  I am also not precious about licensed or branded products as opposed to niche artisan frames, either. If it fits well, the client feels good about themselves and looks fabulous, then I am happy.  If I like a frame or brand, me and my team (myself, my life partner and brother) will showcase it and get behind it fully.  With this in mind we only buy a collection in depth and run with it.  I’ve found if you are confident enough to have a broad representation of the products in the range and actively promote it, it works!”

“We do not require a frame range to be a certain price point before considering it. We love to sell to lovely, gracious people therefore I refuse to oversell on lenses and all our dispenses are prescription appropriate.  I opt not to upsell with open-ended questions to inflate dispenses, but to offer the best to the customer, at an ethical price and this has led to a loyal client base, who continue to return for multiple pairs building their eyewear wardrobe, and supporting me on my adventure! “

The store attracts a clientele made up of “all types of wonderful people from all walks of life”. “Some are well known,” Emma says. “Along with several influencers, our dispenses have been seen on the BAFTA’s red carpet and in the Royal Box at WImbledon.  We can also throw in a couple of indie rock god’s for good measure – but we won’t say too much!”

Asked about the photos of the Pomapoo we spotted on Instagram, Emma said the store welcomes pets, any time! “Due to the fact we do not refract or offer clinical services, we have an open door policy. All are welcome including our four legged patrons! We also have Baloo, our 5 year old Pomapoo on staff to offer a helping paw during busy periods.”

My Glasses Shop, 10 Tithebarn Street, Poulton-le-Fylde, FY6 7BX Find out more at www.myglassesshop.co.uk

View from an expert: Kayla Heersink shares favourite moments in NYC

Kayla Heersink, the optician and eyewear aficionado behind the @optical_style account on Instagram – a curated page featuring all things creative in eyewear, visited New York City in March for Vision Expo East and LOFT NYC. During the weekend, she shared with us some personal insights and favourite discoveries among the brands from North America exhibiting at the events. Eyestylist.com presents a spectacular two-part editorial in collaboration with Kayla, with some exciting insights on what she found during her appointments in the city.  Above: Kayla wears PRESS Eyewear’s Super Bass sunglasses.

1. What was your favourite event/studio visit or showroom viewing this year in NYC?
The CFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative event is really special. In honor of Pride Month, seven CFDA eyewear brands  united to launch the 3rd annual edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative. The designers of Blake Kuwahara Eyewear, Christian Roth Eyewear, l.a.Eyeworks, PRESS, Barton Perreira, Selima Optique, and KREWE, will each offer a limited edition sunglass design, with a portion of proceeds collectively benefiting Bring Change to Mind.

edCFDA Collective – PRIDE Limited Edition sunglasses for 2024

Established in 2022, the edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative is an annual charitable venture driven by eyewear designers of the CFDA to target and highlight specific needs within the broad spectrum of the LGBTQ+ and gender non-conforming community. With donations to LGBTQ+ causes totaling more than $100,000 in its first two years, an expansion from five to seven designers this season bodes well for a record-breaking year in 2024. “While it is the eyewear designers, with the CFDA’s support, who have piloted this outstanding effort, it is also a testament to the optical community – retailers and customers alike – who have embraced the importance of visibility for these causes,” notes Gai Gherardi, co-founder/designer of l.a.Eyeworks.

Proceeds from sales of the 2024 edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative will benefit Bring Change to Mind (BC2M) www.bringchange2mind.org, an organization dedicated to ending stigma and discrimination surrounding mental health.

VADA’s colour palette is fresh, youthful and often a little daring

2. At the shows, which were the iconic US brands you loved again for 2024 – and why?
I’m still obsessed with Vada. Designer and creative director Katie Caplener’s work draws from a deep well of ranging references, from ancient art to modern dance, neoclassicism to New Wave, and the obscurest of corners that exist in between. The VADA eyewear line that emerged from Katie’s fine jewelry background strives to create quality pieces, lasting outside of trends. VADA creates heirloom pieces to be cherished across generations.
In my opinion, this small batch eyewear brand has the best photos and storytelling. This year it’s all about Camp Vada, where you can see the influence of Katie’s southern roots. Inspired by action and adventure, Camp VADA builds its fire with an exploration of masculine energies for Collection 5. It’s little yin, big YANG, with three new styles and eight new high-octane colorways. Pitch a tent. Run a trotline. Get high on an Ozark mountain. Cannonball off the boat dock: Camp VADA is calling. A fitted ringer tee and a cigarette behind the bunkhouse. A psychotic sack race toward summertime. An acid-blotted biscuit in the duck blind. Color names like swamp, trout, and pearl snap, are complimented by “I pulled a fish from my ice hole” bumper stickers, and old school Vada trucker hat merch. Vada is somehow always simultaneously fresh and nostalgic at the same time. Like your cool older cousin, Vada knows what’s hot before you do.

VADA Eyewear: “VADA creates heirloom pieces to be cherished across generations….”

Vada has also recently released two special collaboration pieces with singer Leon Bridges. Channeling Bobby Womack, funkadelic hues, and best-dressed relative nostalgia, EARTHA and LEON are handmade in Japan with 8mm custom acetate and feature 18K gold-plated hardware. These frames feature a custom paisley-patterned core wire exclusive to this collaboration that is extraordinary. It was inspired by a scarf worn by Leon’s grandmother, Eartha.

