Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 6th January 2022

Fleye Copenhagen: a universe of joy and colour

The Copenhagen brand announces new state-of-the-art styles in their Silent Noise collection. Among the selection are four new frames created in HDCA – hard density cellulose acetate – a material with many special qualities

New styles in the Silent Noise collection are characterised by an impressive choice of materials, from carbon/wood combinations – a signature look from Fleye, as well as beta-titanium and acetate. The acetate designs use a hard density material which allows for the creation of frames with a minimal width and depth, providing a very slim and pared-back look while retaining a beautiful glow. Above: model wears the patterned version of model Elsie in the Silent Noise collection – the exquisite coloration offers a wonderfully fun and quirky statement

Model Elsie by Fleye Copenhagen – featuring the beautiful acetate material used by the brand

The frames released include 14 styles in total, the 4 acetate frames, 7 new carbon/wood frames and 3 new beta-titanium frames with subtle details. Each design is representative of the silent movie star Asta Nielsen and “her ability to create a universe full of expression without the use of words.”

Fleye Copenhagen: the titanium design Margit is subtle and expresssive – a beautiful frame choice for 2022
Stella by Fleye Copenhagen: an almond shape is feminine and full of character

In Silent Noise, a concept first launched by Fleye in September 2021, the design team was inspired by the lifestyle of Asta Nielsen. From an experiment with shattered glass as a symbol of champagne glasses, pearls and feathers and the different movements of the elements which created beautiful shadows and lightnings, unique concepts of design and colour were translated into designs and patterns in the eyewear styles.

A note on Fleye’s HDCA: FLEYE’s acetate frames are made of HDCA (Hard Density Cellulose Acetate) – a special, compressed acetate for ultra-thin, lightweight frames. The acetate frames can be created with a highly polished finish or can be sandblasted to a completely matte finish. Additionally, they can be formed in any shape while weighing extremely little. These features means that there is plenty of room to be creative with form, pattern design and colour combinations. 
Acetate is a natural and hypoallergenic material consisting of organic materials such as cotton and paper pulp. Fleye ‘s acetate frames are manufactured using a unique combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern technology. This requires great precision to create the colours and unique patterns. Find out more about the Silent Noise collection at https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/09/eyestylist-exclusive-cinematic-chic-at-fleye-copenhagen/
For more information about the brand, visit www.fleye.dk

  | Eyestylist 5th January 2022

Eyestylist Exclusive: DELEREX™ frames made from 100% waste lenses

Yair Neuman is creating frames from recycled lenses

London-based product designer Yair Neuman has created a line of frames in DELEREX™ – a material made from waste lenses he collects from opticians and glazing labs. “I always wanted to use the material to make frames, he told Eyestylist. “After a period of creating other design objects from the material I was able to adapt it to frame-making and the results are very pleasing. I now make dedicated DELEREX™ slabs for frame cutting and process them using a combination of traditional and non-traditional manufacturing methods. All my frames are made by hand in London.”

First launched as a mini collection produced in collaboration with Cubitts in London last winter (2020)., Neuman set about designing and developing more styles and tweaked the production processes on the way. Now the frames are stocked by leading boutiques including Gogosha in Los Angeles. According to the designer, Julia Gogosha understood the aim of the project immediately.

Glasses design by Neuman using DELEREX™

Sustainability is one of the core principles of Neuman’s work in general. “Working with recycled waste rather than using virgin material is pretty obvious to me,” he explained. “I am not going to compete with acetate on practical terms – the other values of DELEREX™ are more important in this project, even if the optician needs to work a little harder to adjust it. My target here was to create something beautiful in its own right. DELEREX™ has the most magnificent depth and sheen, it is something between mother of pearl and marble.”

Yair Neuman: DELEREX™ frame (2022)

Neuman studied design in The Netherlands (Design Academy) and in London (Ravensbourne) and first became involved in eyewear design at Ron Arad’s pq Eyewear. He has since worked in Zimbabwe where he started a social project combining local craft with 3D printed parts to produce frames with zero waste. He then founded Wires Glasses producing innovative hingeless folding metal frames. In 2019, the first project featuring DELEREX™ was launched with Cubitts. “We have been occasionally collaborating on design, production and my DELEREX™ range ever since,” he adds. For more products created by Yair Neuman visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/02/recycled-plano-lenses-for-design-lens-light-heads/ This feature was written by Clodagh Norton at Eyestylist.com – all rights reserved.

  | Eyestylist 3rd January 2022

Shortcuts to chic: 2022 starts here

New year eyewear with the ‘feelgood factor’ offers an instant pick-me-up for those who love their style on point – an Eyestylist Trend Feature

As the new year gets underway, the latest looks are inspiring with multifarious themes. Classical, timeless aesthetics will remain one of the big trends of ’22, with new specs and sunglass styles informed by the shapes of older , iconic ones – but fresh details and design twists will redefine the looks, and new factors will establish new rules for what’s hot and exciting to wear. First and foremost, a mix of materials from very high grade acetates to cutting-edge 3d printed styles allows us a wide choice of options for comfort and ease-of-wear, while the prevailing mood for creative design excellence, the revival of artisanal precision and a desire for more sustainable products with a greater lifespan are factors that will play a consistent role in what we choose to wear. Above – A little sparkle in a frame is elegant and sassy: Yolanda by Vera Wang with crystal details – part of a new sophisticated offering – www.kenmarkeyewear.com

Classical details such as the keyhole nose bridge are hugely popular: Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses model Hep

With people increasingly aware of the toll that fast fashion takes on the environment, quality and longevity in a fashion product are features that consumers want. Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses creates frames which you can own for life. The quality construction and elegant hardware replicate some of their earliest and most iconic designs, while the bevelling and finish adds a subtle twist that’s hot right now. Frames like these will never go out of fashion: www.olivergoldsmith.com

Feelgood eyewear: 3D printed products are comfy and long-lasting – as well as striking: Sadry by Gotti Switzerland

3D printed eyewear is a growing niche with high-end independent producers creating the finest and most innovative design ranges in this area. Gotti Switzerland’s Dimension collection is one of them, with styles such as Sadry – a frame with a sculpted or bevelled appearance and an interesting palette of natural colours ranging from mocca and berry to slate and stone. www.gotti.ch

Bassett by Seraphin Eyewear: a wearable modified square shape

Eyewear can be an instant mood booster, especially if the style offers a new look or a more modern,  smarter, or more professional demeanour. Square frames, such as Seraphin’s Bassett above, were a huge success in recent months and will continue to be a go-to shape especially where the rims offer definition. Choose a frame where the quality of the material and its construction shine through. Find Bassett and more acetate frames in the Seraphin collection by OGI Eyewear at www.ogieyewear.com 

  | Eyestylist 28th December 2021

Eyestylist interviews KEOPS optiikka, Finland

Eyestylist Exclusive: KEOPS optiikka is a small chain of optical boutiques (three stores) in Finland that curates their collections based on a simple concept: “style is a whole that consists of various choices”, eyewear being one of those choices. This is why the KEOPS range extends from ultra-trendy pieces to more low-key, classic options – ensuring something which caters to every individual’s style. Eyestylist spoke to Kari Asikainen, Chain Manager.

KEOPS has become one of the most highly acclaimed opticians in Finland, with three stores nationwide. What are the origins of the brand? Keops optiikka is well established as it has been operating in the business of eyewear for over forty years. After it’s acquisition in 1995, KEOPS was re-born as the brand we know today. I say re-born as the concept of our chain was polished a few years back; we made the decision to begin bringing in more genuine / independent eyewear labels and we refurbished our stores. The word “KEOPS” refers to the top of the pyramid. We have always recognised our brand as a high-end concept, not only in the unique assortment of eyewear we collect, curate and sell – but also regarding the service we provide to our clients.

SALT. Optics’ window display at KEOPS optiikka

As the manager, how would you describe the identity of your brand and your clientele? Our slogan – “Others talk about eyeglasses – we talk about style” describes us well. We see eyewear as part of the individual’s personal style; eyeglasses are an accessory that is in line with the wearers´ identity. Wearing eyewear that you feel comfortable with is more important than whatever is on trend. However, we encourage our customers to have more than just one pair of frames so that they can play a little bit with different styles. Our customers appreciate personal service, impeccable style and good quality. Being able to provide services through different channels is of course important, but we see that personal service is becoming more and more important as a counterforce for online shopping. Appreciation of good personal service is not an important factor only for more mature clientele, but customers of all ages look for a professional and warm customer service experience – one which we strive to provide here.

“Skandi-style” had its moment in the spotlight last year and I think it’s safe to say that moment has made a lasting impact on clothing trends to date. Are you noticing any consumer buying trends? We find that customers tend to buy less but invest in better quality; they also want to invest in themselves more. Personal service is becoming more important. Moreover, consumers tend to study the collections online throughly before even coming to the store.

