Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 27th June 2016

John Robshaw, NYC

New York based textile designer John Robshaw on travel, textile design and a sunglasses collaboration with Mondelliani

“I am travelling regularly in India, Asia and now Africa and South America,” explains John Robshaw, the textile designer who has linked up in collaboration with Mondelliani in Rome, the independent label co-founded by Federico Mondello. “I met Federico through a mutual friend who had given me a pair of Mondelliani sunglasses. We started to think about a collection that experimented with my textile designs. A meeting in Rome, one in NYC, and we had come up with these incredible sunglass designs. It was interesting and fun. I hadn’t imagined there were so many things to know about eyewear, it is a fascinating world.”

Model Tambu
Model Tabu

“When you look at my textiles it is as if you have been on a world tour alongside me.” John Robshaw

Caption
Robshaw x Mondelliani style – photographed in Rajastan

Available at www.johnrobshaw.com, sunglass design has been a new departure for the John Robshaw Textiles emporium which specialises in bedding, wardrobe, tabletop, curtains and travel accessories. The frames have unique decorations and all the benefits of the quality artisan finish of a Mondelliani design. The frame shape Sanganer, one of the first styles created in the collection is inspired by an old Indian frame, recovered by John during one of his trips in Asia.

The John Robshaw brand continues to expand through new collaborative projects, although Robshaw’s passion for the world keeps him on the road as much as possible. “By working abroad I became a minor character in the lives of the people I work with, and get inspired by what I see and do there. I go to their weddings, celebrate their festivals, get sick with them. I develop relationships with the people who are teaching me.” For more information about John Robshaw and Mondelliani, Rome, visit www.mondelliani.it / www.johnrobshaw.com/fashion/sunglasses.html CN

| Eyestylist 24th June 2016

Style and flair: optical designs for women

The latest optical creations by international designers achieve a desirable harmony of classy shapes, unique colourations, and varied materials. Whether your preferences are for retro or super modern shapes, bright colours or subtle shades, there is great variety with welcoming appeal for every type of lifestyle: professional, sport life and casual wear.

Australian Colin Redmond is a former automobile designer, and when he sketched the Shear Scallop frames (Kaspi above from the collection), he said: “I really wanted to create something polar opposite to contemporary popular trends, something fun and fresh. I needed inspiration from somewhere unique, and used my two year-old son’s crayon scribbles, tracing over his ‘art’. To recognise his contribution, I named the frame after him – Kaspi – For Caspian.” Intriguing angles and curves highlight the interesting shape, and the colours are optimistic, confident and curious. Handcrafted in France. www.niloca.com

Fatima ic! berlin
Fatima ic! berlin

ic! berlin’s Crew Collection is a splendid assortment of designs reflecting the interests and passions of the company’s “crew” (employees). Fatima wears Fatima R – her optical choice in chic pewter. The ic! berlin sales rep loves music by Adele, boxing and confesses that her guilty pleasure is Tiramisu. See all the new shapes and colours from The Crew Collection at www.ic-berlin.de

Shaba by L.G.R
Shaba by L.G.R

Refined cat-eye shapes are a continuing favourite with women, and among the most enchanting is Shaba by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone at L.G.R. The elegant silhouette with its heightened cat-eye detail is chic and contemporary. Shaba and all L.G.R eyewear is masterfully handcrafted in Italy. www.lgrworld.com

Cosmo 19 by Benner Eyewear
Cosmo 19 by Benner Eyewear

German designer Daniel Benner enjoys combining aspects of vintage with modern touches. Cosmo 19 unites classic design with a difference – the panto lens is playfully updated with “open” parts for an airy shape. Temple detail is artfully expressed and duo-colours in black and red stainless steel are striking elements of this design.www.benner-eyewear.com

Orchidea
Orchidea

Contrasting colour combinations emphasise the beauty of Orchidea from the Flowers Collection by Res/Rei. Multi-colourations on the top part of the frame further enhance the handcrafted Italian design by Oliviero Zanon. More on the beautiful Flower Collection at www.resrei.com

V384 by Vera Wang
V384 by Vera Wang

Vera Wang’s impeccable taste and her modern approach to fashion translate effortlessly into her latest optical designs. V384 features a sensual, yet subtle cat-eye shape, and the colours are beautiful – shown in Midnight with mixed colour temples, and additional colours include Amethyst, black and brown. www.kenmarkoptical.com JG

 

 

| Eyestylist 22nd June 2016

Limited Edition Pearson by Blackfin

Produced for the exclusive Yacht Club in Capri, Italy, the dapper limited Edition Pearson (BF730) by Blackfin delivers all the attributes of a hand-finished technical titanium frame in an exciting new colour way: an exterior in opaque charcoal grey and interior in ‘Serendipity’ blue, the official colour of the anchor in the Yacht Club’s logo.

