Eyestylist

Special anniversary celebrations for 2022, and a new store in Milan

On the occasion of its 10^th Anniversary, Kuboraum has celebrated the journey that started in Berlin in 2012 with a year-long series of events, exploring the brand’s relationship with eyewear, music and art. The event invites everyone to leave behind preconceptions about reality and go beyond the physical world, to embark on a journey that aims to create a strong sense of community. Ultimately, the goal of the project is to trigger a movement which will encourage people to dig deeper and reveal their personal inner self, as Kuboraum’s manifesto ‘We Travel To Know Our Own Geography’ recites. Sharing these common values, Kuboraum & Terraforma have presented a co-curated event series as part of ‘10 Years Of Travelling’ which will take place throughout the year in different spaces in collaboration with various multidisciplinary artists. This project will involve evocative locations and will explore the relationship between music, art and the urban dimension. Above: interior of the new KUBORAUM + INNERRAUM store in Milan (Photography: @piercarloqueccia DSL Studio)

After a successful first event in Venice during the opening of the 59^th Venice Biennale, Kuboraum announced a ‘10 Years Of Travelling’ event in Milan on April 28^th at CASA FLASH ART, along with the inauguration of the new KUBORAUM & INNERRAUM Flagship Store in the centre of Milan. Besides an exhibition of Kuboraum’s Eye Couture masks, which focused on precious Italian handcraft and follows the brand’s genesis and evolution, the artists involved in this event were AGNES QUESTIONMARK (Agnes?), who presented her new performance SIRENOMELIA, and a DJ set by PAN label head Bill Kouligas.

Agnes?, born in Rome and based in London, with her SIRENOMELIA explored the depths and limits of identity and evolution, which stem from her own personal exploration. Depicted as an aquatic hybrid creature, she wishes to portray a metaphor for body and identity as liquid entities that constantly change in form and shape. Bill Kouligas, founder and artistic director of the multidisciplinary platform and record label PAN, investigated identity in terms of music, embarking on a journey into the unknown through other-worldly sounds that define conventions of ‘genre’.

The KUBORAUM & INNERRAUM Flagship Store opened at via Bigli 24, in the centre of Milan, and consists of two rooms, with a powerful design that goes beyond the usual concept of retail. As a post on the brand’s Instagram page explains, one room features Kuboraum and presents a patchwork wall of plaster as a tribute by founder Livio to the Italian Neo Classical sculptor Antonio Canova, and sculptures by artist Emiliano Maggi that combine psychedelic scenarios with mythological symbolism and rural iconography inspired by fairy tales and dreams. The second room houses Innerraum and has a sci-fi style light box with a glass bookcase made by Glass Italia in collaboration with the architect Andrea Eusebi.

Via Bigli 24, Milan, Italy

A feature by Alberto Massaro exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Images by kind permission of Andrea Eusebi, architect. Sculpture by @emi_maggi. Photography; @piercarloqueccia – @dsl_studio. All rights reserved. 

A new German store specialising in sustainable eyewear

Bringing a new meaning to ‘sustainable eyewear’, OPTANICALS considers their impact on the planet in every aspect of their business model – even their name takes inspiration from Mother Earth. With frames in wood and beans to styles in recycled repurposed materials and strictly fitting their store with old furniture – to name just a few of these endeavours – the company truly sets a bar for optical businesses looking to make a step towards a greener future.

“Our motto is “sustainable optician” explain owners Tina and Paul.  “We are usually looking for sustainable producers exclusively. In fact, the options in this area are rather limited and therefore the selections we do make are also smaller. Our brands are made from recycled plastic, metal, ocean plastic, wood and even beans – we have created our own brand, and we also sell Rolf Spectacles, Sea2see, Dick Moby and neubau. The materials have special properties and have a long product life, which are both very important to us. We think that fast fashion is receding more and more into the background, and we want to avoid that.

“…we hope that our concept will be well received and that more projects with sustainability in mind will be implemented in the optical industry in the near future. Our goal and wish is that we can open more shops in Germany and thus enable more people to choose new glasses with a sustainable approach.” Optanicals

Optanicals have even gone as far as creating their own brand, crafted in wood and manufactured close to the Weimar store. “We can adapt the glasses individually to each customer and our frames are characterised by their comfortable fit as well as their lightness. We also stock Rolf frames that are made from castor beans and are incredibly strong; they’re made from the castor bean plant using 3D printing. You can sit on them, tie the temples, and even twist the temple hinges completely without breaking the frame. Other frames we stock are made from recycled metal and plastic, these have a very comfortable fit and are mostly unique. Some especially individual frames, are Sashee Schuster´s range – she works with flowers, grass, feathers, and coloured peppers.”

Asked if there was a particular moment or turning point that stands out in terms of when they realised they wanted to live and work more sustainably, the co-owners are open. “Both of us, independently of one another, have already become attached to and hold sustainability at a very high level of importance. The problem at the beginning was more ‘how do we make this  accepted’ and then ‘where does  it make sense to try out our concepts?’. Above all, the idea was not well received by everyone. People met us with criticism, they might talk about “greenwashing” or make comments like “can you eat the frames then?” from time to time. But our decision was made during a hike, when I called Paul and said: “No risk, no fun. We’ll  just do it now….” – and so, our  sustainable store was born.

On transparency and the development of sustainable collections in eyewear, the team is knowledgeable, passionate and open. “Every pair of glasses made from newly acquired, raw materials is a step in the wrong direction, and the packaging and production methods are just as much a part of the product” they explained to Eyestylist. “You should always look at the whole picture, not just one part of it. The glasses are not just a product in themselves, they represent the manufacturer’s attitude towards sustainability and its implementation; think about transport routes, production methods and materials. All of this should be completely sustainable, which it is not right now; only at that point will we have reached our goal!”

“We are trying to implement an entirely sustainable business model,” they explained. “From frame materials, to shorter transport routes and production within Europe. It’s also important to us that the manufacturers control the direction of CO2 neutrality. This is why we decided to use Zeiss lenses, made for our customers in Germany. Zeiss also chooses ‘blanks’ that do not produce so much waste. As we mentioned, we decided on fitting our shop out with strictly old furniture and materials, on top of that we are going completely digital, avoiding paper waste. Our glasses cleaning set consists of a linen bag that Paul’s mum sewed for us, and we refill the glasses cleaning spray free of charge. Oh, and our neighbour will soon be making glasses ‘cords’ for us from old garbage bags. We also hope that we can afford a new filter system for our grinding machine in August, this would filter any plastic from the water circuit of the system. What is filtered out can then ultimately be recycled and thus found a new use – as you can see, we have done a lot, but we know we still have a lot to change.”

For store design, the simple approach is a breath of fresh air, original and clear with the sustainable message.  “Our colour concept was already in place before we even found our constructor. Since the theme is sustainability and our name “Optanicals” is made up of the words ‘Botanicals’ and ‘Optician’, a green colour scheme felt only natural. When we were looking for our interior designer, one thing was of absolute importance; no new furniture. So, we found an interior designer via Instagram who knew how to give new life to old furniture; he took up the colour concept and implemented it with vintage furniture. We were more than lucky finding him and we know no one could have been a better fit. Each piece we have is unique and his eye for the overall aesthetic was really outstanding. A favourite example is our till: old doors were converted in such a way that it would have a new use. Our business is uniquely sustainable and there is nobody like us in the world!” For more information about Optanicals, visit www.optanicals.de

Kaufstraße 18, 99423 Weimar, Germany

Co-written by Victoria L. Brunton and Clodagh Norton. An exclusive feature by Eyestylist.com.