KEOPS recently collaborated with SALT. Optics – a brand inspired by ‘effortless beauty’ and ‘human connection’ – could you tell us a little about how this collaboration transpired, as well as about the collaboration itself? We have had a very good collaboration with SALT., ever since we started working together in 2016. SALT. ‘s customer service – as a brand –  is excellent, and they deliver promptly. They are also really fun to work with. The product is perfectly in line with our concept, and the brand has gained a solid customer base among our clientele. We do trunk shows and window campaigns twice a year and the recent collaboration was related to our autumn trunk show. The collaboration also partnered with a Christmas giveaway campaign wherein one SALT. customer from each KEOPS store would have a chance to win another pair of SALT. frames; this proved very successful.

KEOPS optiikka: Kari Asikainen, Chain Manager (left) and inside one of the stores (right)

The pandemic we have all endured over the past two years – and continue to do so – has made a lasting impact on all businesses in a multitude of ways. How did KEOPS navigate the extraordinary circumstances brought about by COVID-19? The pandemic has definitely had a substantial impact on our business, especially in the greater Helsinki area and in other larger cities in Finland. As a safety procedure, we closed all of our stores for a few weeks when the pandemic started; our employees’ safety was and still is the number one priority for us. Disinfecting frames after a customer has tried them on and sanitising the eye examination rooms before and after every examination has become a new normal procedure. We have noticed that many customers have had to postpone their purchase of new glasses, which has affected many customers’ eyesight. Thanks to our solid, loyal customer base we have been able to navigate the situation pretty well and have been able to continue planning and organising for next year. COVID-19 will most likely stay with us for quite some time; we just need to find solid tools to run the business and maintain our safety measures at a high level, in order to serve our customers and protect our staff in the best way possible.

It clearly states in KEOPS’ philosophy that style is paramount to the brand, and so I assume to its founder – do you / KEOPS plan on developing this passion for style into a line of ‘own-brand’ frames in the future?  That would be very intriguing. However, we have no such plans for the near future.

KEOPS optiikka: a sophisticated yet minimalist interior style

Sustainability is an issue that’s importance only continues to grow each day. To what extent, if any, does KEOPS implement environmentally friendly and / or sustainable practices into the business? Sustainability is very important for us, and we are constantly developing new ways to become more sustainable. Luckily, we are already doing many things relating to diversity and inclusion as well as some other endeavours regarding our environmental and social responsibilities. Taking care of peoples’ eyes with our thorough eye examination and being able to find early detections of possible eye diseases, may even save someone’s life – that is sustainability to us, in its simplest form.

We are also against throw-away culture and believe that buying a good quality product that lasts a long time is the key to sustainable living. We are, among other things, in the process of cutting down the number of brochures we produce in order to save paper and to avoid waste. We are also currently looking into an innovative way of recycling the old frames customers return to us. Even our lab – based in Tallinn – has been built based on sustainability, with many innovative systems such as waterless lens glazing and the reuse of waste heat generated from glazing machines. This feature was written by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com – all rights reserved. To find out more about KEOPS optiikka, visit www.keops.fi – Special thanks to SALT. Optics and KEOPS optiikka for their collaboration in this feature.

  | Eyestylist 26th December 2021

UK eyewear – Cubitts has arrived in Belgravia, London

The store is designed by Child Studio, with bespoke display shelving inspired by Eileen Gray, the pioneer of the modern movement in architecture

The British independent retailer Cubitts has announced its latest opening in the heart of Belgravia, London. Located on 43 Elizabeth Street, the launch marks 12 stores nationwide, bringing Cubitts’ spectacles to the borough of Kensington and Chelsea. The announcement follows an opening outside London in Leeds, just a few weeks previously in November 2021.

Cubitts – Belgravia, London

Designed by Alexy Kos and Che Huang of Child Studio, the elegant Belgravia store draws influences from the architectural legacy of the master builder Thomas Cubitt, who created the masterplan for large areas of this part of London, and is credited for defining its architectural appearance.

Cubitts in Belgravia opened in December 2021

The interior aims to restore and highlight the original features of a classic Townhouse with refined and understated mouldings, architraves and cornices. The intimate domestic nature of the space is highlighted through a selection of iconic pieces of modernist furniture, art works from Anni Albers and others, plus a reclaimed fireplace, creating a contemporary interpretation of the classic drawing room.Bespoke display shelving in the store has been designed to reference the room dividers of Eileen Gray, the pioneer of the Modern Movement in architecture.

About Cubitts – Cubitts is a modern spectacle store, founded in King’s Cross, London, in 2013 by Tom Broughton. Cubitts is driven by the belief that spectacles should be transformative objects – a confluent fusion of design, function, and style. Each frame is made by hand using materials such as Italian acetate, Japanese titanium, German hinges and Indian water buffalo horn. All styles have the option of being optical or sunglasses and each frame comes with an artist-designed cleaning cloth. https://cubitts.com