Eyestylist

Eyestylist meets Neil Handley

25th November 2011 If you are an eyewear devotee and curious about social history, The British Optical Association Museum in London is the place to visit.  A personal tour by Curator Neil Handley adds richness and revelations to the experience. Handley is the author of the highly acclaimed book Cult Eyewear, an intriguing perspective on the iconic brands who redefined eyewear (image above, l.a. eyeworks “The Beat” 1980.) Fate has had a strong hand in Handley’s career – as an art historian with an Oxford degree, he took a temporary position with The College of Optometrists. “It was to be for twelve months,” recalls Handley, “and now it is thirteen years! I wasn’t in the eyewear field, so this has been amazing. The Museum was founded in 1901 – so it is 110 years old.  I feel that I am the temporary custodian of the collection, and it’s my job to keep it going, and lay the seeds for the future. The Museum is a cultural home for eyewear to which people can gravitate. We have fashion, art and design students who visit, and we encourage them to get involved. In 1997, we moved to this great building on Craven Street, an historic area in the heart of Charing Cross. Benjamin Franklin lived just a few doors away.

“Working on the book required a lot of research with many discoveries. The first spectacles were not worn on the face, they were held in the hand, and designed to wear with a wig, the fashion of the time. Your character is brought out with what is on your nose. We found one box marked ‘junk’, and inside were the most incredible items – original, vintage frames and much more. Eyewear started as a craft, and the manufacturing techniques remain largely unchanged. The future lies in continuing good craftsmanship and quality.

“Britain is living up to its design standards today, but the manufacturing is being done elsewhere, as I’ve noted in the book. I hope it’s an eye opener! However, things come in waves, and there are high and low points in every story. There is always space for mavericks, but there are also lessons of history. There is no guarantee that certain companies will be around in two or three years; an awareness is needed to get through the hard times.” (Oliver Goldsmith image above: The College of Optometrists/Elliot Franks-Courtesy of Oliver Goldsmith).

Handley clearly enjoyed his research for Cult Eyewear. “You should have seen what was left out! Unfortunately, everything could not be included, but perhaps one day, there will be another book. The collections that we have here are certainly inspiring.”

With Handley’s meticulous eye for details and love of his subject matter, a sequel to Cult Eyewear is already eagerly anticipated. Published by Merrell www.merrellpublishers.com.

Museum visits by appointment only. Telephone +44 (0) 207 839 6000 www.college-optometrists.org/museum JG

Collegiate Chic from Leisure Society

23rd November 2011 California based Leisure Society endorses the enduring appeal of collegiate style with a collection of frames named after prestigious universities. One of my personal favourites is Cambridge (above), Shane Baum’s refined, preppy and superbly crafted frame in 100% titanium. The gold plates are available in 12k, 18k, or 24k, combined with Japanese cotton-base acetate temple tips – pure luxury! In addition, little details are precise with intricate multi-dimensional laser etching applied to the titanium and rim wire, with beautiful enamel insets. Twelve layer anti-reflective lenses, coated with Diamond Cast anti-scratch material, are state-of-the-art. Each frame is individually handmade and numbered in Japan by experienced artisanal craftsmen. www.leisure-society.com JG