Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 17th September 2015

Colin and Josie Redmond, Niloca

Just as we’d thought we were up-to-date on all the most creative brands around the world, Niloca Eyewear came to our attention in 2013. There followed the discovery of Scoogle in Melbourne, and several chats with Colin (aka Mr Niloca) in Paris. With a background in industrial design and a fascination for all things innovative in eyewear, it quickly became apparent that this was another rule-breaking label with their own unique approach to spectacle-making.

“I married into eyewear,” explains Colin who first met his wife Josie at the optometrist’s where she was working at the time.” “We went out for dinner and found we’d both outgrown Brisbane. A few months later we were packing our life into a 3 ton truck together and drove 2,000km south to Melbourne. We wanted to open our own eyewear store and expand my 3D printing and design company.”

Despite tumultuous initial experiences, including the onset of GFC 1 in November 2008, the Scoogle store has flourished, run by both Josie, a trained optometrist and Colin, the designer. Collections found here today include Niloca, Theo and Anne & Valentin (read about Scoogle at https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/10/scoogle-melbourne/).

 

Niloca 2012, Frame within Frame
Niloca 2012, Frame within Frame

“From the outset, our point of difference wasn’t our product variety, our brand or price. It was our service, which started from the very beginning, before the frame or customer even entered the store. Exceptional service started with an equally exceptional design, created as a service to cater for the needs and wants of the customer. We didn’t need bells, whistles, bling, mirror and smoke to attract customers – all we needed was design and service. The rest took care of itself.”

Josie wears Niloca Phi
Josie wears Niloca Phi

Soon after, the creation of the Niloca collection began. “I dispensed with the traditional design process of computer designs. The $50,000 worth of advanced software and hardware I had used in 3D Printing parts for automotive, mining and science companies now gathered a patina of dust.

“Boxes of Derwent, Pantone and Rotring implements took centre stage and I drew new models by hand on actual paper and made prototypes using tin, balsa wood, foam and card board. It was a chimerical process of tactile sensory pleasure, live in 3D in front of my eyes. I’d been deprived of this for many years as 2×30” flat LCD screens desperately tried to fool me into a 3D environment of CAD models to the 4th decimal point. This new found enthusiasm for drawing was immediately rewarding and solution driven.”

By summer 2011/12, Colin had released his first sunglass model, Florna, named after the couple’s first daughter. The colours chosen were derived from classic archived Italian acetates, meticulously stored in an Australian eyewear factory 5 hours west of Sydney. Florna is a classic chic frame infused liberally by Art Deco lines, proportion and as the designer explains, “the most important ingredient – chromaticness”.

Hyperfocus 2015 / Niloca Rost
Hyperfocus 2015 / Niloca Rost

Several collections later came some Niloca “classics”, such as Hyperfocus, one of the first Niloca concepts I saw myself at Silmo 2014. Handsculpted in the Jura in France, this acetate design, in patterned and single colour versions, has a cutting-edge 3d form, that flatters the face, but in a rather unexpected way. Like an optical illusion, the 3d effect is apparent really only when viewed from the side, not from the front; it’s surprising, elegant and unconventional, all at once.

This time, our Silmo releases will hold more surprises, says Colin. “I’m taking the 3D form theme I started out with 5 years ago,” he explains, “and pushing it even further. In 2013, we released a ‘frame within a frame’ concept, something people were scared of, but now copy in droves. So in Paris, I hope to give Niloca ‘fans’ more to inspire them, pushing the idea of depth to a new level.” For more information: www.niloca.com / www.scoogle.com.au CN

| Eyestylist 15th September 2015

Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart

Eyewear Designers at Motorworld

Important dates to note on the October calendar are Saturday and Sunday the 17th and 18th – when major independent eyewear designers present their collections at Motorworld in Stuttgart. Stunning eyewear and an equally distinctive collection of vintage cars at the same venue is an ideal way to enjoy an autumn weekend! Over fifty unique companies – including Götti; Orgreen; Spectacle Eyeworks; Onkel Ferdi; Kirk & Kirk; Bellinger; Joel Lesca; Tavat; and Slav Nowosad among others, will present their latest collections at this outstanding international exposition of creative eyewear.

