Eyestylist

| Eyestylist May 3rd 2023

One to watch: Danielle Rattray, eyewear designer

Hailing from Northeast Scotland, eyewear designer Danielle Rattray is by all means one to watch. Seeking inspiration from her home country, a landscape bursting with culture, “colourful characters and great music”, in her words, Rattray creates strikingly bold-yet-refined frames worn by loyal patrons of her brand in London, Paris and soon…New York. Her style and energy is inspiring the youngest generations of fashion eyewear enthusiasts…. Eyestylist spoke to the Scottish designer…

Tell us a bit about yourself; how you grew up, what put you on the path you’re currently on…I come from the Northeast of Scotland, it’s an area full of colourful characters, great music, and lots of talented designers. I studied graphic design in Dundee and spent a lot of time in London, so it was an eclectic path full of inspirations.

How would you describe yourself? Committed.

What is your earliest memory of fashion? Fashion for me was always tied closely to music. Blondie, Patti Smith, Keith Richards, Vivienne Westwood. I always had a good understanding of colour and aesthetic; punk was a strong source of inspiration for me, it still is.

Teddy by Danielle Rattray

Have you always been a creative person? Yes, I think so. I was always drawn to colour, fabrics and aesthetics, as well as art and music.

What stands out to you most about the eyewear industry? That there is a place for everyone. You can be free to design in an understated way, or a really bold and outgoing way and people will support you and be open to your ideas. I love the pace of change and how new ideas emerge.

Lowe by Danielle Rattray

Does your culture and home country influence your work in any capacity? Definitely. Scotland is a small but strongly independent country. No nonsense and full of contrasts: gritty backstreets and noisy bars, but then spectacularly beautiful landscapes. My work is generally understated, but if you look closely, you see the quality and the effort that has been put in to create the relationship between the frames and the wearer.

From where do you draw the inspiration for your collections? Women, always. Again, a lot comes from the music I listen to; certain era’s and looks will inspire me. But it all comes back to women I see in the industry, or friends I meet. I travel between Scotland, London and Paris quite regularly, so I absorb different looks, and from that breeds new angles.

Tell us a little about your most recent line-up… My collections have evolved over the past few years from being heavily 60s and 70s inspired to being more unique to my personal design aesthetic. I have worked hard with my French factories, and I feel I have created a language in my collections that is strong but also understated and unique. Some of the shapes that seemed very strong in earlier seasons have developed into becoming best sellers. Obviously, colour is a signature as well as a consistently high-quality finish.

Vada by Danielle Rattray – in teal

What do your designs say about their wearer? (Name one, two or a few) I think on and consider my customers a lot. I create clean and uncluttered external finishes and put more intimate details on the inside of the frames. Jean and Stevie are strong and confident frames; they’re bold, whereas Teddy and Stella are more 60s inspired; softer and pretty.

Your brand seems to be extremely bold, fashion-forward and exciting; would you be open to expanding into other areas of the industry at some point in the future? Actually, I have been designing fabrics and clothing all of my career, it’s just been in the background. I have enjoyed focusing on eyewear but, with my Scottish roots, fabric and pieces that are particularly inspired by music and punk culture will never be far away. This year, I released a collection of knitwear working with one of Scotland’s oldest knitwear manufacturers – the results were incredible. That capsule is on sale now as part of my Spring ‘23 collection.

What’s next on the horizon for Danielle Rattray? I hope lots of travel, and continued progress in finding great stores to work with. We will keep our focus on the United Kingdom and France this year, but we have strong demand coming from New York and I would love to see Danielle Rattray present there. I have some new design elements coming into the collections this year, so I am looking forward to Silmo.

For more details about the brand visit www.daniellerattray.com An interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com

| Eyestylist May 1st 2023

Spring/Summer accessories: bio glasses chains

Orris London highlights supremely versatile convertible chains in chic bio acetate

The original London brand of eyewear accessories, Orris London continues to expand their range with new designs and playful colourways.  A new style – the Convertible Bio Glasses chain – is introduced this season combining functionality and playfulness. Made of bio-acetate – a plant-based plastic derived from wood pulp and cotton fibre, and mixed with some unwanted acetate stock, this new style can be worn as a short necklace, a glasses chain, a mask chain, a phone chain, or can be linked with bracelets or multiple chains to create endless possibilities of wearing. Above: Orris London chains can work as beautiful statement jewellery pieces – and make a perfect pairing with artisan eyewear

