Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 14th June 2022

RES/REI: studies in colour and contemporary form

Lightness, delicacy, and a passionate focus on colour artistry are the characteristics of a new collection of glasses and sunglasses at the Italian handmade label

Dance. Architecture. Flora and fauna. Sculpture…..Worlds of aesthetic beauty, intellect and intrigue outside the world of eyewear have been a source of inspiration and reference at RES/REI for some years, thanks to an interest in beautiful things, concepts and individualistic colours, explored in combinations. The latest collection is further testament to the brand’s unique approach to designing frames, where an astute focus on colour and fresh design has also given rise to a distinct and enchanting approach to details and the design of the smallest parts of the frame.  Above: sunglasses in the S/S 2022 season’s collections at RES/REI. Top, model Garofano in the Flowers collection in a colorway that includes light green, lavender and pink, balanced with a gradient blue-pink lens; below this style is model Glicine in the Flowers collection, pictured in pink with brown havana and grey and a gradient brown lens

RES/REI: model Gio in the Architects collection

Part of the Architects collection at RES/REI, a range inspired by the creative wisdom of the architects of the world, model Gio offers an example of the work with colour in acetate in this brand new collection. The combinations of two or three tones in some of these acetate styles – in this case a mix of green, yellow and turquoise, have a light and luminous quality that is both fascinating and delicate.

| Eyestylist 13th June 2022

A sustainable vision: Optanicals, Weimar, Germany

A new German store specialising in sustainable eyewear

Bringing a new meaning to ‘sustainable eyewear’, OPTANICALS considers their impact on the planet in every aspect of their business model – even their name takes inspiration from Mother Earth. With frames in wood and beans to styles in recycled repurposed materials and strictly fitting their store with old furniture – to name just a few of these endeavours – the company truly sets a bar for optical businesses looking to make a step towards a greener future.

“Our motto is “sustainable optician” explain owners Tina and Paul.  “We are usually looking for sustainable producers exclusively. In fact, the options in this area are rather limited and therefore the selections we do make are also smaller. Our brands are made from recycled plastic, metal, ocean plastic, wood and even beans – we have created our own brand, and we also sell Rolf Spectacles, Sea2see, Dick Moby and neubau. The materials have special properties and have a long product life, which are both very important to us. We think that fast fashion is receding more and more into the background, and we want to avoid that.

“…we hope that our concept will be well received and that more projects with sustainability in mind will be implemented in the optical industry in the near future. Our goal and wish is that we can open more shops in Germany and thus enable more people to choose new glasses with a sustainable approach.” Optanicals

Optanicals – a new sustainable eyewear store in Weimar

Optanicals have even gone as far as creating their own brand, crafted in wood and manufactured close to the Weimar store. “We can adapt the glasses individually to each customer and our frames are characterised by their comfortable fit as well as their lightness. We also stock Rolf frames that are made from castor beans and are incredibly strong; they’re made from the castor bean plant using 3D printing. You can sit on them, tie the temples, and even twist the temple hinges completely without breaking the frame. Other frames we stock are made from recycled metal and plastic, these have a very comfortable fit and are mostly unique. Some especially individual frames, are Sashee Schuster´s range – she works with flowers, grass, feathers, and coloured peppers.”

Asked if there was a particular moment or turning point that stands out in terms of when they realised they wanted to live and work more sustainably, the co-owners are open. “Both of us, independently of one another, have already become attached to and hold sustainability at a very high level of importance. The problem at the beginning was more ‘how do we make this  accepted’ and then ‘where does  it make sense to try out our concepts?’. Above all, the idea was not well received by everyone. People met us with criticism, they might talk about “greenwashing” or make comments like “can you eat the frames then?” from time to time. But our decision was made during a hike, when I called Paul and said: “No risk, no fun. We’ll  just do it now….” – and so, our  sustainable store was born.

On transparency and the development of sustainable collections in eyewear, the team is knowledgeable, passionate and open. “Every pair of glasses made from newly acquired, raw materials is a step in the wrong direction, and the packaging and production methods are just as much a part of the product” they explained to Eyestylist. “You should always look at the whole picture, not just one part of it. The glasses are not just a product in themselves, they represent the manufacturer’s attitude towards sustainability and its implementation; think about transport routes, production methods and materials. All of this should be completely sustainable, which it is not right now; only at that point will we have reached our goal!”

“We are trying to implement an entirely sustainable business model,” they explained. “From frame materials, to shorter transport routes and production within Europe. It’s also important to us that the manufacturers control the direction of CO2 neutrality. This is why we decided to use Zeiss lenses, made for our customers in Germany. Zeiss also chooses ‘blanks’ that do not produce so much waste. As we mentioned, we decided on fitting our shop out with strictly old furniture and materials, on top of that we are going completely digital, avoiding paper waste. Our glasses cleaning set consists of a linen bag that Paul’s mum sewed for us, and we refill the glasses cleaning spray free of charge. Oh, and our neighbour will soon be making glasses ‘cords’ for us from old garbage bags. We also hope that we can afford a new filter system for our grinding machine in August, this would filter any plastic from the water circuit of the system. What is filtered out can then ultimately be recycled and thus found a new use – as you can see, we have done a lot, but we know we still have a lot to change.”