Leon Bridges + VADA

3. Which are the most interesting emerging home-grown labels you are going to keep your eye on?
I’m really excited about the relaunch of American Optical. It is America’s oldest eyewear company, started in 1833. AO frames are being made in the same factory as State Optical, in Chicago Illinois. American Optical is bringing back the Saratoga, made famous by JFK, in addition to many of their other recognizable classics.

American Optical: an iconic US eyewear brand

The optical nerd in me got really amped seeing frames with 7 barrel hinges. The goal has been not only to bring eyewear manufacturing back to the US, but also to revive the lost vocation of the American Eyewear Artisan. YESSS!! The AO and STATE craftspeople undergo over six months of training before earning that title, working across all 75 steps of the proprietary AO and STATE manufacturing process. The pride that these 65 elite craftspeople exude can be felt in every frame.

Look out for Part 2 of this feature, which is packed with great recommendations – from @opticali_style – coming up soon! Follow @eyestylistmagazine@opticali_style on Instagram for more information about the companies that Kayla visited.

Lazare Studio: resurrected classics

The French optician turned eyewear designer Alexandre Caton has created an eyewear collection that continues to stand out from the crowd

An extraordinary depth of research and inspired product development, an understanding of the finest eyewear – old and new, and a fascination with the spectacle-making traditions of Japan….Alexandre Caton has applied his knowledge and passion for eyewear design, and his experience as an optician, producing each frame and sunglass design in the Lazare Studio collection as an expression of past classics refreshed “with a contemporary touch”; after just four years, this collection is available in some of the world’s finest fashion stores such as Dover Street Market, and eyewear stores of the highest repute. Above: detail of Nada by Lazare Studio, one of the latest sunglass styles to be added into the collection

Nada by Lazare Studio, a 1980s inspired sunglass style

As the designer explains, each frame is the result of two worlds coming together: on the one hand, the Japanese element and the signature parts made out of materials which have been sourced from leading Japanese manufacturers, and on the other, the savoir-faire of the French artisans of the Jura, where craftsmen and women are trained in long-established skills and new cutting-edge technology. Added to this is a careful “physiological design approach” devised by Caton with focus on balanced lines and delicate weight distribution of the product, always adapted for the ideal comfort of the frame.

Model Rothstein by Lazare Studio; a finely crafted structure with elegant detailing

Inspired by the classic shapes of the 1970s, the new model Rothstein illustrates the use of 6mm milled Japanese acetate for the frame front, and details typical of the collection: the signature rivets, metal cores and refined hinge design.

Lazare Studio has committed to an environmental and socially responsible approach to production by choosing high-end suppliers working with care and conscience and selecting long-lasting and sustainable materials. The brand’s ultimate goal is to provide “timeless eyewear, built to last”. Find our more about the frames at www.lazare.studio

Loft NYC 2024

Eyewear presentations, parties and press events…the 2024 edition of LOFT drew in a crowd that was bigger than ever ; the event offered a diverse showcase of independent brands from around the world, an energetic atmosphere for networking and the annual launch of the CFDA eyewear designers’ 2024 Pride Collection – all taking place at the well-known Hudson Mercantile by Manhattan’s Hudson Yards – New York City.  

The 2024 Edition of Loft NYC, the leading independent eyewear show in the Americas, took place from Thursday 14th March to Sunday 17th March, with brands exhibiting over two floors. New additions at the event this year included l.a.Eyeworks, Silhouette, CAZAL and FOLC Eyewear.

On the first day of the event, the designers Blake Kuwahara (Blake Kuwahara Eyewear), Christian Roth (Christian Roth Eyewear), Gai Gherardi & Barbara McReynolds (l.a.Eyeworks), Jeff Press (PRESS), Patty Perreira (Barton Perreira), Selima Salaun (Selima Optique) and Stirling Barrett (KREWE), gathered to show their limited edition sunglass designs as part of the edCFDA Pride Eyewear Initiative. They announced that this year, a portion of proceeds will collectively benefit Bring Change to Mind, an organization dedicated to ending stigma and discrimination surrounding mental health. Above: the CFDA eyewear designers gathered for a press event on the Thursday afternoon of LOFT, NYC – the busy event attracted designers, opticians, buyers and members of the industry and the press

l.a.Eyeworks was one of the new additions at LOFT 2024

LOFT 2024 saw multiple launches by the independent designers exhibiting, including a new collaboration line from the British brand Kirk & Kirk with Jason Bell – former professional footballer, and Nicholas Pinnock, the actor/producer; the acid house music inspired SS24 series at VAVA – in neon colours – several lines from theo including the eye-popping Mosaic styles, and ROLF’s exceedingly popular “made in Austria” Wire Collection – with models for adults and children – all produced in plant-based materials.  FOLC Eyewear from Barcelona had some eye-catching acetate sunglasses with stunning sculptural volumes.

Jason Kirk introducing the new designs by his British label, Kirk and Kirk

SALT. Optics introduced several new series including a collaboration collection with Joshua Sirlin, the Creative Director of the American Black Bear Brand. There were also new collections from RES/REI, Blake Kuwahara, Kuboraum, TAVAT, Bevel, who were celebrating their 25th anniversary, RAPP Eyewear, HENAU and more – for opticians and buyers to discover first hand.

SALT. Optics from California

Founder of LOFT, Richard Mewha has confirmed that LOFT will take place in New York City in 2025, with dates and a new even bigger venue to be confirmed soon. For more information visit https://lofteyewearshow.com

All images provided courtesy of LOFT Eyewear Show