Orris London: versatile chains in bio acetate – a range of delicate colours has been introduced

Besides their best-selling neutral hues such as tortoiseshell and mother of pearl, Orris London has released some noteworthy dreamy pastel colours in the range this season with lavender, peach, baby pink, sky blue and turquoise all featured. “Some innocent optimism is what I’m looking for this season,” brand founder/designer Tara Shen told Eyestylist when we asked about the colour scheme that perfectly reflects  a key fashion trend for Spring. For more information about the designs, visit www.orrislondon.com

| Eyestylist April 27th 2023

Trend alert: decorative eyewear makes a return

EYESTYLIST EXCLUSIVE TRENDS – Frames with a jewellery finish and a more decorative ‘maximalist’ style are making a return…we found four that shine with elegance and glamour – an elevation for personal style

In a period of eclectic style, where minimalism and maximalism exist side by side, an opulent jewellery trend has caught our eye, with floral embellishments or pearls, Swarovski crystals and stones such as lapis enriching sunglasses and eyewear with individuality and style. Some brands have long been experts in these treatments, with a history of decoration and ornamentation within their lines, drawing on artisan expertise and the possibilities of limited editions and decorative effects achieved exclusively by hand. Above: informed by nature: the Iris, an iconic design from ProDesign, has been reissued for the 50th anniversary of the brand – the frame has an original flower temple detail. In the first edition the frame was produced in stainless steel; today the frame has been created exclusively in titanium – www.prodesigndenmark.com

Crystal by Vera Wang – produced by Kenmark Eyewear

At Vera Wang, where the eyewear collection follows a tradition of beautiful and often exotic embelishments featuring Swarovski stones, the latest collection includes the sunglass model Crystal, a cat eye shape with the crystal detailing creating an eye-catching flourish on the front. The frame comes in a glamorous selection of tones which include blush (above), olive and tortoise. www.kenmarkeyewear.com

Galilea by Sospiri® – a frame that celebrates a jewellery finish with minute Swarovski inlays

Among other collections we have noticed in the new sunglass model Galilea from Sospiri® by Ottica Veneta, a design with intricate details inspired by the luxury of Venice. The model comes in a spectrum of nine different shades, each frame exhibiting a harmonious blend of vivid new colours from lapis to opal. Over 150 striking Swarovski crystals adorn the frame from its front to its temples, creating a shimmer effect from every angle. Sospiri frames are produced by Ottica Veneta® | Eyewear from the Mountains of Italy, a small and wholly independent US company offering a limited edition production, 100% handmade in Italy. www.sospirieyewear.com

Jewellery effects at Marni by RSF – model Zion Canyon

Marni’s new collection produced by Retrosuperfuture includes the sparkling Zion Canyon, an oval shaped sunglass frame with a highly decorative and playfully elegant forward-looking design, embedded with sparkling blue-tinted decorative stones. For more information visit www.marni.com

| Eyestylist April 25th 2023

Eyestylist Exclusive: Woow Eyewear adds bio-acetate

‘Be Green’ is the new message at Woow Eyewear as the brand introduces biodegradable materials on its 10th anniversary

Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2023, the team at Woow Eyewear has revealed to Eyestylist that its latest project is a release of iconic and quintessential concepts from the last 10 years, produced in biodegradable acetate – a first departure in this collection. The specific material – produced by Mazzucchelli – has been selected by the Woow Eyewear design team on the basis of its verifiable provenance and its content which they explain includes cellulose powder from wood, and plasticizer (with bio based content). Above: new bio acetate model – HOLD UP by Woow Eyewear is part of a 10th anniversary edition ‘BE GREEN’ for 2023

Bolly Wool by Woow Eyewear, one of Woow’s most famous creative models, is included in the new Be Green edition

The designers Claire Ferreira and Marianne Dezes who shared a preview of the collection with Eyestylist at Mido 23, told us that they have worked hard to produce a striking display of colours and colour concepts in the new material, giving the collection radiance and style.