Optanicals in Weimar is run by Tina and Paul

For store design, the simple approach is a breath of fresh air, original and clear with the sustainable message.  “Our colour concept was already in place before we even found our constructor. Since the theme is sustainability and our name “Optanicals” is made up of the words ‘Botanicals’ and ‘Optician’, a green colour scheme felt only natural. When we were looking for our interior designer, one thing was of absolute importance; no new furniture. So, we found an interior designer via Instagram who knew how to give new life to old furniture; he took up the colour concept and implemented it with vintage furniture. We were more than lucky finding him and we know no one could have been a better fit. Each piece we have is unique and his eye for the overall aesthetic was really outstanding. A favourite example is our till: old doors were converted in such a way that it would have a new use. Our business is uniquely sustainable and there is nobody like us in the world!” For more information about Optanicals, visit www.optanicals.de

Kaufstraße 18, 99423 Weimar, Germany

Co-written by Victoria L. Brunton and Clodagh Norton. An exclusive feature by Eyestylist.com.

| Eyestylist 10th June 2022

Limited Edition: Ted Baker X Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

The sunglasses label and the British fashion brand Ted Baker have launched a bold and wearable limited edition

The iconic British sunglasses label has lent a few of its most prestigious shapes to a fun youthful limited edition by Ted Baker especially for the summer season. The collection aims to “tell a story of innovation, self-expression and individuality”. Featuring two women’s designs and two more classically male shapes, the edition conjures up the style of Jackie Onassis, Michael Caine and Audrey Hepburn in a new modern take on truly classic eyewear. The timeless silhouettes have been given an injection of colour and personality with signature Ted Baker prints lining the inside of each style, celebrating the heartland of the brand and matching back to clothing across its SS22 collections. Above: classic and cool sunglass design, with shapes for men and women

Lord Whippet is one of the classic Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses shapes in the collaboration collection

‘As the originators of fashion eyewear, Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses are intrinsically rooted in British culture and so the opportunity to partner with another likeminded British heritage brand makes perfect sense. For this collection we extensively explored Ted Baker’s design archives and have developed a technique of marrying print to frame which is something we’ve never tried before.’ – Claire Goldsmith, Fourth Generation Owner, Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

1960s: a  glamorous, round silhouette in the collection with a fun patterned lining

The edition also includes the 1960s oval sunglasses, a perfectly on-trend shape for the current season, with soft bevelling and a subtle graduated lens. To see more styles visit: www.tedbaker.com

| Eyestylist 8th June 2022

Danish luxury eyewear : Ørgreen Optics

Grand Danois collection pushes the envelope for luxury combinations

Refined, exclusive, and characterised by the finest luxury materials in innovative combinations: the launch of Grand Danois signals an exciting step for the Danish company, where iconic styles from the brand’s IMAGINARY LINES collection are freshly interpreted in luxurious precious metals. The metals, which include gold, ruthenium and palladium, are corrosion-resistant metals that have historically been used in jewellery, currency, and investment. With an emphasis on minimalist and fashion-forward design, the styles are extremely thin and modern, with a precious finish and impressive lightness. Above: The Grand Danois collection was launched in Spring 2022. The titanium styles are plated in gold, ruthenium and palladium – they represent the company’s thinnest titanium styles to date

Grand Danois by Ørgreen Optics: born out of the Danish tradition for contemporary, minimal design

During production, each frame receives three layers of plating, starting with a layer of 24-carat gold, followed by a gold alloy plating (rose gold as well as traditional), palladium, or ruthenium. The result is an extremely high-quality frame, with a total precious metal plating thickness of 3 microns.

Model Equator in the Grand Danois collection: a mix of mat and shiny colours – a speciality at Ørgreen – brings added charm

Each exclusive frame in this line is offered in three different precious-plated shiny and mat colours. The women’s styles come in rose gold, luna gold (a more traditional gold colour), and penta grey (realized in the precious metal ruthenium), while men’s styles come in penta grey, palladium (appearing as a radiant silver), and a fusion of gold or penta grey with an exclusive tortoise pattern on the eye rim. The latter, realized by intricate foil transfer technology, is referred to by Orgreen as “a small revolution in the field of precious metal plating”, where one by one, patterned foil is wrapped by hand onto the eye rim of each frame – see model Equator above, with the precious patterned foil).

