Eyestylist

Frédéric Beausoleil, Paris, France

10th February 2012  “The significant differences with men’s frames is that they are more into technical details and new materials than women, which gives more importance to the look of the frame. Effectively, during the last ten years, we’ve seen men emancipate themselves – accessing and affirming a strong sense of style. Of course men are as interested in vintage as women! Even more, considering that Vintage men’s looks have always kept an important and “non-time-able” place in the perfect men’s outfit. Vintage is a shelter – a safe place protecting men from any bad fashion choices, if used with the knowledge of history.

Men look for quality, colour, design and material all at the same time – men feel the frame and judge it in their hands, sensing both the lightness and look together. The frame has to be equilibrated to reach the right customer. (more…)

Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, L.G.R. Sunglasses, Rome

8th February 2012 “Designing for men is easier for me, because I think of what I would like to wear. Usually, I tend towards designs that are strong, subtle, elegant, aggressive, classic, adventurous, and sometimes avant-garde. When I know what I am looking for, a men’s model can take me three minutes to design. Men are becoming more and more interested in fashion. I think that their interest is also very careful and selective about quality and exclusivity.

Men are as interested in vintage as women, because the joy of wearing a dream or attitude from the past is attractive to men as well. Men like to stay classic, they tend to dare less than women. However, men are very detail oriented, and play close attention to the overall finish. My personal favourite for men’s clothing is the Milan tailor Caraceni.” www.lgr-sunglasses.com JG

Sven Götti, Götti Switzerland

6th February 2012 “As a male designer, I find it easier to design an eyewear collection for men than for women. I can offset the wearer well and I can imagine in what shapes a man feels comfortable. Even if the forms now are greater for men’s glasses, the shape must never lose its masculine appearance. In women’s eyeglasses there are other laws – the shape can express more. The new large-scale forms in women’s glasses, I really like! They give the designer a lot of leeway. Men’s spectacles have definitely become a fashion accessory. And it is one of the few accessories that can really look great on a man. For each age, there are now great options for the fashion-conscious man, therefore, I am also convinced that in the future, glasses will have an important role in a man’s wardrobe. I have been designing men’s eyewear for over fifteen years. During this time, much has changed. Glasses have become much larger, and the retro style has become established. The trends change gradually, and not from one season to another.

We sell our glasses in over thirty-five countries, and I see that Italian men wear the most colourful spectacles, followed by Asians. I like subtle colour in men’s eyewear, but I think that the form and design should be the central element. Only then will the glasses be a durable and beloved companion. For men’s clothing, I like the Scandinavian designers like Filippa K, or Junk de Luxe. Simple designs with good cuts can be combined beautifully.  I’m also a big fan of the French label APC.” www.gotti.ch JG

Photography: Gilles Stüssi

Simon Palmer, Managing Director, C.W. Dixey & Son, London

3rd February 2012 Throughout the month, as part of our focus on men’s eyewear, Eyestylist speaks with men who bring creativity, knowledge and experience  to the eyewear scene, as they kindly share their ideas with our readers. We start the series with Simon Palmer from C.W. Dixey & Son.

“An increased awareness of men’s eyewear has certainly taken place due to the profusion of lifestyle magazines and online sites. Whilst this has led to many seeking grand brands, it has inevitably led to discerning individuals seeking less well known companies that create high quality, discretely branded products, that are infused with heritage and provenance. Yes, men are interested in vintage, but probably not as amenable to wearing it, as society expects men to be a little more conservative with their look.  However, the same principle holds that men will always be interested in timeless design.

In the global eyewear market, I think brand, design and colour are the main determinants for the majority of people. Sadly, quality, authenticity, and the ethos of the company seem to be valued less. (more…)