Feminine and feline: Come On by Woow Eyewear is one of the cat’s eye shapes in the line

Trendy highlights in the colour schemes include a graduated effect for the Come On style, combinations of bright tones which transform into gradient crystals in the model Marry Me and dazzling colour blocked tones using hues of bright pink or bold blues and greens for models Roof Top and New Rules. The classy re-edition shapes include designs for men and women, well known amongst fans of Woow, and featuring their catchy names embedded in temple tips, in customary Woow style! To find out more about the French label’s latest bio-acetate collection, visit www.wooweyewear.com

| Eyestylist April 23rd 2023

Eyestylist Exclusive: Alexander Capote, Capote Eyewear

The young Venezuelan-born founder of Capote Eyewear is catching the attention of connoisseurs of eyewear. Among the attributes of the Capote collection are a totally unique craft and design philosophy, with vitality and feeling inspired by Ibiza – magically wrapped up inside every frame. Here, Eyestylist talked to Alexander for the first time.

Capote Eyewear is becoming noticed internationally for its fusion of ideas, qualitative production and its one-of-a-kind design and design philosophy. Can you explain a little bit about how it all started? I’ve always been a vintage sunglasses collector. In 2014, I decided to open my own vintage sunglasses store, a key transition to the building of my own brand that started that summer. Capote slowly started in 2015.

What does Ibiza mean to you and how is it so intrinsic to the feeling of the brand? Ibiza’s fascinating art scene attracts inspirational and fashion-conscious people. It is therefore fertile soil for pushing the boundaries of conventional design and fashion. It was thus through a natural process that Capote flourished on the island.

Capote animism collection: Kenaz 999 in antique gold

Has Ibiza always been your home?  Ibiza has been my home since 2008. I grew up between Caracas and the countryside. After leaving Venezuela, my interest in getting to know different cultures pushed me to travel around the globe. That’s also why Capote’s community is so diverse and multi-cultural.

Capote has a store in Ibiza and it has existed for some time. Can you tell us about it and what your plans are for it? It is a flagship store that we are currently renovating to bring in some freshness for summer 2023. The main idea behind this store is to represent as much as possible the Capote vibe. The space is divided in two: the physical store is downstairs, and our lab occupies the first floor. The lab is dedicated to the development and customization of the frames.

As a brand, what have been your challenges in getting to this point? The main challenge is to bring an innovative approach and materials to our collection. This is why we’re taking the best out of aluminum, acetate, recycled material, stainless steel, titanium, rubber, etc. We explore a variety of techniques to shape those into frames and make them unique. Another challenge is keeping the link between the brand and the custumer as direct as possible, by encouraging a micro-production that involves few intermediaries. Last but not least, we aim to develop and maintain a strong community around Capote, which is an enjoyable journey but sometimes quite tough.

ACX285 by Capote Eyewear in antique gold

You have a particular notion of eyewear design, materiality, harmony and inspiration such as nature…how would you describe the frames in your current eyewear collection for Spring/summer 2023? By incorporating nature-inspired silhouettes, colours and textures, the new collection’s roots mirror Ibiza’s natural architecture. The new frames are formed by the combination of two or more simple shapes, giving more dimensional strength to our designs. In this geometrical collection, angles meet natural shapes and lines cross curves. Harmony is found in an area of contrasts and juxtapositions, providing fertile ground for limitless creativity.

Details of Walking Dreams by Capote Eyewear: a highlight for 2023

We noticed you recently did a cool looking pop-up in Paris. How did that go, and what did you learn about the Parisian consumer? We decided to develop the Parisian pop-up during Fashion Week. This super exciting new chapter is meant to get closer to our community by offering the Capote vibe within easy reach.

Adding a touch of eccentricity and wit: the Amour sunglasses  in the Area collection by Capote

About the Capote Eyewear collections for 2023: This year’s collections comprise ‘Animism’ titanium and acetate ranges and ‘Area’, inspired by the sun-soaked landscapes and architectural style of the island of Ibiza. The selection of angular, textured frames includes titanium/beta titanium geometric pieces in a palette of black/brown/bronze and antique silver. The Amour style breaks up the minimal direction, but perfectly sits with it as a charming, heart-shaped design worked artfully in titanium. Quite a different story from the ubiquitous ‘commercial’ heart glasses, the result is an eccentric artisan statement of design, fun and free-spirited.

The Animism Collection – Animism derives from Latin, anima means ‘breath, spirit, life’ –  perfectly embodies the feeling of the brand with the concept which attributes inner life to both animate and inanimate elements of the world. The eyewear in the line – which includes nicely proportioned artisan styles in acetate or titanium, suited to sun or optical lenses – also presents the INCUBUS mask, constructed in steel and rubber with Carbolite lenses – and originally designed by Capote for the desert festivals and Burning Man. Find out more about Capote Eyewear on our link at https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/02/mens-glasses-capote-eyewear and at www.capoteeyewear.com