Find out more about this luxury collection at Ørgreen Optics: https://orgreenoptics.com/collection/grand-danois/?_sf_s=superbank

| Eyestylist 6th June 2022

10 questions – Daniel Brunson: Hicks Brunson Eyewear, Tulsa, Oklahoma

In a new conversation series with personalities in optics, we talked to Daniel Brunson, the owner of Hicks Brunson Eyewear in Tulsa – whose taste for great glasses and luxury brands we’ve come to enjoy @hicksbrunson and @daniel.g.brunson on Instagram. The store is located at 2020 Utica Square, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74114. Above: Daniel wears Orion by Masunaga x Kenzo Takada

1/What’s your USP at Hicks Brunson? We carry a wide selection of independent eyewear that skews towards the high-end luxury segment, and we take opticianry seriously.  We take as much time as needed to style and fit our clients, and we get to know them on a personal level so we can understand their unique needs.

2/From where has your taste for luxury eyewear grown and evolved? I brought Tom Davies eyewear into my store in 2007, and at that point I realized the importance and the value of working with independent designers.  I met Tom in person a few years later at Vision Expo West in 2009, and I realized he was someone I wanted to continue to partner with.  I eventually carried his luxury horn and sterling silver frames.  I even carried two sunglasses he once made that had salmon skin on the frame fronts.  He and I reminisced about the salmon skin frames at Vision Expo East this year, and we both agreed that we don’t think anyone else has probably ever used salmon skin on a frame.  I eventually went on to carry luxury brands like Leisure Society known for 18K and 24k gold plating.  My most recent luxury brand acquisition was bringing in T Henri this year at Vision Expo East.  I am very excited about working with Tyler and his beautiful line all inspired by the world’s rarest performance vehicles.

3/What frame are you wearing today? Today I am wearing my newest frame, which is a model by Gotti Switzerland called Pieper.  It is actually a sunglasses frame that I converted to an optical by making Transitions XTRActive Brown lenses for it. It is a navigator shape in matte gold titanium.  The coolest feature is the Spin & Stow temples.  The hinges have a spin feature so you can rotate them 180 degrees before folding them so they lay perfectly flat against the wrapped frame front. This allows them to fold up in a more compact way so as to fit into a smaller case than would otherwise be possible.

Daniel wearing T Henri Continental in the color Vapor

4/ Do you have a go-to frame for special events and parties? That would my signature special event look, which is a frame by Masunaga. It is the model 000 in classic black. I love this frame for the bold and thick silhouette, the seven-barrel titanium hinge, and the fact that it has been made since the 1960s which makes it iconic in my mind. I have recently updated the lenses to the new Transitions XTRActive Polarized technology.

5/ What’s you best tip on finding a classic frame that REALLY suits the wearer (it’s not always easy finding THE ONE in a short space of time….) You have to ask questions to find out what they like and do not like about their current glasses.  Once you have a general idea of the direction to head in, then you starting trying things on.  I usually like to see two to four shapes on their face, and look at bridge fit to determine the best size, shape, and fit. This gets easier with practice. After enough fittings you come to recognize face shapes that look best in certain frame shapes, and you absolutely have to know your inventory.
 
6/ Color of 2022 (for you personally this year)? How do you choose just one?  I feel my best in black, especially when it’s a heavy statement frame like my Masunaga 000.
 
7/ Favorite frame silhouette and why? I love the navigator shape, whether as  sunglasses or an optical. It’s so classic, and not as commonly worn as the aviator.
 
8/ Most interesting fact about your store and its historic origins “since 1952″? Our founder Hicks G. Brunson, who was my great grandfather, was running an American Optical store in downtown Tulsa in the years before he founded Hicks Brunson Eyewear.  AO was going through a period of selling off many of their optical dispensaries and he bought the store he was managing and changed the name to Hicks Brunson.  So in that way we are connected to the quite old and iconic American Optical brand.
Hicks Brunson Eyewear in Oklahoma
9/ Next foreign trip, holiday or optical event for work and why? I’m sure by the time this feature has published it will have already happened, but shortly I am headed to Orlando, Florida for Transitions Academy.  This will be my seventh time attending and it is easily one of my favorite optical events.  I think it may be one of the industry’s best kept secrets.  I have seen fantastic speakers there.  The kind of speakers who give TED Talks. I have also connected with some of my best industry friends from whom I have been fortunate to learn much over the years.
10/ What’s next in the world of Hicks Brunson Eyewear?  I’m really excited about the new luxury brand T Henri that I picked up this year at Vision Expo East. The metal is all pure Japanese titanium from Sabae, and it is 18k gold plated.  Each frame is part of a limited-edition production, which means they only make from 40 to 99 pieces at most in any one colorway.  Each frame is engraved with the production number, and comes with a certificate corresponding to that number.  They are all really beautiful, and as I said before, Tyler Henri designed the frames by taking inspiration from the world’s rarest performance vehicles. The label has been doing really well with our clients, and we are excited to be one of the exclusive retailers to carry it.
For further details about Hicks Brunson Eyewear, visit www.HicksBrunson.com
This feature is an Eyestylist Exclusive. All rights reserved.