Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 15th March 2021

Statement style – BLACKFIN turns up the volume

Bold interpretations in titanium at the Italian independent label

Large proportions, graphic styling, statement style, colours which express energy, strength and personality. The Italian label Blackfin has a range of new styles in its Aura, One and Razor lines. Produced in Blackfin’s signature titanium, the material that forms the basis of the Blackfin design aesthetic, the graphic forms express the season’s focus on confident, oversized constructions inspired by iconic shapes and redefined with modern lines and attention to technical practicalities such as lightweight comfort and ease of wear. Above: the new sunglasses and optical frames were shot on location in the Venice lagoon, Northern Italy

Statement style – Saint Lazar by Blackfin: a combination frame with large circular shape – striking for angular/square face shapes

The statement Saint Lazar frame in the Aura range offers a fine ultra-flexible beta titanium structure defined by the addition of acetate rims which line the upper section – the distinctive mark of the Aura collection. The frame is available in white with crystal acetate (above) as well as bright multi colored variations which include pink with a gradient burgundy and red with transparent purple.

Satement style – Multi-sided frames continue to appear in eyewear collections in 2021: Danzica by Blackfin in pure titanium

For something different in pure titanium, the hexagonal Danzica frame is the type of design that will flatter round or oval faces – it’s an exciting shape to wear. In this case, the colour palette unites tones of many varieties, from the more classically oriented brown and gold to blue and pink or red/magenta. See all the magnificent colour combinations available by visiting the Blackfin website at www.blackfin.eu

| Eyestylist 11th March 2021

Mood-changers: Spring stripes are a new staple

Hairline, nautical, pencil or pin? Graphic stripes are always current, enhancing frame tones, adding surprise or brightening spirits.  A recurring theme for creative eyewear, this season a myriad of fresh new stripes with beautiful artistic colorations and amazing individuality add pattern and movement, colour and depth.

Above: from FACE A FACE, Bocca Pixies 1 – a sophisticated horizontal needle stripe effect on the Bocca Pixies, combined with the exciting Escher-inspired edging – creates a delicate feel of movement across the frame front – the transparent striped amber coloration is fresh, chic and subtly bohemian:  www.faceaface-paris.com/en/products/suns/bocca-pixies-1/?variant=transparentstripedamber

Kola by l.a.Eyeworks – unique mismatching – timeless tortoise has a different look when paired with playful horizontal stripes

For men and women, smarter, bolder glasses are the confidence boost that some have just discovered in our new world of working from home. An exciting colour combination, a mix and match design, or different striking styles of stripey acetate are therefore fresh and bold for Spring – and bring polish to a look. For men, and a cool new way to wear your stripes, l.a.Eyeworks’ model Kola balances timeless tortoise with a hint at horizontals  – like a tailored suit enlivened by a pin-stripe shirt. The frame is defined by a strong angular shape with smart tailored edges. Find out more: www.laeyeworks.com

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Girl 8025T by Lafont Paris – combining solid black and light and ‘airy’ striped crystal

Dipping into an archive of historic frames, the Girl 8025T at French design house Lafont comes from a tradition of exploring fabric and texture with special effect in sparkly crystal acetate paired with a defining black upper rim. The lightness of the stripey pattern gives it a glistening sheen that is feminine and luxurious and eye-catching when worn. www.lafont.com

The square-shaped Erika by Tree Spectacles from the Stripes Capsule: artistic and uniquely styled, the frame combines chic transparent crystal and a delicate stripey top in soft yellow, grey and black

At Tree a new capsule highlights vertical stripe detailing on the upper rims. The three new models in this series are characterised by a lightweight chic design with minimal lines and the characteristic decorative flourish which is modern and different. For more on this range visit www.treespectacles.com

| Eyestylist 9th March 2021

Eyes On Hudson, Hudson Valley, NY

A family-owned, state-of-the-art store in Dobbs Ferry, NY – specialists in contemporary independent eyewear design

Katelyn Rogerson’s new store Eyes on Hudson opened in 2020, a breathtaking state-of-the-art retail space turned independent eyewear destination. With an extraordinary mix of curated collections by independent designers, the store represents a new dynamic retail concept achieved through youthful passion, a natural affinity with artisan design and over 10 years’ experience working in one of New York’s famed eyewear stores.

“When we moved to this area about 30 minutes north of New York City,” Katelyn told Eyestylist via Zoom, “we immediately knew it was missing a destination eyewear spot. We envisioned a place that not only had beautiful curated eyewear, but that would also be a cool place to hang out.”

The interior features reclaimed wood and timber and a refined use of colour

Despite restrictions of the pandemic, the husband and wife team opened the store in 2020, after a period of planning and design work, with Creative Director San Siguenza. “The vision behind Eyes on Hudson was an epiphany moment. The Hudson Valley, in New York state, is uncommonly beautiful with deep historical and artistic roots. Everyone lucky enough to wake up and see the Hudson River on a daily basis knows its breathtaking beauty. To see it is magical. To see it, you need to see. So the idea came to us that we can be the purveyors of vision to fully appreciate the beautiful place in which we live, and we should reflect that beauty ourselves as well.

Beyond aesthetics, Eyes on Hudson’s brand is rooted in being a local, family-owned shop for personalised eyecare, selling independent and locally designed eyewear as well as big name labels. “I have been fully entrenched in the independent eyewear world my entire career,” says Katelyn. “It was always a given that independent eyewear would be core to our brand. We are lucky that New York is rich with eyewear design talent, so featuring local designers has been fun and seamless.”

“When I think about what I love the most, I come back to our cohesive brand identity, which is rooted in the Hudson Valley and incorporates our independent ethos. It’s palpable from our logo to the colors and textures of our visual design to our digital presence.” Katelyn Rogerson

Interior: features also include industrial metals and leather furnishings

Distinctive features of the interior include the use of natural reclaimed woods, timbers and industrial metals evocative of the Hudson Valley location and its history. The brass and leather furnishings were added to give a feel of relaxed luxury to an otherwise rustic/industrial concept.

These details go together with collections of eyewear that represent local talent from New York – Lowercase, MOSCOT, and Moss Lipow, – as well as several designer lines which are considered particularly prestigious at this time such as Jacques Marie Mage and Kenzo Takada for Masunaga.

And now, and for the future, the owners look forward to the return to retail offering a space that is sociable, inspiring and full of music. “Probably like most, we hope the pandemic will come to an end with the distribution of the vaccine” says Katelyn when we ask what her hopes are in 2021. “We know that many people have rightly avoided retail and non-essential doctors’ visits, in order to stay safe and healthy. We are here waiting when they are ready to emerge, and we are so excited to share with them our curated eyewear collection and the Eyes on Hudson experience.”

66 Main Street, Dobbs Ferry, NY 10522, USA – www.eyesonhudson.com

| Eyestylist 8th March 2021

Bespoke eyewear by Coco Leni

Small-scale artisan production with sustainable ambitions in Annaberg-Buchholz

From a small traditional workshop in East Germany, the distinctive bespoke frames at Coco Leni use natural materials such as horn and wood and artisan techniques, creating one-off designs with classic constructions and rivets and pins. The custom shapes include classic cat eyes and bold rectangles as well as more offbeat designs.

With a production history that dates back to 1946, the new Coco Leni concept was born in 2015 under Matthias Haase and Arjun Sagar –  who wanted to revive the handmade designs of the past from this studio and make new styles. Sustainability they say is at the root of their work, which is based on the natural materials and hand finishing whilst also paying attention to planting trees (with GPS labelling) and reducing waste.

Above: a neo-classical round frame that can be made to measure: the style is called Laibach and was inspired by a Slovenian avant-garde music group – it is one of the more unusual designs in the collection

Emilie Horn at Coco Leni: an oversized oval eye shape with thick temples – a design that fuses old and new

Furthermore, with aspirations to bring the frames to a wider audience outside Germany, particularly in the current climate, the Coco Leni team have created a virtual measurement system comprising 20 different measurements to create a design. All they ask is 2 photos of your face and they promise shipment thereafter within 7 business days. Find out more about the frames and the small workshop and try on the styles with Virtual Try-On at: www.cocoleni.com

| Eyestylist 5th March 2021

LAPIMA, Brazil: Gisela and Gustavo Assis

Imagine the beautiful concept of an eyewear brand born in the hills of the Brazilian countryside, founded by an architect and a ballet dancer – the result is indeed as dreamlike as it sounds. Gisela and Gustavo Assis – the founders of LAPIMA, met at a very young age and rekindled their connection later in life resulting in the creation of a beautiful family, and an ethereal collection of high-quality, handcrafted artisan frames.

