Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 24th May 2022

Diffuser Tokyo: Masaki Hirose on handmade accessories

Repopulating the world of optics with fashion-forward accessories designed with a fresh and desirable edge in mind is at the core of founder Masaki Hirose’s approach – but that does not mean his products are limited by gender, they’re limitless. Eyestylist caught up with the Japanese accessories innovator.

“I started working at DITA Eyewear in 2006, and my own brand Diffuser Tokyo was created six years later in 2012,” says Masaki Hirose, the Japanese founder of Diffuser Tokyo, an innovator in accessories who has changed the face of what these products once were. “At that time, many people around me were working with Japanese clothing brands, and I think I learned a lot from them. When I was in charge of domestic sales, I was in constant communication with many people across the eyewear industry. They were looking for something the current market didn’t provide: fashionable eyewear accessories. I researched the accessories market and discovered many high-end eyewear stores didn’t carry eyewear accessories: they were unavailable.”

Cords and cases by Diffuser Tokyo: made from natural fibres and high quality leather

Masaki discovered that the number of stores looking for new designs and fashionable eyewear cases in the Japanese market was increasing rapidly, but there were only cheap and ordinary accessories which were mostly manufactured in China.

So he embarked on a journey to make on-trend, stylish eyewear accessories for the stores himself. “I had no design experience, nor any knowledge of how to procure raw materials. There are some suppliers out there who do not welcome inexperienced people, and I had a hard time finding the right ones to work with at first. Many refused to sell materials to us. Now I feel blessed that Diffuser has gained so much support from the eyewear industry and consumers, making it the popular brand it is today.”

Diffuser cases: natural high-quality materials and colorations are a focus

Masaki started out with an interest in optics and fashion retail, which helped. “I was interested in both so to speak. Both have philosophies rooted in fashion per se, so I found both industries interesting even if the way of thinking and perception of each one is actually completely different. Of course, as I mentioned, there were not many options in the field of optics when I started this brand; I couldn’t find eyewear accessories that men like me were enthusiastic about or wanted to wear. I therefore focused on design concepts and materials used in other types of products…my products were based on the idea that the customer who purchases it will feel some kind of excitement and joy…”

New at Diffuser Tokyo: a presentation piece (model SG112) with cover to protect the frame or other items like jewellery when not in use – the product was inspired by the domes used to cover and protect food

Realising the limitless potential of something more stylish and design-focused, the range became extensive and more orientated towards gender-fluid design. “We are not aiming to segregate our products according to gender. When we start our design process, we start with the choice of the materials before moving into texture, shape and other aspects of sourcing to create a style suited to anyone. At the present time we have many female customers; some of them tend to lean towards our more masculine products and we’ve welcomed this from the start.

The brand has also differentiated itself by collaborating with small artisan studios and creators in Japan. They work with leather specialists outside Tokyo. “Many of the leather artisans had reached a turning point when I started this brand, so I started working with them. Some of them had never made eyewear accessories before. Our cord factory, for example, takes on new challenges every day in order to respond to my requests. We believe that this initiative can improve their sustainability and in turn ours, and lead them to acquire new technologies and opportunities.”
Masaki adds that he also sells a product that can easily be repaired. “Effective and valuable usage and reduction of waste is a kind of Japanese value in the present day. We provide the customer with after-sales service repair and technical advice, and we’ve seen from the few repairs we’ve made so far that customers want to continue using our products even if they were purchased a long time ago. Like taking care of a favourite leather shoe, this is another way to reduce waste and remain eco-friendly.” An exclusive feature by Victoria  G. Brunton and Clodagh Norton – Eyestylist.com

To find out more about DIFFUSER TOKYO visit https://diffuser-tokyo.com/en/

  | Eyestylist 20th May 2022

Iggy Pop for Cutler and Gross x The Great Frog

 A new collaboration of distinction / Iggy Pop in Jack Waterlot campaign

An exclusive eyewear edition by Cutler and Gross and British Rock ‘n’ Roll jewellers, The Great Frog, launches today online at www.cutlerandgross.com as Iggy Pop is revealed as the face of the campaign. Photographed  by Jack Waterlot in Coral Gables – the musician is seen in close up wearing the sunglass models, TGF rings including the silver rose and skull rings and a thick silver chain. Above: Iggy Pop wears The Crossbones Sunglasses in olive

Iggy Pop: “These shades say something.”* – The Reaper Sunglasses in a transparent blood-red Bordeaux

The Cutler and Gross x The Great Frog eyewear designs have been created in a complex process of production in Italy with special development of the iconic TGF 925 silver details which are hand cast and appear on fronts and/or temples; the Reaper, Crossbones and Dagger, symbols of The Great Frog. The collection launched comprises five unisex styles; three sunglasses and two opticals in a palette of colours which includes classic black, leaf green and a cool pewter grey. The colleciton is available in Cutler and Gross and The Great Frog stores  as well as online. To find out more visit www.thegreatfroglondon.com and www.cutlerandgross.com / Written by Clodagh Norton  www.eyestylist.com

  | Eyestylist 19th May 2022

Akoni parties at TANK in London

Presentation of S/S collection and new campaign at TANK GPS space

On Wednesday 18th May, 2022, AKONI Creative Director Salma Rachid and CEO Rosario Toscano, and Caroline Issa hosted key press and VIP guests at TANK  to present the AKONI S/S ’22 collection and campaign featuring work by Lea Colombo.

The AKONI collection, which is inspired by wristwatches, writing instruments and other precious heirloom designs, has quickly begun to establish a name for itself as a reference for luxury, incorporating the latest advances in frame materials, craft and technology as well as technical details which include a distinctive threaded-tube screw system.

AKONI event London – Photography by David M. Benett/Getty Images – Keon Heelee, Stephen Odubola and Baek Do Hyun

Attendees included Stephen Odubola, Donna Wallace, Noella Coursaris Musunka, Appiok Dier Tong, Amya Powell, Tilly Main, Zac Stenmark, Casey James, Reece Clarke, Tatyana Kodzayeva, Brett Staniland, Keon Heelee, Emmanuel, Baek Do Hyun and Eyestylist.com. Akoni designs, manufactures and distributes luxury eyewear as an independent company promoting craftsmanship, expertise and quality. In June 2020, French luxury fashion maison Balmain signed a deal with Akoni for a collection which has become talked about for its Japanese production quality and expert craftsmanship. An additional new luxury brand is already in the pipeline and soon to be announced. For more details about the AKONI eyewear collection visit: www.akoni.ch

  | Eyestylist 18th May 2022

opti 2022: return to ‘live’

The Munich event celebrated the return of face-to-face meetings, friendly conversations and the bringing together of the industry again

opti 2022, which took place on the weekend of 13th to 15th May, following numerous prior disruptions from the pandemic, has been celebrated as an ideal reunion for brands and business partners, opticians and optical ‘friends’. A convivial and relaxed atmosphere, where visitors could have direct access to some of the finest established and emerging independent labels in the business meant that there was much opportunity for new inspiration, trend analysis and fresh and exciting buying opportunities for all those interested in unique eyewear. Above: Clodagh Norton, Eyestylist.com and co-founder of Lunettes ALF, Germain Bouchara – ‘catching up after over two years’ – photography by Julien Alazard

French label Lunettes ALF is distributed by Wolf Continental in Germany – green was one of the most popular fresh colours for eyewear  at opti

Lunettes ALF, a brand that is already well established in Germany, exhibited as part of Wolf Continental, the House of Independent Quality Eyewear working with a selection of luxury and artisan brands including ALF, Lasry, and Frank Custom in the German-speaking region.

LEINZ Eyewear won the opti BOX award at opti 2022

Among the highlights of the weekend was a win by LEINZ Eyewear, who received the opti Box Award. Beate Leinz is a well-known eyewear designer and her young eponymous label has a captivating, creative contemporary design focus with consistent interest in quality, originality and modern materials such as 3D printed polyamide – exploring the materials’ potential in glamorous forms.

Several brands we do not know so well caught our eye at the fair, and a particularly warm welcome was appreciated at Lazare Studio, a label born in Lyon and headed by the optician (of Entre-Vues) and creator, Alexandre Caton. His expertise in and passion for vintage has translated into a collection that is innovative and surprising – where the choice of materials, weight distribution and technical details such as hinges are highly considered and result in a quite different outcome in terms of the experience of the frame and how it feels to wear.