Created ahead of the Rolex Capri International Regatta last month in a run of just 50 styles, each of the styles was customised with the wording, “Yacht Club Capri 2016”. Blackfin frames are exclusively produced in Agordino, Belluno, Italy, in line with a specific ethos referred to as “neomadeinitaly” – a term that is designed to underline authenticity, Italian provenance and commitment to its local team and environment.   www.blackfin.eu CN

| Eyestylist 22nd June 2016

Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

What goes on beneath beautiful designer fashion creations is sometimes even a more sensual, fascinating harmony of sumptuous materials and colours. The Victoria & Albert Museum in London explores the personal, fashionable journey of underwear’s roles in Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear.

Installation view from Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear
Installation view from Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

More than two hundred examples of underwear for men and women are featured – from the homemade to the fabulously luxurious. On display are corsets (top image), hosiery, lingerie and nightwear, plus contextual fashion plates, photographs, advertisements and packaging.

Comfort at home: Loungewear
Comfort at home: Loungewear

Rare 18th Century  hooped petticoats are also featured alongside crinolines and bustles. Long cotton drawers worn by Queen Victoria’s mother; floral embroidered stockings worn by Queen Alexandra, wife of King Edward VII; and Schiaparelli nylon stockings from 1953 emphasise the practical, as well as the alluring. Designer pieces by Rigby and Peller, La Perla, Stella McCartney and Paul Smith are also highlighted. The exhibition also demonstrates how underclothes and nightclothes morphed into loungewear, with the continuing desire for comfort at home, and a blurring of the line between underwear and outerwear, public and private.

Cage Crinoline The Princess Louise Jupon patent 1871
Cage Crinoline The Princess Louise Jupon patent 1871

Edwina Ehrman, Curator of Textiles and Fashion at the V&A curated Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. The intriguing presentation reveals how underwear can be created to transform or provoke, and it is impressive. The exhibition, sponsored by Agent Provocateur and Revlon, continues through 12 March 2017. www.vam.ac.uk/undressed JG

Photos: All images courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum

| Eyestylist 16th June 2016

Ceremony Capsule Collection by Kuboraum Berlin

I have only twice had the chance to view the Kuboraum collection – once when they launched back in 2012, and once briefly this February at the Milan eyewear fair, by invitation. Dark and mystical, their handmade artisan ‘masks’ – like wearable works of art – have stirred up amazement and excitement in optics and fashion, and continue to do so. Highlights have included frames produced from blow-torched acetate, creating scorched surfaces which are then embellished in silver and 18k or 24k gold chains (mask B2).

Ceremony Capsule by Kuboraum
Ceremony Capsule by Kuboraum

The Ceremony Capsule Collection is a new chapter, honing in on an elegant hand-painting of the frames with exotic florals by designer Livio Graziottin. The collection, described as an expression of “decadent ceremonial grandeur” contains eight sun masks with different motifs of bright blossoms, hibiscus, palm fronds and rose petals, and, like a painting or piece of art, each model, with its striking painted appearance, is signed by the designer.

It’s a different, very intimate mood from the previous collections (gold and silver work) transforming the solid, bulky structure of the mask, with a surprisingly gentle mood, bringing to our attention the dedication and workmanship of the painter – in every delicate brushstroke and nuance of colour of the tiny details of petals and leaves.

Based in Berlin and handmade in Italy, Kuboraum frames are produced by the artist/designer Livio Graziottin and anthropologist, and marketing/communications director, Sergio Eusebi. The Ceremony Capsule was first shown at the Milan eyewear fair (Mido) in Spring 2016. More information is available at www.kuboraum.com CN