The Canadian design house Spectacle Eyeworks pays homage to history and heritage with the Cyrus (above) frame. Inspired by the power of the past – and connecting with the present – the temples of each frame are meticulously engraved. Cyrus is named after the Great King of Persia who wrote The Tablet of Cyrus. Designer Mehran Baghaie says: “My Persian roots and family, the visual richness and enigmatic nature of symbolism, as well as the freedom and equality of mankind, continue to be a defining source of influence and inspiration with these new designs.” www.spec-eyeworks.com

Tonky in Autumn Plum by Götti Switzerland
Tonky in Autumn Plum by Götti Switzerland

Swiss designer Sven Götti has an elegant, deft touch with eyewear materials. His latest collection combines acetate and Titanium, crafted beautifully into Tonky – in a glorious shade of autumn plum. The voluminous shape is remarkably slim and lightweight. www.gotti.ch

Bella by Bellinger
Bella by Bellinger

Fun details and dashing colours highlight designs at Danish company Bellinger. Bella is a bright tonal mix – colours that are ideal with autumn fashions. www.bellinger.dk

SoupCan Pantos by Tavat Eyewear
SoupCan Pantos by Tavat Eyewear

Handcrafted in Italy, Tavat has launched a unique frame – Soupcan Pantos – in red acetate and light gun metal, with great attention to detail – particularly on the nose piece and temples. www.tavat-eyewear.com Save the Dates! 17th and 18th October for Die Brillenmesse in Stuttgart. More info at www.diebrillenmesse.de JG

 

| Eyestylist 11th September 2015

A new generation of Icons

OG Family 16, coming to Paris

11th September 2015 British designer Claire Goldsmith, great granddaughter of Oliver Goldsmith, announces a new collection of Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses, inspired by details from the OG Icons, the collection that recreates some of the brand’s most famous sunnies. Focusing on single details from the Icons as a starting point, the new “Family” frames play with historic references whilst adding a modern aesthetic in colour and design. It’s the first new OG line in over 30 years.

London / Oliver Goldsmith
London / OG Family

The frames are named after streets, places and landmarks in London – including significant spots in the city that are dear to Claire and part of everyday OG life.

OG Sunglasses
OG Sunglasses

Friends, family and the Goldsmith children star in the newly released Oliver Goldsmith campaign which highlights the brand’s wonderful British heritage. “I wanted to cast a physical embodiment of our collections,” explains Claire, “with two Icons, two Family and two of our kids featured. The feeling was to be quintessentially British, classy yet a little off kilter, polished and always keeping up appearances a little.”

Primrose / Oliver Goldsmith
Primrose / OG Family

Oliver Goldsmith exhibits OG Icons, Family and Mini Icons at SILMO Paris from 25th to 28th September 2015. Additional SILMO information at www.silmoparis.com. For more on OG Sunglasses, and the OG boutique in Notting Hill, visit www.olivergoldsmith.com CN

| Eyestylist 11th September 2015

Autumn Eyewear Artistry

New Arrivals in Luxury Eyewear

New season, new looks, and new style interpretations – autumn pulsates with exciting fashion revelations in clothing, accessories and eyewear. Paris is the setting for SILMO, the eyewear show, and the brands featured here will be presenting their latest collections at the end of the month. Beauty, refinement, precision and technology are the hallmarks of LINDBERG, the multi-award winning Danish company. They will present the newest models in the LINDBERG Strip Collection, including the supremely elegant 9710 – above. www.lindberg.com

When Trouble Came To Town by Anna Karin Karlsson
When Trouble Came To Town by Anna Karin Karlsson

A favourite frame of Anna Karin Karlsson and her international clients is the seductive, expressive When Trouble Came to Town. Anna-Karin’s latest luxurious interpretation is in silky black acetate, liberally studded with Swarovski crystals. You can also shop for Anna Karin Karlsson’s stunning designs on line at www.annakarinkarlsson.com