Newton by Lazare Studio: minimal lines, sharp edges, directly inspired by 1940s eyewear styles

Newton by Lazare Studio is representative of the ‘neo retro’ design work at the French brand. Each frame is described as the result of the meeting of “two worlds that were never meant to collide. On the one hand, a selection of exclusive signature parts made from ancestral materials sourced from Japan, and on the other, the extraordinary savoir-faire of the Jura workshops in France.”

Interstellar in the Quantum High collection- Ørgreen Optics: 3D printed polyamide front, beta titanium wire temples with accent colours and an integrated hinge system

Other innovators such as Cutler and Gross, Blackfin, Rolf Spectacles, VAVA, Youmawo, Ørgreen Optics, J F REY, RIGARDS and RES/REI showed the season’s new collections with attention on sustainability, exceptional quality and new modes of design; contemporary materials were more eclectic than ever, with 3D printed, customisable and plant-based designs well represented alongside the classic high-quality and luxury materials like cellulose acetate, wood, buffalo horn and titanium. opti 2023 will take place on 27 to 29th January 2023. To read more about what we discovered at the shows this season follow Eyestylist on the website and our social media. For more details about the Munich fair, visit www.opti.de

  | Eyestylist 16th May 2022

Haute Couture eyewear: made in Florence

FATHER$ON eyewear by couturier designer Clarissa Oliverio – a bridge between past and future

The young couturier designer Clarissa Oliverio has created a collection of haute couture eyewear which features luxury Florentine fabrics and silver jewellery. Shown for the first time in Milan in May 2022, each piece is made by hand in Florence with a strict adherence to old-fashioned artisan design and handcrafting. Oliverio describes her designs as “the first glasses in the world set with the velvets and silk brocades of Florence, handmade with nineteenth-century looms, expertly created by the Master weavers of the historic Lisio Silk Art Foundation, established in 1971 to preserve and pass on the work of the Giuseppe Lisio 1906 Manufactory. This extraordinary foundation possesses looms from the end of the 19th century, and produces silk in the old-fashioned way, with just a few centimetres of fabric being produced in one day. Above: the model ‘Rinascimento Fiorentino’ (Florentine Renaissance) – has a structured design with a flat top in white Mazzucchelli acetate featuring a silver crocodile on the temple and silk brocade insert

Butterfly effect’ by FATHER$ON: oversized and glamorous, this Mazzucchelli acetate frame features silver work on the temples and silk velvet insert

“Our glasses are all handcrafted, as well as their precious decorations,” says Clarissa Oliverio, CEO and Couturier. “In addition to the insertion of velvets and silk brocades handmade with the looms from the late nineteenth century in Florence, our models boast silver jewellery applied to the frame, handcrafted by the well-known Florentine goldsmith Marco Cantini.”

FATHER$ON eyewear from Florence: model Giglio (Lily) – a bold asymmetrical design with silver jewellery details and silk fabric inlay

About the brand: FATHER$ON was founded by Clarissa Oliverio and the collection was launched for the first time at MIDO in 2022. Born and raised in Italy in the city of Como, better known as “Lake Como”, of parents who made and traded items in pure silk, Clarissa Oliverio grew up with a natural love of craftsmanship of hand-made silk items; through contact with her family’s workshop, she developed a strong passion and inclination for superior artisan creativity and historic modes of production by hand. In recent years she has dedicated herself to the creation of the FATHER$ON project, which was born as a family start-up. Working with her partner, Emanuele Dani, Florentine by birth, Clarissa has turned her artistic capabilities into a business reality that has been well received by the sector for its originality and style. She says: “Constancy and total dedication and an immeasurable passion for the creation of FATHER$ON eyewear always push us beyond the innumerable difficulties, but also towards the enormous satisfactions that an Italian start-up can encounter. We are Italians who are proud of the artistic history of their country, and we aim to create a link between truly creative design and the Italian excellence of the workmanship that passes between the expert hands of the Italian workshops and the historic ones of Florence.” Find out more: www.fathersonfirenze.com