I understand that Gisela had trained towards a career as a classical ballet dancer for years and Gustavo also hoped to become an architect – tell us a little about the journey these incredibly diverse careers took to get you both crossing paths with each other, and eventually culminating in the creation of LAPIMA…It’s funny, since we were both little we had an appreciation for art and beauty. When we met, I had just quit dancing and Gustavo had just gotten into university studying business – not architecture – so, we were both quite frustrated. However, together we managed to deal with it and found other artistic forms to nurture our creativity such as going to art museums, visiting theatres, attending performances and movies together. Slowly, we discovered we had a lot more in common, and the results of that discovery have been our three children, as well as our fourth child: LAPIMA.

Sasha X Amber by LAPIMA – described as a shape that is “courageous and empowered”

Would either of you say that your experiences and inspirations that may have been derived from two such creative industries – as dance and architecture have been reflected in the branding of LAPIMA, or in LAPIMA frames in any way?

Absolutely! Movement is a huge inspiration in the creation of our frames; a model that does not move is hard for us to photograph, because the surfaces of glasses don’t reflect light fluidly, so without movement – the images would never get Gustavo’s approval. We love creating geometric images, using colorful sets and frames, playing classical music, bossa nova and rock and roll. We are never silent or still.

A huge part of your own individual identities as well as the LAPIMA brand identity is Brazilian culture and pride in Brazil’s vast, beautiful landscapes – what was process like in setting up your own production site in your home country?

We love our country, and we chose to be here and to raise our kids here, so to build a business in our hometown was a very natural process for us. Campinas was once an eyewear hub for many decades – prior to Brazil opening our economy to the world – and there are a lot of experienced artisans in the city. We managed to find them, learn from them, share our dream with them and build LAPIMA together. It is a great feeling to know we are also preserving the craftsmanship of our town and developing our own community by providing jobs in the process. LAPIMA’S office and atelier are in the same building and only ten minutes away from where we live. This allows us to bring our kids to school, have lunch with them, be at home for dinner and still be in the office in the morning and afternoon – that is quite a privilege, especially these days.

In a 2019 article W Magazine described your lenses as the “new old Celine” – a complimentary comparison to make in the world of eyewear, what are your thoughts on this statement?

It was indeed a huge compliment; we are very honored and proud of the work we are doing. To be compared to such an admirable maison is not simple, and it brings huge responsibilities, but we are determined to keep being original, creative and avant-garde. Compliments like this motivate us, and move us forward.

Nina Forest Solid by LAPIMA: inspired by the raw patterns and grooves of the Atlantic Forest

LAPIMA outsources their product materials from Europe; German hinges, to French lenses and Italian acetate – this of course enables the quality of the products to be among the finest in Brazilian eyewear, however, considering the growing demand for self-sustaining businesses and sustainably sourced materials – would LAPIMA ever consider potentially insourcing from Brazil?

It would be amazing if we could find the same acetate, lenses and hinges of the same quality in our country – but unfortunately that is not the reality – in order to keep the high-end status of our products, we need the best materials. On the other hand, we handcraft each piece in our atelier from start to finish; the artisans who are employed by us can continue to use their own art form without being substituted by a machine, as in big factories. To stay sustainable, we make it a priority to not keep stock, in our attempts to do so we only produce in small batches of product to limit waste; we work on demand and only start production after an order has been received.

You have both succeeded in creating a beautiful brand that takes ‘vintage’ inspiration and combines it with elements of modernity, creating unique, timeless and artistic frames – does LAPIMA have any exciting plans to evolve or progress further in eyewear, or perhaps further into the fashion industry, in the near future?

Thank you for those compliments! We know LAPIMA still has a long path ahead in the eyewear and in the fashion market, but this doesn’t phase us; we have a lot to show the world. We are excited to have recently launched our optical collection as well as our new storefront in Brazil. Collaborations with fashion brands are certainly on LAPIMA’S radar…

For more information about the new LAPIMA store visit:www.eyestylist.com/2020/12/lapima-shop-opens-in-brazil/ – visit LAPIMA’s website at www.lapima.com An exclusive Eyestylist interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton.