Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 22nd June 2016

Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

What goes on beneath beautiful designer fashion creations is sometimes even a more sensual, fascinating harmony of sumptuous materials and colours. The Victoria & Albert Museum in London explores the personal, fashionable journey of underwear’s roles in Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear.

Installation view from Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear
Installation view from Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

More than two hundred examples of underwear for men and women are featured – from the homemade to the fabulously luxurious. On display are corsets (top image), hosiery, lingerie and nightwear, plus contextual fashion plates, photographs, advertisements and packaging.

Comfort at home: Loungewear
Comfort at home: Loungewear

Rare 18th Century  hooped petticoats are also featured alongside crinolines and bustles. Long cotton drawers worn by Queen Victoria’s mother; floral embroidered stockings worn by Queen Alexandra, wife of King Edward VII; and Schiaparelli nylon stockings from 1953 emphasise the practical, as well as the alluring. Designer pieces by Rigby and Peller, La Perla, Stella McCartney and Paul Smith are also highlighted. The exhibition also demonstrates how underclothes and nightclothes morphed into loungewear, with the continuing desire for comfort at home, and a blurring of the line between underwear and outerwear, public and private.

Cage Crinoline The Princess Louise Jupon patent 1871
Cage Crinoline The Princess Louise Jupon patent 1871

Edwina Ehrman, Curator of Textiles and Fashion at the V&A curated Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. The intriguing presentation reveals how underwear can be created to transform or provoke, and it is impressive. The exhibition, sponsored by Agent Provocateur and Revlon, continues through 12 March 2017. www.vam.ac.uk/undressed JG

Photos: All images courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum

| Eyestylist 16th June 2016

Ceremony Capsule Collection by Kuboraum Berlin

I have only twice had the chance to view the Kuboraum collection – once when they launched back in 2012, and once briefly this February at the Milan eyewear fair, by invitation. Dark and mystical, their handmade artisan ‘masks’ – like wearable works of art – have stirred up amazement and excitement in optics and fashion, and continue to do so. Highlights have included frames produced from blow-torched acetate, creating scorched surfaces which are then embellished in silver and 18k or 24k gold chains (mask B2).

Ceremony Capsule by Kuboraum
Ceremony Capsule by Kuboraum

The Ceremony Capsule Collection is a new chapter, honing in on an elegant hand-painting of the frames with exotic florals by designer Livio Graziottin. The collection, described as an expression of “decadent ceremonial grandeur” contains eight sun masks with different motifs of bright blossoms, hibiscus, palm fronds and rose petals, and, like a painting or piece of art, each model, with its striking painted appearance, is signed by the designer.

It’s a different, very intimate mood from the previous collections (gold and silver work) transforming the solid, bulky structure of the mask, with a surprisingly gentle mood, bringing to our attention the dedication and workmanship of the painter – in every delicate brushstroke and nuance of colour of the tiny details of petals and leaves.

Based in Berlin and handmade in Italy, Kuboraum frames are produced by the artist/designer Livio Graziottin and anthropologist, and marketing/communications director, Sergio Eusebi. The Ceremony Capsule was first shown at the Milan eyewear fair (Mido) in Spring 2016. More information is available at www.kuboraum.com CN

| Eyestylist 15th June 2016

Stunning styles for les petites faces

Finding the perfect frame fit – like the perfect shoe – needn’t be a challenge…if you know where to look! Eyewear creators enhance their collections with beautiful frames that compliment smaller faces – with original and creative designs; contemporary materials; and extraordinary colours. Among our favourite selections is Mlle+41 (above) –  an innovative design by theo in Belgium. The dramatic shape gives the appearance of a larger frame, but is scaled to fit and flatter smaller faces, and the distinctive finish is a mix of shiny and brushed acetate. www.theo.be

Blakey by l.a. Eyeworks
Blakey by l.a. Eyeworks

Bright and cheerful is Blakey in HD acetate by l.a. Eyeworks in a zingy colour christened Red Hen. The frame is created with a 44mm eye size – but radiates a big presence. The neatly tailored edges and end-tip details add to the luminosity of the design. www.laeyeworks.com

Tantot by Lafont Paris
Tantot by Lafont Paris

Shimmering turquoise acetate highlights Tantot by Lafont Paris. The uncluttered, contemporary shape is comfortable and lightweight, and an excellent silhouette for smaller faces. Check out more designs at www.lafont.com

D14 by Tom Stevens Stevens Eyewear
D14 by Tom Stevens Stevens Eyewear

Stainless steel and Polyamide unite in a 3D laser design – D14 – by Tom Stevens at Stevens Eyewear in The Netherlands. The sleek frame in a smart duo of navy blue and a matt grey trim is crafted in the Tom Stevens atelier, where traditional spectacle making combines with the latest technology. www.stevenseyewear.com

PMO35 by J.F. Rey
PMO35 by J.F. Rey

This glamorous frame – PMO35 by J.F. Rey – is especially adapted for women with small faces. Animal print acetate is teamed with a stainless steel brow trim in gold and bronze, and an echo of Art Deco. Feminine and chic! www.jfrey.fr JG

| Eyestylist 14th June 2016

theo Games

In readiness for Rio 2016, a treat is in store from the Belgian creators theo: the Games collection comprises luxury designs made of gold or palladium with a superb, unusual finish – an eye-catching combination of matte and shiny surfaces.

theo eyewear - medal
theo eyewear – model Medal

The overall focus is on the round shape, with five slightly different circular versions – some rounder than others – referencing the iconic Olympic rings and the sought after medals as well as founder Wim Somer’s love of the classical round spectacle shape – the one he is always seen in himself.

Luxury is the keynote in this series, with palladium models in 3 μm palladium, and golden models made of 3 μm palladium with a 4 μm layer of gold. The golden frames have a hallmark on the temple, certifying the genuine 24 carat gold.

And theo’s thought of everything: for those who require a brightly coloured every day style, the same models are available in titanium in bright sparkling single colours – from fluo red to electric blue and named Europe, Africa, Asia, Oceania and America. Ideal for all prescriptions! For more information on this new line, visit www.theo.be CN

 

| Eyestylist 10th June 2016

Trendwatch: moving forward…

No longer are there one or two key sunglass trends in a season. This year, the choice in shapes, dimensions and colour combinations by independent designers extends down a very creative path. The much loved classic round designs have been joined by squares, octagons, multi-sided lenses and slightly rarer triangular eye shapes, as illustrated in Smoke & Mirrors Sodapop sunglasses (5) where a small modified triangle is superimposed on a pearlescent white “main” frame. www.smokexmirrors.com

Hybrid designs – two shapes in one – are also a good example of what’s new and trending.

Peter & May
Peter & May Walk – S#32 – Cloud Cuckoo Land

The innovative French label Peter & May Walk have created some wonderful catwalk designs with this concept in mind – model Cloud Cuckoo Land is a favourite with its round outer eye shape in a two-tone colour display and cute, flirtatious cat eye lens within. More details at : www.peterandmaywalk.com

Fakoshima 08/02/06 multicolour with crystal
Fakoshima 08/02/06 – multicolour with crystal

Fakoshima, the conceptual Russian brand best known for its eye-popping sunglasses, has launched Struktur, a Bauhaus inspired collection of optical frames with sharp lines, subdued colours, and an architectural approach to the shapes and their defining details. Style 08/02/06 mixes the form of a cat eye with a flat top: it’s a gutsy design that converts the more feminine upswept shaping into a design that provides a unique statement for both men and women. www.fakoshima.com CN