XL2068 Charmant
Line Art Opera Collection by Charmant

The magic, opulence and mystery of opera have inspired the newest designs from the LIne Art Collection by Charmant. Hand mounted Swarovski crystals are embedded in the temples in style XL2068, and the lightweight Excellence Titan frame is light-as-air to wear. Worthy of a standing ovation! www.charmant.com

 

Stranger No. 21 by Adrian Marwitz
Stranger No. 21 by Adrian Marwitz

Congratulations to Adrian Marwitz, who has been named a winner of the German Design Award 2016. He received a  Special Mention in the category “Lifestyle and Fashion” for the complete Urban Strangers collection. The German Design Award recognises top quality products with outstanding design. Stranger No. 21 – sunglasses in navy blue matt Titanium – combines traditional and modern techniques, with ultra-light finesse. More information at www.adrianmarwitz.com

Cosmo Duo 19 by Benner Eyewear Design
Cosmo Duo 19 by Benner Eyewear Design

Daniel Benner enjoys mixing materials and then adding specific accents – as he does with the unique look of Cosmo Duo 19, that unites anthracite stainless steel and sandblasted black acetate. The distinctive frame features a reverse brow bar, and is handcrafted in Stuttgart Germany. www.bennereyeweardesign.com www.silmoparis.com JG

 

 

 

| Eyestylist 4th September 2015

Mazzucchelli Magic

Italian Acetate with Global Accolades

One of the first new words I learned when starting to work in eyewear was “Mazzucchelli.” When designers and companies mentioned quality acetate, it was Mazzucchelli. The company was spoken of with reverence, awe and respect. After many years of admiring the lustrous beauty of Mazzucchelli, there was an opportunity to visit the company’s headquarters  – with a group of delightful Dutch opticians – located in the charming Italian village of Castiglione Olona, near Milan. Res/Rei, who produces all their imaginative designs in Mazzucchelli acetate, graciously organised an informative and inspiring visit to the firm that was founded in 1849.

In the ensuing one hundred sixty plus years , Mazzucchelli has created innovative, colourful and technical acetate marvels, that enables designers to broaden their approach to eyewear, and to explore and expand unlimited potential in frames. Creating acetate is a complex process that involves many intricate steps.  The knowledge, skill, and experience of enlightened craftsmen have passed down their unique talents from generation to generation. The careful blending of creative artisans and sophisticated equipment produces astounding results.

Acetate in process at Mazzucchelli
Acetate in process at Mazzucchelli Photo: Umberto-Res/Rei

Even though Mazzucchelli has the latest state-of-the-art machinery, it still utilizes machines that were built in 1884. Painstaking and delicate steps are involved in acetate creations, and employees must complete an intensive training period. In addition, production requires special skill sets including mental agility, patience, and experience in order to ensure the colour and high quality expected from Mazzucchelli. The company takes particular care that the employees are safe and protected during these processing operations – and takes great satisfaction in knowing that the staff is passionate and knowledgeable about what they do.

Mazzucchelli orsi
The Better To See You…Bespectacled Bears welcome visitors at Mazzucchelli entrance Photo: Umberto-Res/Rei

Just as fabric companies follow fashion influences, Mazzucchelli has a keen eye on the trends, and develops 6000-8000 new colours every year, seventy percent of which are custom made. Designers often remark on the “warmth, beauty, smoothness and depth” of Mazzucchelli acetate, and it is one of the many reasons that they create frames in this material. Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei enjoys scouring the Mazzucchelli archives to find vintage acetates in which to develop his collection. Zanon once remarked that one of the reasons he started to create eyewear, is “because I wanted a more human experience. You interact with all the people involved from the manufacturer of the materials, to the clients…it is quite amazing.”

Acetate Triumph - Venere by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate
Acetate Triumph – Venere by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate

What is also amazing is the continuity of craftsmanship that begins with Mazzucchelli, and continues through to the eyewear designers – harmonious creations made by people who really care. www.mazzucchelli1849.it Res/Rei will be at SILMO 25-28th September www.resrei.com www.silmoparis.com  JG Top Photo: Bach and Mozart from The Musicians Collection by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate