Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 17th April 2013

Reiz Germany, Lovely Nature

Pure design with a hint of the classical

17th April 2013 Handmade is a word that is much used today in eyewear; at Eyestylist we see it as part of our journey to explore the most authentic concepts in handcrafting, including taking a look at some of the smallest trendsetting labels. Our detailed research into handmade designs began in 2011, but it is an area we are hugely interested in for the future.

Here is one small but exciting label from Germany that we haven’t covered for some time. REIZ frames were first being created in the 90s and I got to know them over time. Their Lovely Nature collection is their interpretation of handmade glasses for 2013.

Masters in acetate, the frames in this collection – 10 models in 5 colours each – are made from an eco-friendly material with a similar transparency to acetate, produced following a new formula, that enables production without using chemicals such as phthalate – it’s a material that is both biodegradable and recyclable.

REIZ Lovely Nature
REIZ Lovely Nature

The Lovely Nature series pays homage to the traditional rectangular eye shape, chosen for its pure form, and combined with subtle colours that do not detract from the shape – but you will also find more curvaceous shapes and also the round style above, model Fichte. REIZ is known for the silky finish of its acetates (something that identifies their craftsmanship and small production) and the frames in the new eco material have a nice lightness and gentle fine lines – I observed this series in January this year in Munich with Thomas Hobmaier (the Marketing/Sales Director at REIZ) and found them very beautiful.

Created in Germany in 1996, REIZ is led by Jochen Gutbrod and Franz Dieter Reutter. The style of the glasses is always consistent to the label’s desire to produce beautiful design of an exceptional quality which combines handmade elements and high-tech German production technology.

Lovely Nature by REIZ - Kiefer
REIZ Lovely Nature – Kiefer (dark green)

 

The new images of the frames pictured here show some of the subtleties that I appreciated when I saw the frames and tried them on, whilst also making reference to the past and classical aesthetics. Lovingly created, and lovely indeed. www.reiz.net CN

| Eyestylist 15th April 2013

Acetate Masterpieces

Beautiful Acetate Colourations

15th April 2013 Some of the artistic effects available on acetate never cease to amaze. This season, there are several beautiful renditions that express the beauty and creative possibilities of working with this versatile eyewear material. Vera Wang, acclaimed for her refined clothing creations, brings those same qualities to elegant sunglasses in distinctive shapes, combining a contemporary mood with a subtle retro spirit (above: Asuki, Emi and Aya). The marble colourations are soft  and luxurious – a chic complement to spring/summer fashions. www.kenmarkoptical.com

 

Agrippina - by Oliviero Zanon for Res Rei
Agrippina – by Oliviero Zanon for Res/Rei

Designer Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei loves acetate – in fact, one of his favourite activities is to discover old acetate sheets that he can magically transform into gorgeous sunglasses. In Latin, Res Rei means “the thing”, and these beautiful frames really are ‘the thing’ in style and eyewear expression. Agrippina (above) with its alluring shape, is lovingly created by hand, and just one of several exciting new creations by the Italian designer. www.resrei.com JG

| Eyestylist 12th April 2013

The Götti Story

Exhibition in Lucerne to Mark 20th Anniversary

12th April 2013 The design history of Götti Switzerland was celebrated with an exhibition in the historic Rüttimann House, the same premises where Sven Götti created his first eyeglasses. As you enter this beautiful building, the stage is set with an amazing chandelier fitted with 541 pairs of sunglasses from previous collections. A cross section of the past two decades of the Swiss company sheds light on the manufacturing of the frames, the design process, and the marketing behind the products. The first Götti collection stylistically transports visitors to another era, however, the signature and design philosophy of Sven Götti is already recognizable. Prototypes, unrealized shape experiments, blanks and stamping tools are also on display.

Stunning chandelier with 541 pairs of Götti sunglasses
Stunning chandelier with 541 pairs of Götti sunglasses

The origins of the eyewear brand goes back to 1993, when Sven Götti and Urs Niederer opened the optics shop, Götti+Niederer, in the elegant Rüttimann House in Lucerne’s Old City. Sven Götti established his own eyewear collection the following year, and now Götti Switzerland has a presence in over thirty countries. A success story to celebrate! The exhibition can be visited in Lucerne until 20th April at Götti+Niederer Mühlenplatz 1 Lucerne. The Götti exhibition will then travel to other Swiss and German cities later in the year. www.gotti.ch JG

 

| Eyestylist 10th April 2013

Bespoke at Oliver Goldsmith

A unique service for handcrafted eyewear

10th April 2013 Last month we were back at Oliver Goldsmith HQ in London, a visit that allowed us a chance to become more acquainted with the extraordinary OG archive and its rows of iconic designs. We also learnt about their bespoke service and how you can have a frame inspired by the vintage archive made especially for you. This is a unique experience  in bespoke creations, and a chance to have your own little piece of eyewear history. “You find it with shoes, you find it with bags, but you have to dig deep to find a bespoke service in eyewear where you can have a frame handmade to your chosen design and sizing,” explained Zoe Cosby as we pulled open drawer upon drawer of inspiring Oliver Goldsmith designs from the past. “The bespoke frames are made in the last surviving British eyewear factory individually and by hand, it’s a painstaking process with a result that is comparable to the finest bespoke products available.”

Oliver Goldsmith archive, OG store London
Oliver Goldsmith archive, OG store London

If you don’t live in London or the UK and can’t get to the Oliver Goldsmith store itself, there are now over 10 stores around the world that can measure and order a bespoke handcrafted Oliver Goldsmith acetate style for you. They include LA’s famous Gogosha Optique – www.gogosha.com and the very unique Eyesite  boutique in Philadelphia – http://eyesite-phila.com/. Find the OG Store at: www.olivergoldsmith.com/shop.aspx

Photography by Margarida Viegas exclusively for Eyestylist.com CN

| Eyestylist 8th April 2013

Christian Roth and Eric Domège

A new story, rooted in the past, at Christian Roth Eyewear

8th April 2013 I first started following Christian Roth when I got my first job in optical publishing back in 1999. In the ’80s and ’90s, this independent label had already played an impressive role in establishing sunglasses as a key accessory in the fashion arena, and their glamorous shades were worn by everyone who was anyone in fashion and music…memorably, because of the extraordinary images that ensued, Kate Moss, Agyness Dean, Lenny Kravitz, and many, many more.

Series A, Optical Affairs Christian Roth / circa 19??
PAST: Series A, Christian Roth / 1980s

Today Roth and Domège have new plans, both in eyewear and beyond, with new capsule collections including optical frames and sunglasses, and other Christian Roth accessories that they will unveil in 2014/15 via the website. As part of our special Vintage Edition, we asked them, in an exclusive interview, about their new project, the launch of their e-commerce destination and what the future holds for this iconic name in sunglass fashion.

PAST: Optical Affairs / Christian Roth, the early years
PAST: Optical Affairs / Christian Roth, the early years – signed by Warhol

“Our first overnight success was with Series A (above), our rimless frame in acetate and metal, designed so you could customise the lens shape with the colour of the frame. It was something very different back then, so that it became an overnight success and went straight on the cover of WWD. At that time, we were seeing our frames on all kinds of influential people from different walks of life, from Andy Warhol to Diana Ross, but it wasn’t endorsement, they were genuinely buying our frames and wanting to wear them because they loved them. It was incredible. It is our privilege to have lived in NYC in that period when celebrity culture was not such an issue.

“In the early 90s we joined the CFDA, thanks to Anna Wintour and Candy Pratts Price (the US Vogue team) who wanted the best eyewear designers on board as part of the Association; that was another important moment. We were the first to be a part of it, we were there at the right time!  And it offered so much – we were given the support of Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs as our ‘godfathers’. We began to work with these very big designers. We had a very inspiring working relationship with Karl Lagerfeld for the runway shows and collaborations with the most prolific and talented designers of our times continued for decades. We had our own studio in New York and we started to run private views of our collections. It was in a very cool place next door to a famous agency where we met a very young Claudia Schiffer.

Kaleidoscopic Cool by Christian Roth
PRESENT: From the new Christian Roth BLOCK-ON Capsule 2013

“Today we have completely redefined the Christian Roth concept, our image, and collections – placing the spotlight on the best of “Christian Roth”. We have created a whole new life for the brand adding fun, excitement and the unexpected for eyewear aficionados. Our goal is to now connect through our crisp, conceptual and modern e-commerce destination – www.christian-roth.com –  with our many visionary fans from all over the world, and to reach more seekers of beautiful and unique eyewear. It is a very different, very personal site, where you can get behind the scenes.

“In 2013, the new frames will be availably via the site and through a few ambassador optical stores. Our first Block-On capsule collection includes Italian acetates and Japanese titanium. It is all about craftsmanship, high-quality and mixing geometric, precise, graphic and modern elements. We have worked in a very detailed way with special touches, mixing colour and chic transparent tones. Every frame is crafted by artisans to have its own identity and uniqueness, and we will renew our capsule every few months with new additions, another unusual concept in eyewear that we feel will be exciting for our online customers. On the site, we have added a small shopping area for rare vintage designs, both our own and others; it is something fun, for collectors and people who love the history of frames. The site also shows our support for OrphanAid Africa, something which touches our hearts.

“For the future we want Christian Roth to grow into a one-of-a-kind independent accessory brand with new categories which we will launch in 2014/15. We believe this is really something that will complement our frames and the spirit of the brand and appeal to the luxury market’s expectations. We have a great devotion to eyewear, and it is exciting for us to develop a new choice of accessories that will make sense for Christian Roth Eyewear”. CN

www.christian-roth.com